pingpong

a leaky D35, with the plastic plug fill plug :cry: You are going to want to find a d35 cover with the screw in filler cap :brows:

Gotta love the old barn burner lincoln's Thats what I use as well :D Depending on how powerful of a Mig welder you buy.. they are great. Keep in mind that they get preety pricey for the ones I am talking about. We are talking in the 1000+ price range, but ones that big can weld 1/2 in one pass.

I would bring some gas, and try and start it that way, then go to the coil, and lastly the CPS. That is in the order of ease, ad price

Let me use my mind warp method of telling you waht rig you got Yep by the looks of it you have a MJ :smart: IN all seriousness we need pics or something to really tell you what you have

Yeah Brett has writeups on Naxja, and Pirate, He partly inspired the way my cage was done.... Now I wish I owuld have dovetailed the front to start with :cry:

I never said that I pull dents out of vehicles... I said it could be used to do that :smart:

I only get filled full of GLEE when torches and plasma cutters are used for removal of body parts :teehee:

Hell my driveway is longer and in worse shape than that :nanner:

Jeff you are right... that is like 10 minutes from my house, but I have to work 3-11 Saturday. Some of the guys involved in that sport take it very seriously, kinda like Our lil dirt track up the road in Saluda... racing is very serious in this area

Having dealt with title issues here in VA, some things I have learned. Having a good clean title is best Having good title and a written bill of sale is better Salvage titles are hard to get, and require the state police to come out and inspect the vehicle to make sure it is road worthy, and not stolen Recovered vehicles(previously stolen vehicles) get issued a new vin plate, as do some salvage vehicles You can file for an abandoned vehicle title after 90 days If you have a bill of sale, you can go down to Department of motor vehicles, with a copy of the VIN number to verify who the last owner was There are also companies that specialize in clearing up " no title" situations on vehicles for a fee, but this is mostly done on special construction items like salvage bikes, and salvage cars

Well I hope you are not going to buy it.... it needs way more work then it is worth. YOu have to figure on Ball joints, new hubs, and rotors, bearinga and seals, plus u-joints, and possibly gears cause if the outside looks that rough.. the inside probrably isnt much better. A complete d44 8 lug normally goes for 5-700 depending on how useable it is out the box. BTW a D60 is around 1000-1250 shipped from high honda

I would say over all it is looking good. I have another question.. what kinda welder you using? Stick, a mig welder with gas, or flux core wire?

More thenlikely it is the Idle air control valve. That is if you are getting good fuel and spark. I had a fuel pump go bad.. and it would start up fine, then once you gave it gas it would choke out.

Go buy the Terra flex Long arm upgrade kit.. it is way cheaper then Rusty's kit, and gives you the same performance using a parrallel 4 link set-up... also Did Imention I am running this on my rig.. and for being less then 250 shipped. it performs better then I expected

The bad thing was.. my bed was rust free :eek: and so was the frame :D They just had a few dents in them :driving: As much as I love my truggy.. it isn't for everyone.. you need to have a tow rig and a trailer once you get to the level of destruction on my rig :brows: Pong just inst streetable.. thats why I am building Casper :nanner:

A lil tip for those who don't own a slide hammer, a rim works just as good, just push in, ant then pull out.. this is after you put a couple of lugnuts on first ;) Also a good slide hammer is relatively inexpensive... they come in handy for lots of things as well, like unit bearings.. pulling dents :brows:

By the time you do a 203/205 doubler, unless you do some kind of lower gear ratio in the swap (more moeny) you would have been better off buying a Terra lowkit, but if you are dead set on a doubler.. look at Mad rooster kit.. I know there is another kinda one... on PBB, but can't think of the manufacturer

Here In VA we have lost some of our trails as well. The reason why we lost access to one.. was abuse by wheelers going on/crossing private property, and ppl ripping donw posted signs. The only way to beat legislators is to get involved, and pony up the money for orginaztions like United four wheel drive.. blue ribbon coalition, ETC. and atc. Also if you see a yahoo doing something wrong or illegal tell him to stop or call the law, and take a pic, and take down his plate number. Remember public land is only public till someone abuses it, or complains about the way it is used

Just buiy looking at the size of the u-joints.. I am going to guess D44 :roll: am I right

If I was you.. I would buy a welding half shirt... it also protects you from slag and sparks :brows: Looks really good... what grade and thickness steel are you using?

let me check I might have the one from my rig before I cut it up

To do the 203/205 doubleris kinda on the expensive side... do you research. Also I am looking for a cheap NP203.... it seems everyone where I live wants an arm and leg for them. I have a NP435, and np205 sitting on the ground by the garage... I pulled it myself :eek:

If this is a strret rig, or one that see's lots of street duty, I owuld definately have the driveshatf proffesionally done by a loocal shop. As for the SYE...There aqre only a few advantages... the first one being the increased strength. Also if you decide to chop your rig like I did.. sye is a must

Hor fuel lines just go buy some univerasl fuel lengths and fit them togetther. Make sure you use the correct size, and couplings

Rausch creek, Paragon, Harlan. I am game for all of these and all are 6-10 hrs from me