Eagle

They used different coded springs depending on what equipment was on the vehicle, so they would all ride at the same height with or without options. It wasn't unusual to find different spring codes on the left and right side of the same vehicle.

That's the proportioning valve for the rear brakes. Many of us don't trust them and have removed or by-passed it. There are several threads on this site discussing how to eliminate it.

TJ coils are shorter/softer than XJ/MJ coils and would result in a ride height about 2 inches LOWER than stock. When lowering the front back to stock height, remember that it will affect the toe-in, so have the alignment checked immediately, unless you really don't like your tires.

I don't understand the question. First you say there's no split, then you say the hose that connects to the split was visegripped. What's the question?

The factory manual says head bolts can be re-used one time. They instruct you to put a dab of white paint on each bolt head so the next person to go in there will know not to try to use the head bolts for a third time.

Pete is correct. The LWB originally offered two capacities. If Jeep did it the same as the Cherokee, the tanks would be identical on the outside and the small tank would have had a baffle to prevent filling it all the way. (Dumb!) There was only one size tank for the SWB, which was in between the capacities of the two LWB tanks. The SWB tank is definitely not the same size, physically, as either LWB tank. Dunno if you could get a SWB tank into a LWB chassis securely -- I've never seen it and never considered it.

#2 was a Jeep show vehicle from around 1999 or 2000

Try unplugging the connector for the CPS and plugging it in again. Your '88 also has the C101 connector -- that's the big connector thing on the upper firewall directly ahead of the driver, with the main harness running into and out of it. If the CPS doesn't do it, try wiggling the C101 connector.

My 2000 Cherokee is "Patriot Blue," which is a pretty nice, dark blue metallic. The next year, Chysler came out with an even darker blue, the name of which I don't know, which is what my brother got on his PT Cruiser. I really REALLY like the super-dark blue on the Cruiser.

My amigo Jeepero Erich, down the road, is replacing the driver's side floor pan in his MJ even as we speak. We spent three days drilling out spot welds and cutting an intact floor pan out of one of my XJ hulks so he could weld it into the MJ. He has removed the entire floor from part way up the tranny tunnel clear across to the door sill. I asked about photos and he said he is taking them as he moves along, so once he's finished he has promised to post a write-up.

Correct.

Yep. Cracked flex plate.

You must mean ZJ V8 coils. The YJ was the first Wrangler, with square headlights and leaf springs.

For welding in floor pans you won't have warping because must of the welds are spot/plug welds in the "field" of the piece, where it lies on the frame rail and gets tacked to the flanges thereof. Where the edge of the pan is welded to the side sill, juts stitch weld it ... don't run a continuous bead, do a weld maybe an inch long, then move to another area and do another 1" weld. Eventually you can come back and fill in the gaps between the stitches until you have a continuous weld.

The green arrows should flash with the 4-ways. If they don't, you have other problems to address before thinking about replacing the multi-function switch.

I've seen at least one that I know of. The guy who used to run the (now defunct) Shell station down the road used to have one with a 5-speed and a plow on it for clearing the driveway in the winter.

CW, Vista has a utility called "compatibility mode" that allows you to run older software. I can't walk you through it, but we had to use that to get a language translation program to run on my wife's notebook. A tech support guy from the software publisher walked me though it. You can probably find instructions via Google.

It says Crown, don't they make their own stuff? I missed the Crown logo -- too "artistic" to register as information on my tired brain, I guess. Yes, Crown stuff is generally good. The only caveat is that I would not trust their hydraulics. The consensus is that aftermarket clutch hydraulics (of all brands) don't last more than 6 months, so it's better to spend a bit more and buy factory for the master and slave cylinders.

Who knows? Unless I'm just missing it, they don't appear to mention the brand.

What year?

TJ or JK? i didnt think there was a difference :dunno: TJ. Yeah, there is a difference. They widened the track when they came out with the JK, but they didn't beef up the tubes. That's why the JK's destroy front axles when used for serious off-road purposes. One of the 4WD magazines had an article about a year ago on a company that has a kit for retro-fitting the JK front axle so it won't self-destruct.

It takes a 1/2" x 20 standard bolt. The shortest I could find was 1", and I cut it down to about 3/8" so the head would seat on the valve body with an O-ring on it.

I would base it on the later XJ body -- the post 1997 style -- but with an extended cab either standard or available as an option. I prefer short bed. No lift -- the stock height is fine for up to 31x10.50 tires, and I don't need anything bigger than that. 4WD for sure, with full skid plates. I'd like to see it with a small, reliable diesel. IMHO a 5-speed transmission is plenty, so I'd probably hook it up with the NVG 3550. Dana 44 rear axle (with MJ 10" x 2-1/2" brakes) and the Rubicon Dana 44 front axle.

I can't even upload to Photobucket any more. I try to add photos to an existing album that already has photos in it, and I get an error message telling me the album name is invalid. Why is it that every time some web site gets "improved," it gets slower, clunkier, and more problem-prone? It's disgusting to contemplate that people are actually being PAID to create these problems.

23-1/2 minus 17-1/2 does not equal 4. It equals 6.