Eagle

If you want to use relays, you will need four relays. In essence, there are four circuits feeding the blower motor. They go through a multi-position switch, but each position represents a separate circuit. Three of the four go through resistors, the high-speed position skips the resistors and delivers the full system voltage to the blower motor. To wire it with relays, you will need four relays, each with a fused lead to a 12-volt power source that's fed through the ignition switch. The output from each relay will then go to one of the four circuits feeding the blower motor -- three to the resistor inputs, and one directly to the blower motor. The outputs from the four positions on the dash switch will be wired to the control side of each relay.

But this thread is about the NVG3550, which is a 5-speed. And which has less overdrive than the BA 10/5 or the AX-15.

So?

If you have a 1988 Comanche, you do not have an AX-15 (unless it was swapped in by someone). The '88s used the Peugeot BA 10/5 transmission (with the 4.0L) or the AX-5 (with the 2.5L).

Not to belabor the obvious (although that IS my function in life) ... if you knew you were looking for an instrument voltage regulator, why did you post a question about a relay? We're mostly pretty friendly and helpful folks around this forum, but most of us aren't mind readers. I once tried to be one, but I sure didn't pick up "voltage regulator" when I read "relay."

Meanwhile: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pHFuhGgj6dQDfzyfFJH5z7NCDLW2KX3ABQgAJr3lBvM/pub?hl=en&hl=en&output=html With 4.10s and 33s, at 60 MPH the engine is only spinning at 1965 RPM. That's not anything to be concerned about.

I've never heard of an instrument cluster relay. What's the source for your information? I believe there is a fuse for the gauges -- have you checked the fuse panel?

Unless I'm missing something, it would seem that the ECU can be eliminated or indicted by simply unplugging the connector from the ECU under the dash, then check the draw again. If there's no draw, the drain must be either in the ECU, or downstream from it. If the draw is still there, there's either a cross connection upstream of the ECU, or the problem is in some circuit that has nothing to do with the ECU.

More than likely you'll have to destroy the bushing and take it out in pieces, then clean up the spring eye and press in a new bushing. You might get lucky and be able to drill out the bolt.

Dynatrac http://www.dynatrac.com/

How do you plan to use your truck? The first item you linked says they are designed for speed, not flex. Are you looking for flex? The simplest solution is to use the factory mounts. That also allows you to use the same shocks. What it doesn't do is increase the suspension travel, but if you're not going to be doing rock crawling that may not matter.

No, it won't. It has less unloaded arch, but it's a stiffer/stronger spring, so the weight of the unloaded chassis and box don't deflect the springs as much as the standard springs.

The MJ in factory configuration has the rear springs under the axle. The thickness of the leaf pack doesn't matter.

The factory service manual tells us how to measure ride height, and there is only one spec for 2WD and one spec for 4WD. Both specs are plus-or-minus 1/2-inch, but there's no mention of one spring type riding higher or lower than another.

I think you are correct on the CPS. I had the same thing happen on the '88 MJ, and it began immediately after the CPS was replaced. Too many other things happening in life to troubleshoot it, so it just sits, but I'm 95% sure that's the culprit.

??? Ratios: 1st = 4.01 2nd = 2.32 3rd = 1.40 4th = 1.00 5th = 0.78 R =3.55 5th gear is less overdrive than the AX-15, which is 0.72.

That's the factory transmission in my 2000 Cherokee. No problems whatsoever. It's one of the sweetest transmissions I have ever driven, and at 72 years old I have driven a LOT of manual transmissions. IMHO it's superior to the AX-15 in every way possible. I especially like the lower first gear ratio, and the fact that it's not at all balky about shifting into second gear (which is a characteristic of both the BA 10/5 and the AX-15).

No, you don't. The math is all done for you in the spreadsheet I posted a link to.

Maybe I'm just old (no question there) and dense (probably little question there, either) but I'm still not certain about your rear axle. "8.8" refers to a Ford rear axle, not a Jeep axle. It's a common swap for MJs, so I'm not saying you don't have an 8.8 -- but I'd just like confirmation that you know you DON'T have a factory Jeep rear axle under there. And if you have a 1998 front axle, what's it out of? Is it high pinion or low pinion?

"I love it when a plan comes together." Colonel John "Hannibal" Smith - The A-Team

??? What is this a response to? 4.10 was a ratio that the factory used with the 2.5L, but the Jeep factory didn't use 8.8" rear axles. We're trying to help you here, but trying to get useful information out of you is impossible. We can't help you if you won't answer questions.

I towed a light car trailer with a light car on it -- once. I towed it with a short wheelbase Comanche. It was a one-time event because I was moving the vehicle for a friend. Short trip, no highway involved. Scariest thing I've ever done. Shelbyluvv mentioned the trailer pushing the tow vehicle off the road, and he wasn't kidding. The MJ is just not heavy enough to be used for this kind of duty on a regular basis. Beyond that, although the back of an MJ has a frame, it's a fairly light duty frame. It carries a decent payload in the bed, but it's not made for pulling heavy loads regularly. A small utility trailer for a lawn machine -- no problem. A car trailer with a car on it? Not a good idea. The shortbed just makes it worse. As to V8s, look through the project discussion area and you'll find that a number of people have done V8 swaps. Cooling is an issue with V8 conversions. Also, the front end of an MJ is unibody -- put a big V8 in there and start pulling heavy loads, and I very much expect that the unibody will get twisted out of shape. Hence ==> Buy a Ford F250 ... or F350. You have to remember that the MJ is a small, might to medium duty pickup. It wasn't designed or built to compete against full-size or even mid-size trucks, it was created to compete against the S-10 and Ranger class of truck.

Buy a Ford F250 ... or F350

What makes you think you need a larger engine? The Jeep 4.0L is known for producing lots of torque.

The rear is an 8.8? Did you change it, or was it done by a previous owner? That pretty well rules out worrying about using Dana-Spicer gears, at least in the rear.