Eagle

Not exactly. The CCV tube connects directly to the intake manifold. That small tube coming off the rear of the valve cover is the suction tube. The larger tube at the front of the valve cover is the fresh air inlet, which is supposed to bring filtered air into the crankcase to replace what the smaller tube sucks out. What happens is that excessive blowby puts more air (fumes) into the crankcase than the small line can suck out, so the crankcase goes from being a low-pressure, suction chamber to being a pressurized chamber. In addition to oily fumes being sucked through the small tube (until it clogs), they are also forced back through the larger tube, from which they drip oil onto the air filter element. Then the airstream going to the throttle body picks up oil from the filer and that's how it gets to the throttle body. If the blowby isn't too bad, replacing the two lines and cleaning out the baffles in the valve cover may restore normal operation. NAPA has the complete set of CCV tubes for the Renix 4.0L engine -- I don't know if they have them for the 2.5L but they look similar enough that you could probably use 4.0L parts with minor modifications if they don't.

That's a stock Jeep air box, with an Amsoil sticker on it. Nothing to convert. I guess I misread your post in my first response. I thought you wanted to go back from Amsoil oil to conventional. Now I gather you were referring to the air filter. Just go to pep Boys or Advance Auto and buy a Purolator. The filter element in your air box is a stock filter element. It also doesn't look bad at all.

The "Power - Comfort" switch smooths out the shift points in the "Comfort" mode, and results in worse gas mileage because smooth shifting = slipping transmission. After the Renix era, Chrysler dropped the switch and hard-wired the TCU in the "Power" configuration for improved economy and transmission life.

Blowby. You can probably find multiple discussions of fixes using the search. Step one is to check your compression. If you have bad rings and are getting a lot of blowby, you can't fix it short of rebuilding the engine. If the rings aren't too bad, replacing the CCV tubing may alleviate most of it.

Cutting the front coils worked great for my AMC Javelin autocross/hillclimb car.

Amsoil is just a brand of synthetic oil. If you want to "convert" back ... just do an oil change. Just be aware that it it burns synthetic, it's probably going to burn conventional oil worse.

This would be for the 4-cyl (2.5L) ECU?

^^^ This. The factory sold an aftermarket kit that had all the hook brackets, minus the actual bumper bracket. Take 'em apart and you'll have the same thing. In fact, look at the photo of the tow hook kit for the XJ on the Custom 4x4 web site -- their kit is pretty much a clone of the factory add-on kit. Here's what the bumper bracket itself (no tow hook bracketry) should look like:

Just to be contrarian, I disagree completely with previous posts saying the usual cause of death wobble is loose track bar, loose tie rod ends, loose ___. It doesn't work that way. I drove my '88 XJ for an entire winter with a track bar that was so worn out I had over a quarter of a turn of free play at the steering wheel before it actually began to turn the vehicle. Those things being loose can allow death wobble to escalate, but they cannot cause it. The usual cause is wheel balance. Next most usual cause is wheel alignment, typically insufficient caster angle. You have already been advised to have the wheels rebalanced, and I second that. It's ironic that as the balancing equipment gets better, the people doing the work get worse. The result isn't even a wash -- I've gotten better balance jobs in my own garage using a 30-year old J. C. Whitney bubble balancer than some of the expensive and high tech "professional" balance jobs I've had recently from shops with the latest and greatest equipment. Also have the alignment checked, paying particular attention to the caster angle.

Premature rear wheel lockup is a possibility if you just bypass the rear proportioning valve and keep the MJ front distribution block. I can deal with that -- I'm old enough to have grown up decades before they started using proportioning valves, and I'd rather deal with too much rear braking than none. For those who remove the rear proportioning valve and then have problems with rear wheel lockup, THAT's when you look at the Mopar/Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve.

If that doesn't work, or you can't find them, what about taking the MJ springs apart and substituting XJ leaves for everything other than the main leaf? The XJ springs have less arch because they are desigigned to ride basically flat at curb weight.

I don't recommend it for the reason I stated: The XJ proportioning valve is prone to clogging internally and leaving you with NO rear brakes. My '88 XJ right now (as of last winter) will not lock the rear wheels if I slam on the brakes on packed snow. Same thing happened to a NAXJA friend in PA, and I've read posts by other XJ owners with the same problem. I have an XJ proportioning valve (the one I cut in half to see how it differed from the MJ distribution block) that came from a wrecked XJ. When I opened it up, I found that the internal spring and O-ring had been removed and the plunger had been set in the fully-forward position ... resulting in no proportioning. I have no way of knowing who did the mod or why, but the vehicle itself was stock, so it wasn't because of a conversion to rear disks. My best guess, then, is that he had no rear brakes and decided he'd like to be able to stop the vehicle. That's the best way to do it.

SporTruck trim level did not. Chief and Pioneer levels did.

I don't recommend this, but IF you elect to do it ... before installing the XJ proportioning valve in the MJ be sure to open it up and thoroughly clean out the inside. The XJ proportioning valve is known to get clogged up and leave you with NO rear brakes. I'm facing that on my '88 XJ right now, and my plan is to open it up and disable the proportioning function entirely. I would much prefer to have too much braking than none.

I haven't, but my friend has. This is a standard (adjustable) proportioning valve, it is NOT in any way height or load sensitive. This is a Mopar part but it looks identical to (and probably is identical to) the Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve I have mentioned in previous discussions. I have removed the rear proportioning valve from my '88 MJ and I don't feel any need for reducing the rear braking, but if I did ... this is what I'd use.

They actually had THREE on the old ones. The one for the gauge/idiot light is located, as noted above, at the rear of the head. The optional one to control the auxiliary fan (if present) is in the driver's side radiator tank. The one that provides engine temperature data to the ECU is located on the driver's side of the block, in the general vicinity of the knock sensor.

Those on the lower left were used on the early base models and SporTrucks. They are what have often been referred to as the "flag style" mirrors.

XJ form-fitting floor liners will not fit an MJ. The MJ has a raised rib running for/aft through the approximate center of the footwell area. The XJ never had that, so the fitted liners will have flat bottoms that will rock when placed over that rib.

You can fit 31x10.50-15s under a stock height MJ IF you run OEM Jeep rims. They allow the 31s to fit inside the fenders. All aftermarket rims have less backspacing, and on aftermarket rims 31s will be an interference fit with the flares and sheet metal.

Except that '87-'90 used the mechanical speedo and '91-'94 used the electronic speedo, so to replace the one in your truck without the PRNDL window you'll need the type that matches the year of your MJ.

Guess I'll never win this battle... :headpop: Sorry Marcel but this is not true. It's been proven time and time again... Sorry, but it IS true. The Neutral position of the transfer case on the early 231 cases disconnects the transfer case from the transmission but it locks the front and rear driveshafts together. After you made this claim the last time I went out and jacked up my '88 XJ, which I bought new and which I know is all original. I verified that the driveshafts were locked together and I posted it then.

Buy a leather cover from Pep Boys and spend an afternoon lacing it on.

My '88 MJ has a Wrangler (YJ) AX-15 and transfer case in it. The swap was done by/for the previous owner ... I bought it that way. The transfer case doesn't hit the floor and there is no need to modify the transmission to "unclock" the transfer case.

I'll have to look at my wife's XJ to verify (and that won't happen tonight) but I believe the factory trans cooler runs in series with the in-radiator cooler. In other words -- they used both when they installed the supplemental tranny cooler. Does anyone know for certain?

Jeep used an external tranny cooler mounted in front of the radiator on the XJs and MJs with the off-road or tow packages. The factory kits are probably not available, but you can get similar kits from all the parts places. IIRC the "name" in the industry is Perma-Cool. http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page04.html