Eagle

Very bad idea. Now how far off are you at 30 and at 45 and at 75?

No, 1989 was the year they made a mid-year change from the BA 10/5 to the AX-15. It could be either. The only way to know is to crawl under and look. The BA 10/5 case is split vertically along the length. The AX-15 is split transversely into a front half and a rear half, with a spacer between the front and rear sections.

Very different then my other jeeps.I have only owned 91 and later...and some of the components are a bit different. I will try your suggestions...as soon as it stops raining. In both the XJ and the MJ, they went from an external slave cylinder to an internal slave/release bearing in 1987, then they went back to the external slave in (I think) 1994. So there were some differences, but not between XJ and MJ within a particular year. And none of the clutch differences have anything to do with whether or not the injection system is Renix or Mopar.

NAPA. Does Raybestos offer master cylinders?

It means they don't know what you have. The D30 ring gear is smaller than the D35, D44, Mopar 8-1/4, OR the AMC Model 20. 181mm = 7.126" ... which sounds about right for the D30 175mm = 6.890" ... Ummmm, don't think so.

Mechanically, the MJ is the same as the XJ. And the clutch doesn't care if the ignition/injection system is Renix or Mopar. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25695

Umm ... yes. Have you? I already pointed out that the 343 is more efficient than the 290. When I was active in the Javelin/AMX Sports car Club, there wasn't a 290 of any flavor (low or high compression, 4-speed or automatic) that could come close to the gas mileage I got with my 343 4-speed, and my 343 on a good day would run even with or beat most stock 390s.

The resistors in the resistor pack get hot enough to burn leaves ...

They'll usually go past it any number of times. The problem (as the original poster has alluded to) is when you try to RUN at the vibration point for a prolonged period.

Part of your problem is too much theory and not enough practice. An in-line 6-cylinder engine is inherently balanced, and any imbalance that is introduced is a result of manufacturing tolerances that allow a degree of mismatched parts being used in the rotating assembly. I have NEVER heard of an I-6 engine having two vibration zones, and I'm quite certain that there isn't one between 1k and 2k RPM. The natural vibration zone for the I-6 is, IIRC, at 6,000 RPM ... which happens to be above the redline on Jeep engines so, unless we're drag racers running modified engines, we just don't worry about it. However, you're worrying about a 5-cylinder engine, and there is essentially no way for a 5-cylinder engine to be inherently balanced. Rather than gross flywheel weight, I would start off by asking if the Merc 5-cylinder engine is internally balanced (i.e. the flywheel is completely symmetrical) or if the engine is externally balanced (the flywheel has an eccentric weight on one point of the periphery).

The cable either needs to be lubed, or has a kink or tight bend in it. (Or both.) The lube part is self-explanatory. If the needle bounce is due to a kink in the cable, what happens is that a tight bend causes enough friction that the cable can't turn easily. The lower end (the driven end) keeps turning and the upper end (the driven end) stops or slows down. The cable them twists itself tighter until it builds up enough stored energy to overcome the friction, then the upper end snaps free and the needle bounces.

Yeah. We know. The holes should be there and they should have weld nuts behind them.

Does not compute. Light weight does not cause vibrations, imbalance causes vibrations. A light flywheel means there is less rotating mass to keep the engine spinning when you try to engage the clutch from a stand-still, so you have to know how to drive a clutch -- well. That said, a light flywheel is normally used for racing applications, when quick throttle response is more important than smooth operation. They are not recommended for street driving, but that doesn't mean you can use a light flywheel if that's all you can get.

What year Cherokee? In general, if it's a 4.0L with a 5-speed it's 3.07 and if it's a 4.0L with automatic it's 3.55. There just isn't much variation with the I-6s. The 4-bangers had more variations, but by around 92 (or so) Chrysler had pretty much standardized on 4.10 for all 4-cylinder XJs, regardless of transmission.

It's not .35 "gage." It's .035" wire. And most inexpensive wire welders won't take .020" wire, they have a spool that will take either .030" or .035" and nothing else.

I don't see anything in your photo that matches your description of what you are asking about.

:agree: This. "Off" is off. "Defrost" is not off -- the fan is running, and if the fan is not at high speed the current is going through one of the resistors in the resistor pack, so that's probably where the smoke was coming from.

That's it: front, transfer case, and fuel tank.

Maybe it's because I grew up before anything other than commercial and military aircraft had disc brakes, but I don't think drum brakes are more difficult to service. I'd much rather do a set of shoes on a drum brake axle than do pads on a Jeep front axle. There are some newer disc (caliper) designs that allow swapping the pads without dismounting the calipers, and THAT would be easier. But the MJ doesn't have that.

For most drivers of MJs rear disc brakes actually hold no advantage. Their advantage is primarily that they shed heat faster than drums, so they are better for racing. Personally, I would never go through the expense and bother of converting perfectly good rear drums to discs for an MJ.

For a truly bolt-in rear axle, it has to come from an MJ (Comanche). The spring perches will be located on the underside of the axle tubes. XJ (Cherokee) axles are the exact same axles as MJ axles, bbut the spring perches are located on the top of the axle tubes. All that's necessary to put an XJ axle into an MJ is to grind the welds holding the perches to the tubes, relocate the perches to the correct location AND ANGLE as an MJ axles, and reweld. There are four possible axles you might find under an XJ: In early ones, you will usually find a dana 35 but you might find a Dana 44. In XJs 1991 through 1996, you may find a Dana 35 or maybe a Chrysler 8-1/4" with 27-spline (small) axle shafts. From 1997 through 2001 you might find a Dana 35 or a Chrysler 8-1/4" with 29-spline (larger/better) axle shafts.

"5 on 5" means the wheels (and hubs) have 5 bolts, arranged on a circle with a diameter of 5 inches. The XJ and MJ (Cherokee and Comanche) are "5 on 4-1/2", meaning they use 5 lugs but the bolt circle is 4-1/2". The Rodeo uses a 6-bolt hub, so finding a front axle to match AND be a bolt in for an MJ is not possible.

Yeah -- but those aren't the same wheels as in the first post.

I beg to differ - NV 3550 is best. However, it won't be found in any MJs as donors, VERY few Cherokees had it (2000 and 201 only), so it would have to come from a 2000 or newer Wrangler.

You replace the entire window and frame assembly, which IIRC includes the front vertical track for the large window. It's not difficult to do, just a nuisance. However ... as an owner of a 1988 Cherokee bought new, for which I paid extra for the then-optional vent windows ...DON'T DO IT! The operable vents leak. Period. They leak, and short of gluing them shut with silicone adhesive there is not way to make them not leak. My Cherokee vents leaked from the day I bought it. I took it in under warranty, and the zone rep offered to authorize the dealership to "fix" the problem. The fix? Replace the operable vents with the non-operable windows. No refund of what I paid for the option, of course. I politely told him to screw off, and applied a bead of silicone around each vent. No leaks in 22 years -- and the "vents" have not been opened in 22 years.