Motion Offroad

Jump the ballast resistor on the inside of the fender with a piece of wire. See if that solves the issue...

XJ light's won't work on the MJ's...

Depends on if it's a 27 spline or a 29 spline. If it's a 29 spline than that's a decent price for it.

It's a factory one from a 97+ XJ.

Correct

A Dana 20 is a transfer case. If your talking about an AMC 20 (axle) it's similar but not quite the same. The XJ's only had the D35, D44, and Chrysler 8.25" (all in a few different varieties).

Thats an 8.25"

What you save now with going "cheap" you'll spend later having to replace it again. I'd really recommend getting something that does not have the plastic end caps that crack. Going with an all metal version (CSF) that does away with the plastic ends. The CSF is decently priced ($205 shipped) and comes with a lifetime warranty. I know it's more now, but you'll thank yourself later!

You all have Rebecca to thank for that. She spent a lot of time working with the print shop on getting them made up and sent out. We just wanted to say "thanks" in our own way this year. Hope you all got them in time for Christmas. Thanks again! :cheers:

Not cheap but here you go; http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cts_id=271

Your front will be a D30, not a D35. Who says to get rid of the D30? With very little mod's the D30 is a fairly solid axle that's able to handle 35's pretty easily. For the $$ you'll have in putting a D44 in the front you can build a sick D30 with a locker and chromo shafts....

G2 = Genuine Gear. It's their new "hip" marketing approach...

The performance of them offroad in my opinion is greatly based on what carcus they use. I've known some guys to get BFG carcus' and have been happy with them; others have gotten a cheaper tire carcus and not been at all happy with them. Last I knew with treadwright you got what they sent you; as you can not specify what carcus you want. They "try" to send you 4 matching one's but I've known guys to get miss-matched carcus' as well.

Looks like Brent hit it right on the nail, $7995. A vehicle is only worth what someone's willing to pay, regardless of what's invested...

Upon my long detailed convo with Jeremy at RK it's primarily for better road handling. A 4-link setup performs better on the road than the 3 link setup does; especially at 6.5" of lift and higher. The nice thing about the new kit is that if you want to run it as a 3 link you can; you don't ever have to put that 4th link in there if you don't want to. But for those who do, the 4th link (pass upper) will be able to be easily removed for offroad use when you hit the trails. It's essentially the exact same kit that you currently have, the driver side bracket is flipped to mock it on the pass side, and now includes an additional upper arm. It will also include a new "krawler" joint for the upper on the pass side similar to what they currently use on the driver side like you currently have. So it's the same design, just now will have a passenger side upper that you can or don't have to run if you don't like. The new kit will be called the "Triple Threat", and be a part of a full line of new products available from RK the 1st of the year. They are doing away with the X-Factor line on the XJ's to replace it with the new line of products (XJ kits will not have a few different things as well; biggest difference is Deaver leaf's now). I should have the new longarm kit in my hands mid next week and will be able to give more info at that time.

The mega-short SYE's are made for the wrangler guys who are running large lifts. The d-shafts on the wranglers are VERY short and they need all the extra clearance that they can get. On the MJ's it's not recommended to go with the mega-short SYE. A normal one works fine and will work on the NP231 (j-version) on the MJ's better than the mega-short one's do.

Agreed. The MJ has reinforced LCA mounts and the support braces are typically not needed. We wheel with a few locals who are running the RE brackets on the MJ's and nobody has ever had an issue with them not having the braces. If you wanting to modify the RE braces to fit the MJ's, your honestly better off starting from scratch and building a set to work.

Not all D44's are created equal. What D44 (aka what's it out of) are you referring to?

For $200 you can convert your D30 to a 1 piece shaft on the pass side and do away with the CAD, and be much better off (in my opinion). As far as the light goes, it's the blue vacuum line that controls the light. It may be cracked somewhere, or simply undone. I'd track the blue line from the TC upto the cab and see if you can find the issue.

Just a FYI, the RK 3-Link kit will be discontinued effective Jan. 1, 2009. It will be replaced with a 4 link setup that is very similar; that will allow you to remove the pass. side upper and still run it as a 3 link if you wish for better offroad articulation. Than you can easily put the 4th link back in for better road manners. Price will be going up greatly as well...

I'm going to disagree with the above. The frame rails where the steering box mounts is under a great amount of stress (even with 31's). I've seen them crack on a XJ/MJ that is not often wheeled with a set of 31's. In my opinion adding a steering box support plate (as well as a brace) is one of (if not the best) preventive maintenance things you can do to your rig. If/When that area cracks it's not easy/fun to fix it. A support plate is cheap insurance, even if your only running 31" tires!

Well it really depends on what Ford Motorsport injectors you use. Neither of them are THAT much better... The only major benefit is the pintel design on the Ford injectors vs. the Chrysler one's. Not saying that the Ford one's are a bad upgrade, you just have to be careful on the Renix motor's of dumping to much fuel in. Ford Motorsport 19.0lb/hr @ 39psi (Part no. FMS-M9593-C302) Ford Motorsport 24.0lb/hr @ 39psi (Part no. FMS-M9593-A302)

I know of 2 kits currently on the market for doubling the 231. They are the Madrooster Offroad Kit and the DD Machine Box4Rocks kit. The Box4Rocks kit is defiantly a nice setup. We used it with a Dana 300 / NP231 doubler combo. Worked perfectly. The Box4Rocks kit I believe runs right at $399 (last time I checked), where the Madrooster kit is more expensive at around $100 more. As to why one is better than the other I have no clue as I've not researched them in depth. As far as getting them, here is the info I can provide for you. D.D. Machine (ask for Duffy) (360) 779-2500 dd98370@hotmail.com (I believe he has Yahoo Msg. as well under the name of djld98370) Madrooster Off Road (ask for Phil) (559) 232-5566 madroosterfab@yahoo.com or desertcj2002@yahoo.com (I believe he has AOL Msg. as well under the name of ieffed) Hope that helps! :cheers:

Actually they are different... the static flow is different among the Renix/HO motors. It is a worthy swap to swap in a set of HO injectors on the Renix motor IMHO. Model Year Part Number Color Fuel Pressure Static Flow 1987-1990 53003956 Black 39psi 18.6lb/hr 1991-1993 33007127 Brown 39psi 21.0lb/hr 1994-1995 53030343 Tan 39psi 21.0lb/hr 1996-1999 53030778 Grey 49psi 23.2lb/hr 1999-2006 04854181 Blue Tip 49psi 22.5lb/hr The injector flow rate varies as the square root of the pressure drop across the injector. The stock '91-'95 4.0 injectors are rated at 22lb/hr @ 43psi fuel pressure, so at 39psi they flow ( sq. rt.(39/43) x 22.0 = 21.0 ).

Not without major modifications.