pingpong

is the motor a runner?

If yo9u build it right it can survive that size tire, as long as you don't hit the skinny pedal often. I broke a yukon alloy on 35's though :driving: Superior just came out with a super 38 kit, that eliminates the c-clips and gives you alloy shafts. Its suppose to be good for up to 38's

Thats an awesome rig.. Love the Paint. Nothing rides like a Deere

I wil tell you that even with the RE DB's and 35's you can't go everywhere in America :brows: The wjole point of using bigger axles, is so you can step up to bigger tires. There are lots of places where ground clearance is king, as well as bigger tires equal better approach/departure/ breakover angles. Dirty as for your comments... Most ppl narrow the rockwells some, but even then they are still over 84" wide :eek: Of course you still need to shave the diff like you said. The other advantage to running them, is the ease of 4 wheel steering :yes: As for getting to where you wheel.... as long as manufacturers keep building 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks, and they still build trailers.. I can get there go 75mph too :nanner:

Hmmm :hmm: why not cut the perches loose carefully and rotate your pinion up :smart: Unless you want to be able to adjust your WB at different times :eek: which doesn't seem practical when we are only talking an inch or so

My personal Opinion would be to take the turbo 350, and buy an ORD doubler kit and use both the np 203 and the np205. This would be after I bought the Lomax or the Jb conversion 3to 1 kit for the 205 :D Keep in mind that with the 203 and the 205 the Low range is less then 2to1, I am not sure what the low range is in the 208. Also the np205 can be twin sticked... if that is something you would be into :D

Web wheeling is so much cooler then working on your junk anyways :hateputers:

Bill, who were you talking about ;) You all forgot to mention the ground wire that is behind the drivers side tail light. That one was a PITA for me :D If you box has been exposed to lots of mud and foul weather I suggest trying to pressure wash it before you try and remove it. Just so everyone knows... I removed the bed before I cut the frame :cheers:

Looks real good. BTWif no rims and tires cured your DW it wasnt DW more then likely it was a bent rim or missing wheel weights

31's and 307 equal about 8 miles off at 55mph. Ask me how I know, and I can tell you how an improper equipment ticket is more then a speeding ticket ;)

Eagle is 100% correct on the welding of cast center sections, or just welding cast steel in general. It requires special rods ( HI nickle) and yoou have to pre heat and post heat. If done correctly.. you are golden, if done improperly you just ruined the axle. See, cast steel (nodular) expands at a different rate then say axle tubes.

or a way for the county to impound someone's treasure that they want for themselves

Yeah, as long as it is a drivers drop front , and centered drop rear. MIght have to do a lil fab work here and there, but it will be ok.

everything that thety said, and they can get in the way while rock crawling

The whole portable winch thing is a novel concept, except that it hurts approach and depature angles, and they are not exaclty light so moving them front to rear.. isnt exactly easy.

The Dakota did well in sales mostly cause You could get a v-8 in them, and they had plenty of punch for a truck

what do you mean by front skid plate? The factory one, LCA skids, tranny skids... what?

yeah we need your paypal address so I know who to send it to

See I got a set of H1 BL needing some tires in my garage :D

To me it sounds as if the fuel problem. Lets analyze this though. Check for compression, I am going to assume this is there. then check for spark. Check for it all the way down to the plugs, or just pull a plug and turn it over. if it checks out then it is on to the last thing FUEL I have had a MJ run and idle fine, but as soon as you give it gas it would die out. also if it idle for more then a few minutes it would die. Ended up being a bad fuel pump. I would check to make sure that I had adequate fuel pressure on the rail, and if all that checks out.. I can't tell you what else to check

I would make my own out of 1/4 plate, or 1/4 wall tubing that was close to the right diameter. The purpose of the Cam bolts is to help adjust caster.

My question was going to be.. what brought on the DW, or was it always there. Bad caster, bent steering parts, can cause what you describe. Or it could be a combination of lots of lil things causing it

Code enforcement is a PITA. They have yet to mess with me, but my Home owners assocaition has. They said something about some swampers I used to have behind the garage. My answer was to move them to the front yard, and place flowering plants in them :rant: and I proceeded to tell them where they could go. I also sent them a copy of the county regulations covering inoperable vehicles on ppls property. As eagle posted it covered everything from cars to boats. Since I live on a private road with a private boat ramp... one of the ppl who lives on this road owns 6 unliscensed boats, and a fewe other items. I told them when they get him to clean up his yard I will clean up mine :D

I must be getting weak then.. cause it seemed alot heavier then that ;)

They are not bad... they are just the cheap way to do a lift. Most ppl who do a lift that way, also forget to upgrade shocks and brake lines as well, which equals trail breakage.