Eagle

What are you using for the stroker crankshaft?

Consider that the line was probably closed while it was sitting. In that case, what could be clogging it? RUST. Just buy a 25-foot coil of 3/16" brake line, some flare fittings, and a double flare tool at Auto Zone and make up all new lines. Heck, I bought a used 2001 XJ with only 83,000 miles on the clock and the entire hard line across the engine compartment to the right front wheel was completely rusted out.

I think you mean to say "drill the brackets you have to match the bumper" or something like that? The Fey brackets are supposed to fit, but tolerances may have slipped. I would take a dreaded Dremal and just egg out the non-aligning hole until it lines up. If it's a complete miss, they yeah -- drill a new hole.

The front metering block on the MJ is not a proportioning valve. Did you follow the procedure for bleeding the rear brakes on an MJ to ensure that there's no air in the rear bypass circuit?

It depends on what you mean by "fit," and how much work and fabrication you want to do. THe direct fir options are another AMC/Jeep/Chrysler 2.5L, an AMC or GM 2.8L V6 (not a good choice), or a 3.1L or 3.4L GM V-6 out of a rear-wheel drive car like a Firebird or Camaro. Beyond that, it's adapters and fabrication for the win.

I have those brackets, and I had no problems with the holes lining up. But I bought mine at least five years ago.

Did you use just the TJ shafts, or did you also try to use the TJ hubs and/or rotors? Did you use the TJ inner shafts, or also the outer stub shafts?

??? This doesn't make sense. Rotor mismatches are because of changes in the knuckles and the calipers for different years. I've never heard that TJ axle shafts are different from XJ, YJ and ZJ shafts in any way other than that some ZJs had CV joints rather than u-joints.

Kerosene

GTE -- Are you planning to change the steering column to one with a $#!& lever, or are you planning to use an XJ floor shifter?

What cable are you referring to?

The '01 has a low pinion front axle. Since you need the front axle for a 4WD conversion, get the '97.

Dimestore-Chrysler recycled many of the option codes, so if you run a build sheet on any older Jeep you'll get a lot of descriptions that are for options never offered on Jeep vehicles.

If I get back from class early enough this evening I'll see if I can find the horm circuit in the 2000 XJ FSM. No promises, though -- the electrical diagrams in that book run over 100 pages. :Yike!:

Find out what type of sealant they used. From what glass techs around here have told me, the sealant for glass installations is Butyle, which isn't compatible with silicone. (However, a friend who is a VW tech mentioned that some shops in his area now don't use butyle -- but I don't recall what he said they use.

When you compressed the caliper pistons, did you open the bleeders to allow the fluid to escape as the pistons were pushed back into the bores? That fluid has to go somewhere -- if you didn't open a bleeder, I don't know what might have been damaged.

Time out. You say you changed the "pads," but everything else you mention (emergency brake, load sensing valve) is related to the rear brakes. Did you change the FRONT brake pads, or the REAR brake shoes?

Yes, the click is the relay. So your horn button works and activates the relay. The problem is somewhere between the relay and the horns.

If the gauge reads correctly when you manipulate the sender manually, I don't see an electrical problem. It sounds more like the float arm may be binding up or being obstructed when installed in the tank. When you had it out and were testing it manually, did the arm move freely?

I think the X was a mid-level model. Pure guess, I'd say the black was probably the original.

I think 10-gauge is plenty thick enough for the intended purpose, which is to reinforce the frame. If I understood the OP correctly, the problem he wants to address is the underside of the frame rails dragging over rocks. So he wants the stiffeners to act as sliders, and for that I think thicker is better.

And it's a good thing, or we'd have to set you out on a fence and use you for target practice.

Consider a True Trac in the front. Or do some research and see if the gerotor limited slip from a '99 or 2000 WJ Grand Cherokee will fit the older Dana 30 axles. Those were used with the QuadraDrive system. They work exactly the opposite of the XJ/MJ TracLok. The TracLok is a clutch-type limited slip. The clutches are engaged (locked) until the two rear wheels develop enough torque differential to allow the clutches to slip. The QuadraDrive works the opposite. The diff is UNlocked until the two wheels on that axle spin with enough speed (not torque) difference to engage a mechanical pump that applies pressure to the clutches, locking the front axle. I had a '99 WJ with QuadraDrive. It had a lot of other problems that caused me to dump it and go back to a Cherokee, but the QuadraDrive system was fantastic, and the front diff was totally transparent on pavement.

Great idea!

The fan circuit is tapped off before the starter relay, on the power input side. The starter relay didn't do anything. My guess is that you are correct in thinking that the aux fan has died and is pulling too much current. That happened on my wife's 2000 XJ. I have no idea why or how it could happen, but the fan was locked up solid.