jtdesigns

Hey JohnQ think you can get a good picture of the drive shaft and axle flange?

From what I have measured on the Isuzu 44 you'll have to cut and reweld the spring perches 1.5" out from center . The springs on the Rodeo sit at 40" and from what DirtyComanche said the jeeps are 43" I really don't know about the flange or drive shafts mating. Getting crafty with brake lines and e-brake cable will have to be worked out. I don't know enuff about the jeep to say go/ no go. I don't even have a mj manual to reference. If I remember right the measurement from backing plate to backing plate was 56.25" I don't have the resources to give accurate answers just the measurements from hands on.

Well yeah I guess you right. I don't know enuff about either so..... but the flange does look pretty strong though. well the strap style the dana's have on our jeeps tend to wallow out, but can be replaced with u-bolt style instead... but DAMN that flange takes the cake its the same style the humvees have its a real b^#*h to install. trying to keep the needle bearings in the cap and fitting it in the flange on the ujoint

I was thinking about those vent windows today at school. Just happened to be two xj's parked near me. One was an older xj I'm guessing 91 (the same model as one I had before) the other was a newer model maybe a 98 or 2k. I saw the door on the newer jeep didnt have the 1/4 glass at all. will those doors fit the 89 mj's? It still had the same body lines so just wondering. thanks, jt they'll fit just fine but the striker bolt for the latch isnt a bolt like our doors its a loop style. so that has to be switched over as well, but i do think its a fairly easy swap just a little bit of creative thinking not a hard swap either huh... I want to thank everybody for the information and suggestions. I'm not a complete idiot about wrenches just never really worked with these trucks b4. Kinda sad because I've driving them in the past.

Well yeah I guess you right. I don't know enuff about either so..... but the flange does look pretty strong though.

I was thinking about those vent windows today at school. Just happened to be two xj's parked near me. One was an older xj I'm guessing 91 (the same model as one I had before) the other was a newer model maybe a 98 or 2k. I saw the door on the newer jeep didnt have the 1/4 glass at all. will those doors fit the 89 mj's? It still had the same body lines so just wondering. thanks, jt

I've worked with the lt-1 before. You can find a wiring harness at a few different places. http://www.tpis.com/ http://www.lt1swap.com/ http://www.lt1350.com/ Mine was a 97 and out of a burnt firebird. your lucky your working with a 95!! The wireing harness is way easier to find.

nah its 2wd, not a big problem. I could always get a wheel adapter for the front if I ever wanted to have the same wheels. Plus the the wheel adapter would even out the differences from the rear being a few inches wider. I just think this will be a easy way to gain rear disc breaks.

Measured the perches and snapped a few pictures today of the rodeo. The pearches were 40" +/- 1/4" from the center of the leafs. That confirms having to cut and weld the perches on the Isuzu 44. Also took a picture of the flange. doesn't look like it would be to hard to make it fit the jeeps. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

My xj's didn't leak from what I can remember. I was worried about easy access more then anything. about the line locs leaking.... lol ,,,,,,,everything leaks on this truck!!! 8)

Could just plumb in a line loc. I know the p-brake pedal mech on the mj is shot . it doesnt even come all the way back up, like a spring is broke or something, and you have to reach down and pull the release because the cable is broken, but for 200 dollars I'm not bitching to much. I haven't really did anything to the truck just plugs, wires, and cleaned a few fuses to get brake lights back working. The clutch cyl os leaking from the rear seal and did a little damage to the fuse block. I'm sure to ask all of you a million questions about this truck!!! I had a 91 or 92 xj long time ago the only thing I ever had to do to it was some work on the cooling system, the coolant bottle was leaking air IIRC, and was overheating. oh yeah and a cj-7 but we won't go to what all that thing had wrong with it. Thinking about the xj.... it had vent windows and this truck doesn't. did any mj's have vent windows , or the quarter glass that would fold out?

I'm going to measure the rodeo rear tomorrow. I'm going to go work on this jeep friday. Ill get some pictures of this jeep so everyone can better understand what I'm working with. Thanks , you'da'man!

Thanks DC from BC sounds pretty much a simple swap then,, I guess I could get a wheel adapter for the front; might give me the same width up there too. what is the companion flange? is that the flange on the rear of the drive shaft?

found this .. 3.73-down carrier with 4.30 gears. 3.73 down carrier means the input flange is 3.73" lower? I keep hearing that 3.55 gears are best for the mj, 4.30 shouldn't be that bad if not doing alot of interstate driving right. Most worried about the spring perches and rear brakes.. just swap everything over, lines too. If I get you guys some measurements you think you can confirm the jeep 44 perches and length?

Dana 44 out of a 96 Rodeo into a mj? Rear disc's , lengths, funkyflange(??) Drive shaft mods going to be need with this you think? I can get measurements tomorrow if needed.

I think that question belongs in a new thread... answer is yes, but with work. I don't know any specifics about the axle, but you can pretty much make any axle fit so long as you have the parts, time, and tools. I guess I shouldn't hi-jacked this thread huh... Regards to the OP. I'll start a new thread because alot of ya'lls ( I'm from NC we say ya'll) replies are pretty intense. I may need more details.

I have access to a rodeo dana 44 with rear disc. Will this swap in a 2wd mj?

JohnQ what kind of rims are on your blue truck?

Sorry, I'm sure I came off pretty abrasive and thats not the way I meant it. If your insurance is a go then you don't have to worry about it. For the current laws of etesting (unless something changed I don't know about within the last few days) is that the rolling year exemption is no longer so. Everyvehicle 1988 and newer will always have to be tested. 1987 and older are exempt and there are future plans to have that changed to 1980 and older. Your absolutely right, the 4.2L wasnt offered so it will most definately be a hotrod class - THIS DOES NOT MAKE IT EXEMPT. Hotrod classifications give it higher limits but not an exemption. I had an 1989 Yj with first a built 4.2L bored out that I had classified as Hotrod, then a 4.3L chev v6 in it also classified as hotrod. For example, it made one limit go form 120ppm to 300ppm *unfortunately I still failed with the 4.2L. There is also newer stipulations I'm not 100% sure about but the idea they're trying to go with is you are not supposed to be able to swap in older engines and have a hotrod classifications as you are to meet your vehicles emmisions laws. But this shouldnt apply to you from my understanding of the law. Despite legality issues.... i would 'buy' an 87 manche and swap over all my components to that.... wink wink...nudge nudge... and it could even look just like yours does now..... Here in NC it's '96 below (well I guess '97 now) - no sniff test has to be done.

On a scale of 1 to 10 how hard was it to fit in, and why'd you not use the front proportional valve?

So your going for the xj kit? If I ever need parts can I ask for the xj's ones? I remember reading that the fronts are the same,, I don't know if it matters if my truck is 2wd or 4 though. The reason I was thinking Astro vans booster is they're pretty cheep. Might be a pain but not on the pockets..

Man don't tell me that!!! That sounds very plausible though. If a master cylinder was pushing past the seals wouldn't it leak? I'll check it out and bleed those boogers.. Keep it stupid simple for now. They have no resistant when pushing them. they goto the floor and barely catches near the floor, can pump them up but still no height on the pedal. I checked the check value it was good, had good vacuum from manny. I read a thread here somewhere that I could do an air pressure check on the booster, and the boosters were crap. What all has to be done to do a pressure check on that thing? I also read something about the rear prop value. whats the deal with that? better on or off? Thanks,jt

Working on this ole Jeep mj, it's going to need a brake booster(read; NO BRAKES) I was wondering if I could plumb a hydro booster instead of the vacuum one. Any thoughts on this, good, bad , ugly?? Anyone ever worked with hydro boosters before? I was thinking getting one off a 94 Astro van with the matching M/C. I believe the power steering pump will cover the flow. Maybe someone could chime in who has a milemarker hydro winch about their flow. The brakes work only when the pedal is down to the floor. I can pump them and they work so-so but when crusin and needing to stop quick I'm better off cutting a hole in the floor and Flintstoning it!! Thanks in advanced for any suggestions or comments! jt

There's a schreder fitting on the fuel rail towards the front of the engine. It's pretty standard, in most gauges for that crap will pop right on. I didn't know exactly where the value was..Thanks... I'm going to advanced and see if they have a gauge I can use. I'll check fuel pressures this Thursday and report the pressure. What should it be?

forgot to mention the trusty OLE CHEATER PIPE!!! used to prop your hood up until you need to bust your breaker bar into pieces. also used right before the E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR.