chicofuentes0224

Does it still do this after the car has warmed up and been running for a decent while or just when you start and the engine is cold.

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V ... /115975107

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V ... /115975248

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V ... 8/42027626

u got it

I was bidding. Six days ago when my max bid was $25. Then again, I don't need taillights.

Start checking every wire. Something probably melted together and it's only gonna get worse the more you drive it.

That's a good question. Someone please answer because I'm probably going to have the same problem when I do mine.

Wait are you talking about the two holes coming out of the valve cover not counting where you put the oil in?

No Ricky, he's asking about everything under the valve cover connected to the rest of the engine.

Pm'd you. Look under EngineSpecifications CAMSHAFT Hydraulic Tappet Clearance Zero Lash Bearing Clearance 0.025 0.076 mm (0.001 .0.003 in.) Bearing Journal Diameter No.1 51.54-51.56 mm (2.029 - 2.030 in.) No.2 51.28-51.31 mm (2.019 - 2.020 in.) No.3 51.03-51.05 mm (2.009 - 2.010 in.) No.4 50.78-50.80 mm (1.999- 2.000 in.) Base Circle Runout 0.03 mm- max. (0.001 in. - max.) Camshaft Lobe Lift 6.43 mm (0.253 in.) Valve Lift 10.29 mm (0.405 in.) Intake Valve Timing Opens 15°BTDC Closes 75°ABDC Exhaust Valve Timing Opens 59°BBDC Closes 31°ATDC Valve Overlap 46° Intake Duration 270° Exhaust Duration 270° Copyright © 2008 ALLDATA LLC Terms of Use

JT, let me know if this helps you. http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V ... 3/34853860

I didn't ask him about the valves but I'll ask tomorrow. I don't know if he'll know because he's a ASE VW mechanic, but I'll ask. Eagle should know. Let me look at my FSM and I'll get back to you.

Jt, I just talked to a mechanic that told me that you shouldn't try to clean it with anything because he says anything you use might fall into the engine, drop to the oil pan, get sucked up by the oil pum, clog it and cause you more problems than you want. That's his advive if your not going to dismantle the engine. Sorry. Hope that helps a little.

I think that if the coolant is squirting into the overflow bottle the waterpump should be working. He might have a clog in one of the lines or the radiator. I think you're supposed to run a garden hose into one of the lines to check. Don't quote me though because I'm definitely not a mechanic. If you run a search in the tech section a lot of posts have been put up about flushing the system and bleeding it. Good luck

Don't rush man, BLHTAZ said he might be able to get me one 2morrow. Thanks anyway for the help Jeff :cheers:

Jeff, where did you get that MAT sensor? I can't find it at NAPA or Autozone. Neither one says they carry it.

Ok, BLHTAZ, so do thbe rest of us get your discount too? :brows:

I'll take them if they are in good condition.

Jeepco I'm not sure about the 2.5 but the 4.0 the coolant temp sensor to the ECU is located in the engine coolant jacket on the driver's side of the block, underneath the exhaust manifold

If you go to Adam's website, greatlakesxj.com he has a 88 xj service manual you can download.

Yup, that's the hose ifixit8.

Ever since it's been cold my truck runs like poop until the temperature in the engine bay gets to a certain point. After posting about 3 topics in this forum, changing a good amount of sensors, and kicking the truck uncontrollably I finally figured out my problem yesterday. TIP for everyone. Work on your truck in the daylight, sober and when the temperature is above freezing! :oops: Well I was looking around the engine bay and underneath And I noticed there was a port on the air box closer to the front on the left hand side(passenger side) that was about 2" in diameter. I had always thought that was where it took in air. Needless to say I later found a hose coming out of what looks like my ex manifold that was smashed under my lower radiator hose. I pulled it out and used a generic hose and two clamps to hook the two up. The original was a type of fabric I think and had plenty of small holes in it. Some electrical tape, rubber bands and superglue later and everything hooks up. Guess what? The truck runs a million times better now when it's cold. No more stuttering and coughing and stalling and waiting 20minutes with the truck warming up just so I can get 3.5 miles to work!!! The original hose is 20 years old I'm sure, and no auto part store here carries it so I guess I'll be going to the dealership this week to get the correct part because I doubt the work I did on the hose will not hold. I'm going to pick up A MAT sensor too because that's about the only sensor I haven't changed. So in conclusion anybody having problems with stuttering at 1800 RPM's or higher untill the engine is good and warm, CHECK THIS STINKIN HOSE FOR HOLES AND A GOOD CONNECTION. It could just solve all your problems. :D I'll post back with the price of the hose this week or if anyone knows where to get it cheaper, let me know.

MANIFOLD AIR/FUEL TEMPERATURE Sensor MAt sensor provides a signal to the ecu that changes depending upon temperature of the fuel/air mixture in the intake manifold. During high temperature conditions ECU will compensate for changes in density of air. (TAKEN FROM 1988 FSM)

Oh, I forgot. The gear side swivels. Maybe that's why they are expensive.