ScottJeep

Think I am going to actually go with THESE http://www.ebay.com/itm/191326467479?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Good price. Perfect size @ 1" Since there is a Summit close by (~45mins away ) I should have them in like two days after ordering.

Thanks for the lead..... I think I've found the winner! http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-5536-711-206.aspx?year=1989&make=Jeep&model=Comanche&parttype=Wheel%20Nut&origin=YMM Looks VERY close to the ones that I have that are working well. Thanks again. Sold my XJ this week so the MJ is getting ALOT of attention.

So the lug nuts for the factory turbine wheels.... appear to be/are possibly.... somewhat unique. They are a bit taller. If I try to use a standard lug it's really hard to get a true lug wrench on them. Have MOST but not all I need. Standard "mag wheel" lugs are too tall to fit under the turbine wheel center cap. Anyone solved this issue already?? Thanks in advance.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/oil-filter-adapter-seal-kit-33002970k.html

Very interesting....thinking I'm about due on my 97' XJ. Was not looking forward to the hassle of dealing with the universals. Props to the OP.

So I figure they pop on the ends and I've done the "slides" on my XJ but I just haven't found a "graphical / picture " representation and it kinda bugs me. Sorry I am a child of the age television... NO age jokes please.

So the work continues on the current MJ project.... and I know how all members are all about the pictures..... looked like.... latest look..... Sorry HB... the chrome just had to go... AND if you noticed...it's currently up on jackstands....waiting on parts AGAIN... (time and money come next)...anyway.... THESE came in the box with the pads....but there were NONE already installed.... can anyone shed some light...

My 2 cents....Not to out-right bash your finding of a part source.....In fact I have needed new source for solder pellets so THANKS.... BUT.... I've been going with these Military style connectors for a few years. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/NOC0/TZ620.oap?ck=Search_military_-1_1326&keyword=military Great because you install ONCE. You only remove the one nut to take a cable off. They seem, in my experience to be pretty resistant to corrosion as well. And search O'Reilly and you will see a pretty much exact part from another, from a more name known vendor, for DOUBLE the price.

SOLUTION SOLUTION SOLUTION Well after getting home and making one more useless move----> swapping the used gauge into the cluster, the problem was.... THAT SORRY/CHEAP P/N TU108 TEMP SENDER FROM AUTOZCRAP After the gauge did the same thing..gauge passed ~220 degrees in 5.45:10 minutes. So I let it cool for a few minutes. Which wasn't long enough and when I unscrewed the DOA sender it shot a good antifreeze/distilled water mix everywhere. Installed the used PAP sender reset the stopwatch and cranked her back up. After 9.45.00 minutes still sitting at ~210 degrees. IR gun indicated the temperature of area between the two hoses on the thermostat housing was holding ~211 degrees. Thanks to everyone for their feedback, advise, encouragement. This is what makes this place special. Almost anyone can be a JEEP owner.....FEW can be Jeep Comanche Owners!

So a Lunch Hour trip to the PAP netted another gauge and sender. Worth the $5 to try. Also picked up another thermostat as the next step.

Ahhhhhh..... well at least you have an OPTION.

The thread sealant to use is Permatex 80633. Use only on the bolt specified by the FSM. Here is a link for a good picture and information. Most GOOD auto part stores should have it. http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/77847671?src=pla&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test&CS_003=7867724&CS_010=77847671

Thanks again... Eagle.... Interesting.... I had to go back and look at my pictures and refresh my mind about what I did on the last MJ. Changed the gauges on that one also but it was because it lacked a tach ( was a 5spd ) but had everything else. I find it interesting that this one would have have as much as it does.... 4.0L, Auto w/ Power/Comfort, Carpet, Sliding Rear Window, Door Panels w/ Storage Pockets, deluxe stereo with 4 speakers, Tilt, Intermitant Wipers and be base but I'm not picky and have emailed a contact at Jeep to see if she can get me the build sheet. The water pump is from NAPA part number 42004 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Water-Pump-New/_/R-TFW42004_0303846976 Will make sure that I check the belt pattern again. Just to be sure. The lower hose is a brand new NAPA hose part number 8333. It does not have the internal spring but is brand new and I've been watching THAT hose VERY closely. No parts stores locally have a hose with the internal spring and Gates even states that their new construction removes the need for the spring. Not sure I am sold. Will continue to search....so far have searched NAPA, AutoZone, Advanced, O'Reilly. Will call my buddy at CarQuest, they often come thru when the others fail. Amazon doesn't seem to have one either.

Thanks for the responses... mikejenn2.... Have shot my HF IR gun at EVERYTHING.....NOTHING gave me the reading of the gauge was giving.... the pressure bottle has never boiled....spewed....puked etc. I HAVE HAD that ....IS that thing reading correctly? question. Sorry for omitting these important facts/findings. Have considered buying a cheapo water temp gauge at Advance, AutoZone, O'Reilly ....... Have found ONE Mopar factory replacement gauge..... Jeep Driver Was considering the MotoRad... I now know (after lots of searches and reading) that this is the brand you will get from the local Jeep dealership. Previously, have flushed the entire system 4 times and flushed the radiator while it was out with the same Permatex stuff. http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80030-Heavy-Radiator-Cleaner/dp/B000HBGHPY Got the most out of the the system the first couple of times. ALOT from the heater core. Distilled and 50/50 are the only liquids used once everything has gone back together.

Well.... I think this has been done.....by me :brows: WOW I have an opportunity to actually supply a SOLUTION! :banana: Check this out.... Had this mess.... Made my NEVER AGAIN QUICK DISCONNECT REPLACEMENT with this From the local CarQuest store ( the only around here that is still pretty old school and has a machine shop in the basement ). This is what my stuff looked like on the bench/floor. So the replacement has worked FLAWLESSLY... Sorry this next picture sucks.... Best part is saying GOOD-BYE to this leaky POS.... AND....one of these is handy if you can find....borrowed from a great friend....I think he purchased off of Amazon. GOOD LUCK! Safe Travels!

It's so tough to ask..but it is nice when the folks that have a passion like you do at least agree. The latest MJ project is now running and driving. 1989 MJ 4.0 Auto 2WD SWB looks to be a Pioneer package. Have driven basically "around the block" so I moved on to trying to make sure it is really road capable. FLUID in pressure tank looked black and water pump was def noisy crap. Flushed with Permatex cooling system flush 4 times. Soaked radiator while out of the truck when I replaced. Replaced Water Pump ( NEW Napa) ( and Harmonic Balancer and front seal I desire to do things just once) Replaced Lower Radiator Hose ( NEW Napa ) ( those springs do bad things when they sit for extended periods of time ) Replaced Serp belt ( NEW Napa ) Replaced Pressure Cap ( NEW Napa Volvo Style) ( Cruiser believer ) Back Flushed Heater Core ( a couple of times ) Got alot of crap out of many of the other hoses. Decided to install my dash gauge package so I could actually tell what everything was doing. Purchased TU108 and PS133 per post for the Temp Gauge and Oil Pressure gauge. Install was average. Odo setting was fun and did an OK job with cutting the tach for the column shift indicator. I was feeling pretty proud of myself. ( PLAY JAWS MUSIC HERE ) Everything looked good EXCEPT the temp gauge. Got to 210 paused and then just kept climbing. I've tried.... taking the sender out ....made sure I had no bubble at the back of the head. Took off the teflon sealing tape after seeing that the body needs to ground to the head. Replaced Thermostat ( NEW Stant SuperStat 195 ) ( no I don't know WHY I didn't before other than stupidly admitting..it looked new ) Replaced Fan Clutch ( NEW Hayden from AutoZone ) ( can now hear the difference as it heats up ) Looped the heater core lines together. No Difference Eliminated the heater core control valve ( I just used a pipe cutter and cut off the valve and then used two hose clamps ) Did the Hokey Pokey three times, Prayed the rosery, said three Hail Mary's and four Our Father's ( figure a little humor can't hurt ...maybe) My next thoughts are .... 1. Replace thermostat AGAIN....just the posts of bad ones bothers me. Two bolts... I have everything other than the thermostat...new housings, old housings, gaskets...( I have an entire cabinet of new/used/old parts...Yes, I am a Jeep part hoarder) 2. Replaced the sending unit....AZ stuff is never my first choice but they had everything in stock and it was on the way home. Punch me now. Everyone else's sending units are like $24 and look EXACTLY the same. 3. PULL radiator and take to the local shop near work ( one of the few I have used and trust ) and have it rotted out and checked. Esp since you can't buy a decent all metal radiator for these anymore without spending $$. 4. IF #3 is the taken.... pull the Coolant Sender from the side of the block. ( Really looks like a PITA to get at ) Just to make sure the block is flushed good. SO again...IF YOU were me ??? Thanks in advance...

Not to HJ the OP thread....I always think....since I don't wheel any of mine much....would it help or hinder cooling?

Well after continuing to fight the "Why the hell is this thing now almost pegging the temp gauge?" I decided to at least tackle something that I could call a success. The headliner has absolutely no fabric on it. Visors pretty scary as well. AND the stock interior lights fail to light up at all. The interior light issue displayed their issue pretty quickly. Yes, that is what you think it is ...... SPRAY INSULATION FOAM ! OMG ! REALLY ? So far nothing as really been easy with the latest MJ. And I honestly almost think getting the Headliner out of my XJ was easier. Don't remember any of THIS messing with me. Yep, it on the back as well. I hated pulling off those chunks of the backer board. I felt slightly foolish. SLOW DOWN and look don't just pull. So...now that it is out gotta price with the guy that did the XJ.

Not sure now where I purchased the Carter unit I installed on my 97'-XJ ~ 2yrs ago. Part Number on the box in the garage is P75040M. Complete assembly. It was, as previously mentioned, not really a fun job getting the tank out and then the pump assembly was more fun. The fuel feed line is plastic so be careful and it is not very long. Looks complicated to disconnect but don't over-think it. The complete assembly is held in by a HUGE nut ring that is plastic. I did have anything anywhere near that big and used a rubber mallet and screwdriver. Since my XJ was not owned before me with any knowledge or care of the vehicle it had so much dirt caked around it that after chipping, digging and scraping I still soak it with PB Blaster for a couple hours after the first few tries. My only issue is that my fuel gauge doesn't seem to read correctly. The whole assembly is spring loaded and somehow I'm pretty sure either I did something wrong or set it up incorrectly. I've never run out of gas but I've never put more than ~16 gallons in the when it reads empty. Good Luck!

Well after a fun day of pulling everything back out.....it runs now....but back to an old problem and a new one..... Old Problem: Leaking at the Fuel Pressure Regulator..... I so HATE that little o-ring and it's job performance. New Problem: When you turn the ignition off the truck keeps running! Never had that one. Disconnect the hot wire for the fuel pump to kill the truck. Bad Ignition Switch all along ??? The wired I used was the one that was there from before. Figured sooner or later I'd need a hot feed off the ignition for something.

Ground in driver's side tail-light good...done as part of Cruiser's ground refresh. Did go ahead and pull the pump. Worked fine with 9V battery. The horrible pump in It when purchased was ran with a fused wire. Removed it when I got the pump installed and everything worked. With so much in question under the dash I am in the process of hooking it back up with a fused line off the ignition again. Not how I really want it but need to work thru other issues with it and not running makes things more difficult than a directly wired fused fuel pump.

Background.. got the new "project" running recently. 1989 model 4.0L auto 2WD 75K on clock had been sitting for god only knows. Lots of neglect. Lots of parts missing. Was having issues with it not wanting to change gears. Got cheap TPS replacement and also remembered the TV cable adjustment. Seemed to be changing gears but was running much rougher. Figured I bump/broke one of my new vacuum hoses. Had replaced the main ones with NAPA parts. Was worried I had just maybe run it too low on gas after checking everything over so.....ran to gas station bought ~7 gallons and put in the tank. Tank has been previously cleaned out. And the pump seemed to have been working great. JY replacement BOSCH pump that looked brand new. Over 1/4 showing on the gauge now. Pretty much bottomed out before. Ran for ~ 5 mins. Died as I was looking over ballast resistor and EGR relay/solenoid. Would not restart. Notice when I turned ignition key to RUN position I no longer heard the fuel pump prime. Immediately worried. Pulled fuel line from pressure regulator. No fuel dribbled out. Turned key to RUN. No prime noise. No fuel. Turned to START, no fuel. Have checked everything I can think of. Have already been thru most of Cruiser's steps Swapped relays ( have many ). Cleaned more connections. Checked ballast resistor connections., EGR solenoid ( mainly cause I was touching it when it died), cleaned relay connections again. Bypassed ballast resistor. Bypassed Fuel Pump relay ( 30 -87 ) could hear click from driver's side but not sure from what. Will start and run when I soak the air filter a flammable liquid. Just weird but yeah I know...I own three others and have owned four in the past. Have I overlooked the obvious or is it time to pull the pump and consider myself lucky that my $15 complete JY fuel pump lasted this long?

Southern Pick A Part there in Augusta has a Comanche with Blue interior.

hey curious what disk brakes can you use for the 8.25 rear end.. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/fitting-kj-liberty-rear-disc-brakes-xj-cherokee-8-25-axle-750112/ I believe ( not an expert just a good Googler) you will find 05' Jeep Liberty disc are pretty easy to swap into the 8.25

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/4467330734.html