chicofuentes0224

Mine are size 8mm straight to 19mm Yeah, that's what the MAC are.

Hey while we are on this subject. The MAC tool guy told me a set from 8mm to 19mm of their "gear wrenches" is $150. So I take it it's not a good deal? The only thing I can say is they replace it for free if it breaks (lifetime warranty). What do you guys think?

Hey that looks great man. What brand rims and size tires are those?

Aybody think this could be an ignition coil or ignition control module problem?

Yup, I balanced my tires today and it seems to have fixed the wobble. Everything else checked out okay except that two of the rims are bent. They are now on the back. My balance was off by 1 oz to 2.25 oz per tire. :eek:

pictures as requeted. Sorry this is half only. P.S.Sorry about the pictures. I don't know hgow to make em smaller.

I am. Sorry don't know if you were asking me. :oops:

Well if you guys figure this out let me know. I have the same problem.

Jeff what are yours.

33x12.5 or 33x10.5? What would I have to do for 12.5?

Got it. :D

Great! Now I gotta learn how to trim fenders. :clapping:

I have about 200 shot glasses from all over the world, from china to jamacia to argentina

Can it be done?

CW, you're talking about the chain in the transfer case right? How would I check that?

Pete, thge rear leafs suck . If I put any weight in the back the truck sags to the ground

no, it moves just makes a loud noise, thump, I can't explain it right .I just forgot what it does exactly but dang it doesn't sound good. :oops:

You don't need gills. Everything is either reptillian, amphibious, or hispanic! :D

Any thing I should look for. It does it even in slippery conditions(snow) when I start off from a light or stop sign, then goes away. All tires are the same size. Could the allignment or balance of the tires be off causing this to happen. I also get a wobble at about 40 MPH. Trackbar and front u-joints have been replaced.

Riceman has one in the projects section.

Bastard Floridians! (Just kidding I'm orginally from MIAMI :D )

BLHtaz. I don't think I read that post right. Does he need our old injectors back? I just changed mine last week.

FX are you talking about the O2 heater relay?

OK , now I gotta find a propane torch. Thank you sir. Any other suggestions?

Well three months and some parts later I still have this problem. Here's the differnce though. I now notice that if I let the truck warm up for about 15 to 20 minutes I no longer have this problem or it's barely noticeable. New parts include: Fuel filter, plugs, wires, TPS, oxygen sensor, distributer cap, rotor, CPS, CTS, knock sensor, 19lb injectors. So here's what I'm thinkin. There is something in that engine bay that expands when it gets hot enough and therefore creates a tight seal not giving the stupid renix sensors mixed signals. So maybe an airleak somewhere? I though that maybe it was the bolts to the intake manifold but all those are all on tight nowand no change. I changed my ccv lines but oil still leaks from the new grommets leading me to believe that maybe this is causing the problem and the grommets expand (especially the one going from the back of the valve cover to the intake manifold) sealing off the air leaking and creating the necessary vaccum? Maybe? Next theory is that the piston rings are shot completely and because it is cold do not create the necessary compression untill they warm up completly and expand forming a tight seal with the cylinder walls? However compression tests show that all cylinders are good except #1 is a little lower. Of course, there is still the MAP sensor, EGR, MAT sensor that ned to be changed, but if these were faulty it would stutter all the time and not get any better as the temperature in the bay warms up. So kids, any ideas? PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!