jtdesigns

It has been found they won't. The why is a little more complicated. The simple answer is it wasn't designed for it. I think the rods like to crap out. yeah after thinking about it.. hell with all that just gut it and drop a csb and call it mean.

yeah, but they're 19lb/hr injectors... same as a renix 4.0 injector no change at all ok I thought they had a larger flow. I wish I knew more about these systems to help you out.... sorry

didn't you put ford 5.0 injectors in?

turning on when in motion is pretty cool... I bet thats only on mj's with abs because where is the signal of forward motion coming from?

Jesus, I just went to the grocery store and come back to this !! I don't see why the stock internals couldn't handle say 6 to 10 psi's, now remapping the renix for better fuel curves would be a lil tricky, but if you were going to go force induction then I'd suspect youd have already swapped to the HO head and ecu. Someone may be able to run a piggyback controller to change parameters in the fuel curve. I wish I knew more about the 4.0 cause I bet a fi i6 would be a torque monster. SC'ed or boosted.

Anybody ever toyed with this idea?

It sounds alot more technical then it really is.. I always thought the running lights weren't as bright as regular headlights that why I was saying drop the voltage,, theres probably a million different ways to do it. I guess its all according to what you want. If you grind/drill a hole into the rear of your headlight and run a few wires to a light bulb( say the same kinda bulb used in the parking light ) from s switched source inside your light. To me, that would be the simplest way to do it and have it workout correctly, instead of using the headlight filaments.

I was thinking that was what it was for but I've never ran across anything like that before. I would think it would go through the headlight relay,,,,,not have a separate circuit for it... anywho's not a major problem...

I bet they use the bright lights because you don't use brights as much as you would lowbeams,( on an everyday driver) The bad thing with using something like resistants to drop voltage it would change voltage as the system changed voltage. like when you were sitting with the engine off it would be 12V with it running more like 13/14V .. You could go with a variable resister but that goes a lot deeper into logic circuits. If you could find a 12 source that was only present while the engine was running (eagle??) you could tap into that as the relays signal. That would keep the running lights off until the engine was running.

Hey thanks tj,,, I was racking my brain trying to figure it out.. flash to pass, huh,,,,, I don't get it. So it goes to the head lights, and lets you flick you lights?? I wonder why that would need a fuse just for that and not go thorough the headlight relay? I bet it has something to do with the 20 year old switch it uses,, 100% the same type of switch as my 76 jeep cj-7s switch had.. Is there a relay that goes with it, separate from the main headlight relay? So,, if that fuse is out I won't be able to pull the bright selector on the column with the headlights off to make the lights flash on bright? Hummmm...... Let me check it out right quick.

I like to use a paint paddle with 80 grit wrapped around it as a block on filler. A stright line sander is way faster but its easy to sand too much if your not patient. When sanding filler always spray you a mist of flat black so you can tell where the filler is high or low.

you could use a resister to drop voltage down to say 7 volts then wire that into your lowbeams,, switched by a relay that turns on with the switch, then you'd need another relay to turn the 7 volt source off when you turn your lights on.. I believe you'd need a 15 omh resister to drop voltage to 7V or one 30omh to both lights.

I have a fuse thats labeled fl/pass on the fusebox.. what does that goto?

plus if it does leak it won't kill your fuse box!!!! I think I'm going try this till I muster up the cash for a new m/c.

I've seen kits where you drill a hole in the rear of your light and place a small bulb inside that turn on with the switch. Mostly on imports (hondas) though.

There called porta-powers,,,, most have a hand pump and different length rods, they also have a wedge the you place in tight places and it spreads apart pushing whatever out.

search a paintless dent repair around where you are. they still drill holes but where you can't see them, and use special rods and spoons to push dents out from the back. another route you could go is to find a body panel suction cup for dents. its a big suction cup with a pump on the handle that lets you pull the dent out. If you want it right... then take a grinder and take the paint down to the metal around the dent. find a body man/ shop that has a magna-spot; it welds a stud on the metal and then you use a special slide hammer to pull the dent out, this way you have to seal,prime and paint though. but its the right way to do it. I think I read somewhere that you were in the service... get with your chain and find the auto crafts garage, according if you have one on your post,base they might have the tools to do all of that.

:cry:

Have you checked your shocks? does it thump when you hit bumps?

those coils fit the renx too?

I have read and searched and read some more..... Can somebody tell me in Barney style... I am going to rebuild the rear brakes, and I am so confused about the whole rear adjustment value, prop value, ?metering value? deal I can't see straight. If I replace the rear value (the one with the rod to the rear end) do I have to replace a hard line? or make another line going to the rear brakes? Do I replace the other value in the engine bay too?? I can't find a good XJ to rob parts from so I'll just napa it or something. I have bled and bled till I bled.... I was using a hand vac pump too.... still AIR I'm going to replace the soft line in the rear with rubber and the two front lines with s.s. Going to replace all the rear springs,shoes, and wheel cylinders. Going to replace one parking brake cable on left, and get a new spring for my e-brake and a lil rubber bumper too. The fronts are going to get new pad + the s.s. lines. I think I may need a new booster and M/C, but I'm going to have wait for that one. When I bled it; I zip-tied the rear lever to the 2 o'clock pos ( looking from rear) and the rod is gone. So, what should I do about these values????? Can someone give me a diagram (even if its drew up in paint or drawn up on paper and scanned ) of all the brake components.....pleaseeeee :bowdown: If I can see it on paper I can better arm myself. I really don't want to make a new line and send it to the back,but .... I will if I have to. Can I just make a thru threaded block to bypass that lever value???? I'm in my 2nd semester of cnc classes and we have some bad @$$ Haas mills and lathes. I can make anything within reason. Another thing is the rear drums,,,, whats the measurement till their crap? Thanks,,,,,,jt

Could be more than one problem,,, How would you check the egr value?

Wouldn't a leak on the TB cause a raised idle? Sounds plausible with it getting warm and closing the gap though,

Did you have to make mods to the peddle assy for it to fit or did it go right in??

Cooking oil?? I need a little explanation about this one. That isn't one of those sawdust in the tranny tricks is it? If it is I Love It!! lol But for real tell me how that works..