Eagle

Oxygen sensor. And I seriously doubt that anyone gets close to 30 MPG out of a 4.0L MJ. The very best my '88 XJ ever did was one tank on one trip when it was almost new, when I got 28 MPG. More typical is 18 around town to 21 or maybe 22 highway -- and I drive like an old lady. The '88 MJ typically runs a couple of MPG less than the XJ, probably because the aerodynamics are worse; the MJ runs around 17 to 18 in local driving, and 18 to 19 MPG highway.

That's the problem. I have no idea why, but it's well known that aftermarket clutch hydraulic parts rarely go more than 6 months, whereas OEM Jeep parts go for decades. My guess is the aftermarket stuff is remanufactured, and the tolerances are not held close enough. (But that's just a guess.)

If the MJ is the same as the XJ, the factory rear spring bolts are 14mm. That's approximately .552". In a pinch, I have used 9/16" bolts in XJ rear springs ... those are .5625". The Grand Waggy is a derivative of the old full-size Cherokee, so I'd bet that the springs and bushings were not sized for metric hardware. Use 9/16" bolts and see if that helps.

Did you buy a genuine Jeep slave cylinder, or aftermarket?

The old factory radios were fine as FM receivers, it was only the tape function that had a tendency to go AWOL. If you're just looking for FM tunes, go for it. Besides, you can always get one of those external CD adapter things that "broadcasts" to an FM station on your radio.

"They" above referred to XJs with the wood grain dash bezel. That trim also came on the early XJ Wagoneers. I had a 1984 that came with that trim. This truck is too nice to modify.

:agree: The MJ is a uni-body. You can't just bolt on hooks, you MUST add mounts of sufficient strength to stand up to the forces applied. The C4x4 kit has brackets that are near-clones of the factory mounts.

Looks pretty good to me. As noted above, it appears some dash trim was swapped in from an up-model Cherokee. The front grille and bumper look original to me. The rims and the rear bumper are aftermarket. The shift knob is aftermarket, and so are the cup holders on the center console.

Keeping it original is a noble goal and I support it 110 percent. However ... this is one place where doing so is to shoot yourself in the foot. The factory tape player was a horrible piece of junk and they mostly all failed within a very few years. The chances of finding one that works are probably in the single digits. If you do find one, use it a few times and you'll be right back to an AM/FM radio. For a trucj you intend to drive, I recommend an aftermarket head with a CD player. If you're restoring it for show, then keep the radio you have.

No MJs (or XJs) came stock with 235s. Early MJs and XJs came from the factory with tires ranging from 195/75-15 to 215/75-15, depending on model. Later the factory increased the tire size, but the largest they ever offered on the MJ was 225/75-15, and on the XJ either 225/75-15 or 225/70-16.

My brother and I have moved one around. I doubt very much that it weighs 495 pouns ... that would be 250 pounds for each of us, and I don't think I'm strong enough to think of 250 pounds as "not heavy." BTW -- It's "short," not "shot." When I saw the thread title, I could NOT figure out what a shot box is and where it might be found on a Comanche.

There should be no adapters necessary. Except where the hard ;ines come out of the metering block ("combination valve" ... but it isn't on an MJ) below the master cylinder.

Replace the right front turn signal socket. The ground id bad and it's backfeeding through the instrument cluster.

Nope. Not due to the high volume pump ... but I'm certain that doesn't help. I was first clued into this problem by a fellow XJ owner down-state from whom I bought a set of OEM alloy rims about ten years ago. He had the problem, and he said it drove him nuts for about three months. Once he noticed the collapsed lower hose, he scrounged a spring from a garage's pile of scrap radiator hoses, stuck it into his hose, and all was good.

My wife is interested in trying to initiate a small (very) sales operation, Internet based. Rather than offer one item at a time through e-Prey, we would like to grab a domain name and set up our (her) own e-commerce site. The problem is, I lost track of how to work on computers once we progressed beyond MS-DOS. What's the easiest and cheapest way to create a small e-commerce operation? (I know that "easiest" and "cheapest" may be mutually exclusive. If that's the case, what's easy, and then what's cheap?) TIA

Bingo. I can't tell if you are finally agreeing with me, or trying to be sarcastic. The original question was: The simple answer is that the manual tranny steering column already has a lock and there is no NEED to change it when converting to an automatic. Sure, if he wants to interlock the PARK function to the steering column lock he'll have to change the steering column ... but that's a lot of work that is not necessary. I don't understand why you seem to have a problem with my pointing this out.

His steering column, being in a 5-speed truck, already has a steering column lock that is fully functional. Unless he wants to have it interlocked with the PARK position on an XJ floor shifter, there is no need to do anything with or to his steering column. It's really a matter of his personal preference, not mine. He does not need to touch the steering column to do his conversion ... unless he prefers to have the steering interlocked to the automatic shifter.

You definitely need a second opinion. The timing is not adjustable, and there's nothing inside the distributor that would affect it anyway. And since the distributor cap does not attach to the engine, I can't understand how the cap could be "seized" to the engine. The vibration you describe sounds like a u-joint vibe. It might not be a bad u-joint. Is the axle original? If an XJ axle was swapped in, the u-joint angle could be wrong and that could create a vibration.

Very observant. That's your problem.

How long is he grounded for?

:agree: 'Zactly that

I can't imagine anyone wanting the column shifter. I certainly don't intend to use one when I convert a 5-speed to automatic for my wife to drive. I don't need (or want) to be forced to turn the key before being "allowed" to shift out of PARK. I also have no use for clutch interlocks that won't allow me to use the starter unless the clutch is depressed. As far as removing the key, the 5-speeds have the manual lock that doesn't allow the key to be removed unless you hold down the little handle thingie. Since I always park a 5-speed in 1st gear before removing the key, putting an automatic in PARK is no different than putting a 5-speed in 1st. Again ... no need for the stupid cable. One less thing to swap (actually, several less things to swap), and one less thing to break.

Does the 2.5L have replaceable guides? Or do you mean "seals"?

There is no sensor, not in the steering wheel (which is what the post said needs to be changed) or in the steering column. The manual transmission vehicles have a manually operated key and wheel lock built into the steering column. There is no reason whatsoever that can't be used with an automatic.