Geonovast

Just tie it up out of the way, and put a C-clamp on the caliper to keep it compressed. :idea:

Here I was assuming he was using the rubber one. I'm hoping he is. The cork one will require RTV all the way around, and are just a PITA to remove again. There's no sense in not buying the rubber one.

Did you ever consider that you simply have awesome tires?

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential2.htm

If you're looking for a (fairly) quick and easy swap for the 2.hate, you can track down a GM 3.4L V6. It's the same block as the 2.8, it's still a V6, and in the realm of motor swaps, it's among the easiest. Plenty of 2.8 -> 3.4 swap threads around here too. :thumbsup:

Differentials work solely on friction. If both tires on an axle have an equal amount of resistance to the ground, they will receive equal amounts of power. So if you're on fairly level packed dirt in 4wd, all 4 wheels will have good traction, and they'll all get power. If one wheel on an axle has significantly less traction, it will receive all the power and spin freely. Do you have any extra axles sitting around you can pop the cover off and watch how it works while spinning by hand?

That information would have been good to have at the start of this thread. Given your lack of a signature, we all assumed you wanted to swap into your 91 with a 2.5, which we only knew you had because of your screen name. 86 could be a completely different animal when it comes to swappage. I suggest you get a signature with more details of your vehicles, (year/engine/trans/4wd or not/bed length). It will help further tech questions. Also be a tad more specific when asking your questions. Please? 8)

I suppose someone's gotta ask.. What transmission do you have? 4 speed? 5 speed? Auto?

You need a small dab of RTV where the 90* bends to go over the rear bearing cap, and a small dab up front where the timing cover meets the oil pan and block. I haven't done it, but I've seen here that you can use 4 small zip ties to hold the gasket on, get it up to the block, thread in a good portion of the bolts, then cut the zip ties out. I'm certainly going to try that next time I install a pan in the truck.

This isn't something to be done by a total amateur(unless you really, really want to) :brows: . It's a lot of work, and a lot of things could go wrong. I'm assuming your MJ is not your primary vehicle? If you tackle something like this, you should take your time with it, and make sure everything's done properly. I'm certainly not telling you not to do the swap, just heavily suggesting reading up on as many 4.0 swaps as you can. If you've got friends that can help, the more the merrier :thumbsup: We'll certainly be here to help you through the entire process, multiple members have done this exact swap.

You will need to swap over all the wiring from the 4.0 donor. Along with all the accessories, cooling system, etc. There are multiple 2.5 to 4.0 swap threads on here, you should be able to dig up pretty thorough instructions on how to get it done. Chances are pretty good you can get yourself a 4wd swap while you're at it.

Eh.. But remember your MJ was designed to house a 4.0. Several people on here have small blocks in their trucks, and it takes heavy modification, and I believe all of them have cooling issues. Easiest swap would be to find yourself a busted up 91-95 XJ with a good drivetrain and wiring, grab the whole truck, and swap it over.

That I did not know. Now I do. :banana:

4.0 would be your easiest option, and it keeps it Jeep.

A good number of Jeeps came with Limited Slip in the back. In most conditions, if one rear wheel can't slip, you won't be spinning any up front.

Then they'd be pulling air away from the brakes on the other side.... :nuts:

Yeah, hoping to be there about 7ish. Might be a tad earlier if we somehow get out of here early. :nuts: And yes, I'll be jetting back to WI Saturday night.

Raided brake parts off the 4.0 for the XJ. One of these days I'll be driving one again. :wall:

If it makes you feel better, this is what I was greeted with when I went hunting down my brake noise. I just put those brakes in too. I have no idea what happened. Either some part failed on me, something somehow got in there, wreaked havoc, and got out before I pulled the drum, or I did something wrong when I put it together.

AW-4 was not available until 87. T-case is going to be a NP 207 if it's Command-trac. CAD D30(Command-trac), D35 rear. I've heard from several sources lately that 84-85 D35s had two piece axle shafts. If it's free, get it. Otherwise it's not going to be worth much.

:ack: :ack: :ack: :ack: :ack: :ack: :ack:

I would pop the calipers off, work them back and forth a few times, and take it for a drive. Maybe bleed it a bit to make sure you don't have any cooked fluid in the caliper.

If that doesn't work, let me know ASAP. I just bought a manual oil pressure gauge, and it wouldn't be much out of the way to swing by your area on our way to WI tomorrow, if you're available.

Hook up a manual gauge to it to see if that acts the same. If the manual gauge reads normal, then the sending unit or gauge is probably to blame.

A lot of Toyota transmissions are similar, because they're made by Aisin. I used to be in the Supra crowd, and they used the R151 (AX-15's cousin), and the AW-4 behind the 7M motors. I believe the 5Ms in the MKIIs used a cousin to the AX-5, as well as the smaller pickups with the 42RE motor.