Geonovast

Yeah I busted up that sensor when I put the 4.0 back in my XJ...tried a bunch of parts stores but none of their books ever had anything like it. So I just threw the fan on a switch on the dash.

47"..kay. I guess I'll go with the 2wd shortening then.lol

That comes on during ignition just to let you know the light works. Or at least that's what I think.

I need a rear driveshaft length for a.. 4wd 2.5 Ax-5/NP207/D35 Shortbed I don't know what "official" lengths are, but if you can get center of the u-joint eyelet to center of u-joint eyelet that should work. Also, would it be better to have a 2wd MJ shaft shortened, or an XJ shaft lengthened?

Yeah, that could help, since the pump would be priming twice before trying to start. Hadn't though of that. I just dealt with it on my 88 XJ cause it would always start, just took a few seconds. Didn't really matter.

That's pretty normal for the renix system.

I'd worry about getting the pressure problem fixed first. Doesn't make sense, but if you get that cleared up, your gage may start working properly. You could pull the pump/gage sensor and see if its working properly. (have the key on, and move the sensor yourself, to see if it puts the gage in the right place) As for a leaky line, just idle the truck, and look underneath for puddles.

Stickshift Crossfire eh? From what I understand they have a version of the NSG 370 in that...you should, uh, "accidently" trade transmissions with him :brows:

I actually wouldn't mind too much to live in Canada.. I bet DirtyComanche doesn't need $160 taken out of his check every month just so he can go to the fecking doctor...

Bad U-joints can cause it too. I had it really bad in my 88 XJ, never figured it out. Just crawl under there and see if anything's loose... Track bar, Control arm Bushings, All the tie rods, U-joints. Also try rotating your tires.

That's sweet, I'd like to get behind the wheel of one of them. Oh, BTW, I have the 2wd front axle off for ya, Pat's just gotta pick it up unless you wanted to come all the way out to Marshall for it.

Got the D30 on...went surprisingly well, after I took some of those bolt-out things to the lugnuts. Torch helps too. 6-7 hours to get the old axle off...about 2 1/2 to get this one on. I'm happy. And since I used the 4.0 springs, I got about 2 inches of lift in the front. Much better look for her BTW I think these are the best pictures I've gotten a chance to take of my truck...since they weren't taken with a camera phone.

Ok...so I got the front axle off today, and were getting ready to put the D30 on...except the fecking Lugnuts won't come off...so wheels can't come off...so it won't go under the truck. I hope the damn things will break tomorrow, so I can at least get the axle bolted on so I can go to work on monday. Tranny will have to wait. It'll give me time to fix it anyway. Doesn't help that I pretty much threw my back out, so getting the new axle in is gonna be fun. Especially with only one person to help...who isn't very car-savvy.

Ok, looking forward to starting the swap tomorrow...but I had to @#$% around with the trans some more tonight, and I hit a bump. It won't go into fifth anymore. Not like it's sliding up there and not doing anything, its just NOT going up, just like it doesnt on a 4 speed. Meh. Depending on how fast the axle swap goes...I may be able to @#$% around with it again Sat night, but I doubt it.

I can't work on my truck at 3 a.m. I don't sit on it for 23 hours a day like some people, for me its no more involved than checking my email. Also, mods on my truck cost money...Myspace = free.

I just started having a problem with my pump too, it's making a loud groaning noise, and gets lower when i tap the gas. It's there while driving too, and its only there when the truck is running. Maybe the ballast resistor is letting too much current through? I'm not experiencing any loss of power, though.

lol I know it's not the most efficent...but it doesn't cost anything extra. And it's not a full garage, just a shed. About 6x10.

It arrived almost a full week ahead of the scheduled shipping time, it was shipped UPS, so that was surprising. I installed it in about 4 hours...it looks like a lot, cause it comes with hardware and adapters to go in pretty much any kind of vehicle, so you don't use most of it. You'll have to use the magnet kit it comes with if you're putting it in your J10. Dunno how easy that is, I have an electronic speedo so I didn't have to use it.

Yeah, but still...the 4.0 Isn't all that horrible on gas unless you tell it to be. As for your gas guzzling problem... It may be the regulator, or the pump. If you're near a local shop, you could have the computer checked out to see if it's throwing any codes, might tell you what's going on. I thought my TPS was shot last year, and they tested it for me, turned out my Fuel Pump was dead. Either that or the truck's just rejecting that motor and wanting the 4.0 back...

Isn't that bass ackwards? She took the 4.0 OUT and put the 4 popper IN?

I doubt it was that they knew better than to burn an MJ...half the people I talk to, standing NEXT TO MY TRUCK, can't tell the difference between a Comanche and a Cherokee. They probably went to a JY and went "Gimmie..that one, that one, and that one." Chances are it was just a project someone either quit on or wrecked. I haven't seen Sahara yet, but I'll make sure I watch that scene about 87 times.

Wrangler grill would look bad @$$ in there, definitly BTW, I just read the whole Topic from beginning to here, and all I can say is. Holy buckets.

I don't know if it was completely required for this aftermarket cruise setup, but it runs off the VSS signal and Tach signal to operate smoother. It's also capable of running JUST off the Tach for the cruise. http://www.amazon.com/Audiovox-CCS100-U ... 784&sr=8-1 Installation was actually very easy, only had to drill two holes under the hood to mount the vacuum actuator. Works very well, and not too bad if you can't get ahold of a stock cruise setup.

http://www.myspace.com/jeep91mj