pingpong

MIght not be cheaper, but easier to source al the parts from one place

Thanks guys..... I knew one of you all had it. I just need something close so I can rough it out.... then I will make a set exact to the vehicle

I know someone posted it a while back, and I searched and could not find it... but does some have a printable copy of the bolt hole locations on the front

Try and get the pump and box from a similar model year engine... I know on the 4.0 XJ's there were lots of changer in 90 and again in 96. I am not 100% but the pumps might be different. Maybe one of the JY hounds can answer this.. or Eagle

I was just telling you that.. I don't know what kinda of equipment access you have. I would see if you could get 1/8 or 3/16 bent like the TNT frame stiffners are for the XJ. That way you can drill lots of small holes and put lots of weld on them(kinda like tempermental racing has done for their front frame stiffners). While you are doing research you might want to look at this months Offroad magazine.. they are doing a 4 link on a Ranger.. might give you a few ideas. As for DOM prices you have to buy in bulk to get that good of rate locally. I mean like 300 feet or more. That adds up quick

Best thing to do is go to the Ford stealership and buy the correct u-bolts, cause they are kinda an old ball size. They are also flatten out at the bottom for some reason

Are you staying Spring under?

The front half of the frame is only 3.5 inches tall... Just a heads up on that. also where are you getting your DOM from.. thats a decent price.

Cw... Have you had a problem with crushing the exhaust tip... I almost think you would at full stuff

All auto tranny equipped Xj/Mj's have/had them

The d-60 is a pig too.. Go 42's man ;) be like me

Speaking from experience, by the time you buy the steel to make brackets, and pay for all your consumables, and figure your time... you will be money ahead to buy premade brackets Unless you have a large piece of 1/4 or 5/16 steel laying around. I can't tell you if that joint is going to be strong enough for your rig.. it has a lot to do with shear strength and tensile strength

I like mine for the simple fact I can walk into any Advance, or Napa and buy all my stuff off the shelf with no special ordering. Everything is kinda generic

That looks like just the coil hold down... it don't actually look like the bracket to go to the tube or the frame... Like this BTF version http://bluetorchfab.com/store/product_i ... cts_id=130 Ballastics version http://ballisticfabrication.3dcartstore ... -1179.html http://ballisticfabrication.3dcartstore ... -1478.html Thats for frame side and axle side on Ballastics stuff

There are 2 major down sides to the 14 bolt... Gear ratio's only go to 5.13 and they are a pig as far as size goes For 50 bucks if the ratio works for you.. I say buy it... but if not regearing an axle is not cheap

POng wasn't an offroad machine either when I started :brows:

I thought about it.. but to have a solid piece of steel that is 2" would be stupid heavy. I think each link would weigh around 75# then. I would say over half on joints... if you do a captured coil set up like I think you are BTF has some nice stuff, but they are over priced if you ask me I want to do coilovers or air shocks.. so another 400- 750 for my set-up.... By the way if you keep the stock 4.0.. I can tell you to instal a fuel cell, a new inline pump, and associated fittings is going to be another 400-500 bucks

The bad thing is.. the ppl who did this will never be brought to justice. That one day forever changed America..This is our Generations Pearl Harbor... God have mercy on all of the lost souls.

I just got to reading my Diferential book... it appears that Ford f350 I got has the worst d-60's out there. Accordint to the book " A really odd " Wimpy Sixty" with open knuckles, D44 sized inner and outer shafts Combined with 5-282x u-joints ( about the equivalent to the recent 5-332x strength). It had a drivers side offset, standard rotation with a one piece, internally splined hub and disc brakes. The knuckle was notched so the oversized joint would fit inside.

I did my research thourgh looking thru Pirates vendor section and talking to different vendors. The joints I got use a 9/16 bolt.. not sure what the JJ's use. Also the threaded end on Mine are 1.25, when you buy the threaded insert measure 1.5, which means you have to buy stupid big tubing which cost stupid amount of money. Thats one of the thing holding Pong up from being done.. the cost of the tubing.

85-91.5 F350 Kingpin 92-98 f350 ball joint 00' and up f350 DRW ball joint, live spindle, and metric hubs I t really didnt talk much about them. it said it was avaialble in SRW apps. It has 35 spline inners and 32 spline outers. As for price check on ebay and see what they are slling for. Or call HighHonda and see what he is asking for one. IIRC his ebay name is D60provider... or something like that

I am breaking out my Randy ring and pinion book to look up the highlights of the axles for you and will post relevant info directly

Screw the BS and build a Truggy, and go broke in the process like the rest of us

There are a lot of rebuildable joints out there.. I am going to use the ballistic 2.63 joint... I see they just came out with a 3" one that will take a 3/4 bolt :D They are rebuildable as well

If I make it out there, I am taking the cordles sawzall to remove a portion of the bed and frame section. No stock parts fit any of my rigs :D Also might take the rear half of the cab.. MIght try and close the back in on the Turd