Eagle

That is the correct sensor for the gauge No, it's not. Autozone part #TU108 clearly states that it is a coolant temperature "switch." That's for use with idiot lights. The listing also has a "related parts" area that includes "Coolant temperature sensor" http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/temperature-switch?filterByKeyWord=TU108&fromString=search&isSearchByPartNumber=true Problem is, if you click the link to the related "coolant temperature sensor," it shows one with a pigtail and it says it fits the thermostat housing. That's not the correct part for a Renix, that would be for an HO. In other words, Autozone (as usual) doesn't have a clue. This one, from Advance, looks to be the right one: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-engine-coolant-temperature-sender-wt761/5973805-P

Thread title!

With 31's - 32's you will want 4.10 gears. I tried 3.55 gears with 31's for awhile - it sucked. 32's will be even worse. Why don't you just get a set of "thick" 4.10 gears for the D44 - no need for a new carrier. Are you 2WD Charlie? I agree with this as well. You'd want at least 3.73's but 4.10's would probably be the best. I used to run 4.56's with my 32's, with a 4.0/AW4 combo, seemed just fine to me. 2500rpm at 70 and lots of torque off road. A good friend ran his MJ on 31s with 3.55 gears and he claimed he was happy with it. But his speedometer didn't work and he has a very heavy right foot, so there's no way of knowing how it would have driven for normal people. I second (or third) the motion for 4.10s. 3.73s are about right for 30" tires, 4.10s are right for 31s and not horrible for 32s. I used to run my '88 trail MJ on 31s with 3.73 gears. But the history was that I had bought the 3.73s with the idea that I was going to put them in my '88 XJ to run with 30" tires. Then I got the MJ. I already had the gears, so I used them in the MJ. What I found was that for 31s with 3.73 gears, the true overall final drive ratio (based on MPH per 1000 RPM) is exactly the same as a stock XJ or MJ on 225/75s with 3.55 gears. Okay for street, tolerable for trail ... but really not enough gear for those bigger tires.

Neither of these can create a grinding noise. In fact, generally neither creates any noise at all. Are the brake calipers free on the sliders? Did you by any chance replace one or both calipers, and possibly get the wrong caliper?

??? I have a 2000 XJ Classic and a 2001 XJ Sport. Neither has an auto-tint mirror. The XJ never offered an auto-tint mirror. What's this "newer mirror" to which you refer?

A fusible link is what the name implies -- a fuse. The purpose is to break if a short circuit or overload makes it too hot. Fusible links should not be bypassed unless you put a conventional fuse or circuit breaker in the bypass.

TDC (top-dead-center) refers to the number one cylinder -- the one at the front. There are only two options -- the piston comes up and it's either an exhaust stroke or a compression stroke. Both have a TDC, but the one we want is TDC on the compression stroke. You don't need more than two revolutions to get there. If the valve cover is off, look to see which cylinder has a valve open. For an inline 6, the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. That means numbers 1 and 6 come up together, with one on compression and the other on exhaust. Whichever one has a valve open is NOT the one you want. For the wiring schematic we'll need to know what year.

He'll also NOT have to replace the shocks. And he said he does mostly street driving, with some light trail use. Did I miss something? What tire size? That makes a lot of difference when choosing gears.

Y'all got me curious, so I decided to check the factory part numbers. They are NOT all the same -- but there are three different part numbers (excluding differences for tinted and non-tinted) just for the early body style, so a different part number doesn't mean it won't fit -- it may only be a difference in the tint color. In other words, my research was inconclusive. For whatever it's worth, here it is: Windshield Part Numbers (By the numbers): XJ 1984 - 5500 0552 (Clear) / 5500 0553 (Tinted) XJ 1985 - 5500 0552 (Clear) / 5500 0553 (Tinted) XJ 1986 - 5500 0552 (Clear) / 5500 0553 (Tinted) MJ 1986 - 5500 0552 (Clear) / 5500 0553 (Tinted) XJ 1987 - 5500 0552 (Clear) / 5500 0553 (Tinted) MJ 1987 - 5500 0552 (Clear) / 5500 0553 (Tinted) XJ 1988 - 5500 0552 (Clear) / 5500 0553 (Tinted) MJ 1988 - 5500 0552 (Clear) / 5500 0553 (Tinted) XJ 1989 - 5500 0552 (Clear) / 5500 0553 (Tinted) MJ 1989 - 5500 0552 (Clear) / 5500 0553 (Tinted) XJ 1990 - 5500 0552 (Clear) / 5500 0553 (Tinted) MJ 1990 - 5500 0552 (Clear) / 5500 0553 (Tinted) XJ 1991 - 5500 0553 (Tinted) MJ 1991 - 5500 0553 (Tinted) XJ 1992 - 5513 4793 (Tinted) MJ 1992 - 5513 4793 (Tinted) XJ 1993 - 5513 4793 (Tinted) XJ 1994 - 5513 4793 (Tinted) XJ 1995 - 5517 5090 (Tinted) XJ 1996 - 5517 5090 (Tinted) XJ 1997 - 5515 4994 (Tinted) XJ 1998 - 5515 4994 (Tinted) XJ 1999 - 5515 4994 (Tinted) XJ 2000 - 5515 4994AB (Tinted) XJ 2001 - 5515 4994AB (Tinted)

I agree with 91Pioneer -- too stiff for my liking. Will 99 WJ shocks even fit an MJ?

The glass shop I deal with also says the glass is the same. In the 97+ XJ, the glass is NOT held in by the gasket. It's glued in, just like the older ones. The rubber "gasket" is just trim.

Need a piston?

Looks just like the one on my '88. The tubes are oblong (squashed), not round? And about as thick as heavy duty aluminum foil? I used to know who made it, but I've forgotten. Definitely not factory.

What do the guys who convert to removable doors use? Seems to me I recall reading they use plain old 1/4" bolts (or maybe 5/16"?)

??? What's retarded about a transmission made in a country that has always used the metric system having a metric drain plug?

Correct. Sooner or later you're going to see, somewhere, that TWO-DOOR Cherokee flares fit the MJ. They don't.

Sword falling is not necessary. Self-immolation would suffice. ;)

I agree completely. I have the BA10/5 in my '88 XJ with 287,000+ miles on it, and the one in my '87 MJ is around 120k. Redline is good stuff for the BA10/5. The only problem is that the drain and fill plugs use a metric, recessed square drive pattern plug. Good luck getting them out. I have, somewhere in the bottom of a tool drawer, a drain plug wrench for an early-80s Peugeot automobile that fits it, but I've never seen another. Most people take a cheap (Harbor Freight or equal) short socket extension and grind it down to fit.

http://www.quadratec.com/

If there were a difference, the parts manual would list separate part numbers for the LWB and SWB brackets.

Start by testing the CPS.

I agree. The mystery is why they didn't also use TBI on the 2.8L V-6, which actually did have a computer-controlled carburetor. Years ago I had the local carburetor guru (the guy all the professional and hobby racers in the area went to for fuel delivery issues), and he was reluctant to even touch it. He did finally agree to throw in a basic rebuild kit and set it to default settings so it would run, but he said that carburetor was one of the worst ever used on an American vehicle.

Hate to disagree Eagle, but I have both. They are indeed different. As are the OEM bumper brackets. Disagree all you want, but the factory parts manuals do NOT show different bumper brackets for the longbed and shortbed. They do, however, show different brackets for the step bumper and for the factory tube bumper. Curiously, I couldn't find any listing for trailer hitches.

If anyone is parting out a 97+ XJ or has access to a junkyard that has some late-model XJs in it, I need a foglight switch to fit the 97+ (new body style) XJ. If possible, I would like to get it with a short (8" to a foot) length of the wiring harness attached, because that switch has little tiny pins and uses (IIRC) a proprietary connector. If you have one (or two!) please drop me a PM. Thanks.

A '97 Wrangler would be a TJ, not a YJ. If that's what it is, the entire axle will botl into your MJ, but I believe the front differential is a low-pinion unit, where your MJ is a high-pinion. Not sure, but I don't think the gears interchange.