Eagle

Correct.

Yep. Cracked flex plate.

You must mean ZJ V8 coils. The YJ was the first Wrangler, with square headlights and leaf springs.

For welding in floor pans you won't have warping because must of the welds are spot/plug welds in the "field" of the piece, where it lies on the frame rail and gets tacked to the flanges thereof. Where the edge of the pan is welded to the side sill, juts stitch weld it ... don't run a continuous bead, do a weld maybe an inch long, then move to another area and do another 1" weld. Eventually you can come back and fill in the gaps between the stitches until you have a continuous weld.

The green arrows should flash with the 4-ways. If they don't, you have other problems to address before thinking about replacing the multi-function switch.

I've seen at least one that I know of. The guy who used to run the (now defunct) Shell station down the road used to have one with a 5-speed and a plow on it for clearing the driveway in the winter.

CW, Vista has a utility called "compatibility mode" that allows you to run older software. I can't walk you through it, but we had to use that to get a language translation program to run on my wife's notebook. A tech support guy from the software publisher walked me though it. You can probably find instructions via Google.

It says Crown, don't they make their own stuff? I missed the Crown logo -- too "artistic" to register as information on my tired brain, I guess. Yes, Crown stuff is generally good. The only caveat is that I would not trust their hydraulics. The consensus is that aftermarket clutch hydraulics (of all brands) don't last more than 6 months, so it's better to spend a bit more and buy factory for the master and slave cylinders.

Who knows? Unless I'm just missing it, they don't appear to mention the brand.

What year?

TJ or JK? i didnt think there was a difference :dunno: TJ. Yeah, there is a difference. They widened the track when they came out with the JK, but they didn't beef up the tubes. That's why the JK's destroy front axles when used for serious off-road purposes. One of the 4WD magazines had an article about a year ago on a company that has a kit for retro-fitting the JK front axle so it won't self-destruct.

It takes a 1/2" x 20 standard bolt. The shortest I could find was 1", and I cut it down to about 3/8" so the head would seat on the valve body with an O-ring on it.

I would base it on the later XJ body -- the post 1997 style -- but with an extended cab either standard or available as an option. I prefer short bed. No lift -- the stock height is fine for up to 31x10.50 tires, and I don't need anything bigger than that. 4WD for sure, with full skid plates. I'd like to see it with a small, reliable diesel. IMHO a 5-speed transmission is plenty, so I'd probably hook it up with the NVG 3550. Dana 44 rear axle (with MJ 10" x 2-1/2" brakes) and the Rubicon Dana 44 front axle.

I can't even upload to Photobucket any more. I try to add photos to an existing album that already has photos in it, and I get an error message telling me the album name is invalid. Why is it that every time some web site gets "improved," it gets slower, clunkier, and more problem-prone? It's disgusting to contemplate that people are actually being PAID to create these problems.

23-1/2 minus 17-1/2 does not equal 4. It equals 6.

Your friend is wrong. First, there has been a lot of feedback on the NAXJA forum that Centerforce clutches simply are bad news behind the 4.0L engine That's point number one. Second point is, think about what a Centerforce clutch is and how it works. It's a drag race clutch, intended for high horsepower, high RPM applications. The theory is that a drag race vehicle needs a LOT of clutch pressure to keep the clutch from slipping under full throttle runs. If they beefed up the springs in the pressure plate, you'd get a clutch that's so heavy you couldn't drive it. So some smart person came up with the idea of using centrifugal weights in the clutch to allow a lighter spring set, but when the revs increase the weights are thrown outward and increase the pressure on the pressure plate. The higher the RPMs, the more pressure. Which is great -- for a drag racer who routinely operates above 6,000 RPM. My Jeeps run under 2,000 RPM at highway speeds. Crawling on trails, I doubt I ever exceed 1,500 RPM, and when rock crawling I may not even hit that. At those low RPMs there's not enough centrifugal force being generated for a Centerforce clutch to do any center forcing. Don't waste your money. Buy a Luchs and drive happily.

This is understandable. Jeep may have soldiered on with the 4.0L engine for a few more years, but for the XJ fans the universe ended in May of 2001. If the revised/improved heads came on-line later than that, they aren't found in ANY Cherokees, so for all practical purposes they don't exist. It is nice to know that there's a viable replacement to be found in junkyards, but as an owner of TWO 2000 Cherokees, it is not a nice feeling to know that I'm driving ticking time bombs and that the only question is "when" (not "if") my heads are going to crack.

Keep in mind that width is as much of a problem (or more) regarding clearance for large tires as diameter. 33s come in various widths, and unless you really need fat, wide tires to float over sand, you can probably do better and need less lift with the narrowest tire you can find. These days I think that may be a 33 x 10.50, but a few years ago at least one company offered a 33 x 9.50 that we called the "pizza cutter" tire. It worked great.

Do NOT have the flywheel turned. The factory service manual specifically says the flywheel has a proprietary contour and CANNOT be resurfaced.

For a manual transmission, it's called a "block plate." It is not an inspection cover, and it doesn't cover only the lower part. It's a complete spacer plate that fits between the block and the bellhousing. It isn't a part of the transmission and I'd be willing to bet that most junk yards would not include it when selling a transmission, even if they include the bellhousing.

They sure don't look like four sizes too big. In fact, they don't even look one size too big. What size does your sticker call for? IIRC my '99 came with 245/70R16s

If you still have the factory flares, measure from the centerline of the wheels/hubs/axles stright up to the bottom edge of the flare. Stock height for an MJ should be approximately 17-1/2" front and 20-1/2" rear. If you don't have the factory flares, I've posted the official factory method of measuring a couple of times, and a search should turn it up.

Don't misunderstand -- when my WJ ran, it was very enjoyable to drive on the street. Over 50 MPH it had lots of power and it rode and handled very well (mine had the optional Up Country suspension). The problem was ... I thought I was buying a Jeep, not a sports car. Aside from the engine, I also had innumerable electrical gremlins, the transmission had problems, the transfer case had problems, and the factory rebuilt both front and rear axles (miraculously making both of them worse instead of better). And it ate brake rotors. If you must have a WJ, DO NOT buy a 1999, and if possible don't buy a 2000. By 2001 they might have had most of the problems corrected. Maybe...

COOL! I was running short of targets! :banana:

Back then they offered optional ratios, so it's possible. But it would not have been standard -- you didn't mention that you had the window sticker.