Geonovast

:cheers:

I've run my 2.5 at 3400-3600 constantly for 9ish hours straight several times and it never once had a problem with it. :dunno:

Buy a new seal. Last time I bought one(for a 231, but I think it's the same part, it was $7 at Carquest. Motor swap for a leaking output seal is kind of like renting a steamroller to squash an ant.

Correct... the AW-4 is a 4 speed trans. When the converter locks in 4th, it feels like a 5th gear, but the trans doesn't shift. 1st 2.8:1 2nd 1.53:1 3rd 1:1 4th 0.75:1 (I've heard the older ones were 0.79:1)

Donor year doesn't mean squat when you're dumping into an 86. Shoot for 91-95. Regardless of year donor, you're going to need to modify the radiator supports, and possibly pound on the firewall a bit. This is on top of needing to swap ALL wiring, dash and engine bay, along with all the cooling stuff, vacuum, etc. Best way is to find yourself an XJ that was wrecked either from behind, or not too bad up front.

Even with 205/75/R15 tires, 4.88 gearing, you'd would only be pushing 4500 RPM at 94 MPH. I hope you're not seriously thinking overrevving is a problem, unless you're hammering on it in the lower gears and not watching the tach.

I've never worked on a MK IV, but the MK IIIs were worthless hunks of crap. Yeah, they could push a ton of power... when they worked. My "POS Jeep" towed that thing back to it's house from Madison at least 4 times.

When I started shaving (15ish), I used my dad's electric, until I bought my own. Because... well.. dad used one. (&$^ing hate it. $60 Norelco, and brand new it didn't do squat. I still keep it around, I use the beard trimmer on it for a pre-shave if I let it get too long. I now use a Shick Quattro. Works great. Blades are usually 4 or 5 for ~$9. Recently picked up a clearanced 8 pack for $10, sitting above the 4 pack for $9..

I always get a kick out of the douchehats who insult potential buyers in their ad. I might, MIGHT, give him $400 for it.

Left is open, Right is Trac lok.

:dunno: They're HUGE, so I'm not embedding them.

You must be new to the electronic ignition system. That's all that's supposed to be in there. The ECU receives signal from the ©rank (P)osition (S)ensor on the top driver's side of the bellhousing. CPS is a magnetic pickup that reads indentations in the flywheel. ECU uses this to fire the coil. All advancing is controlled by your ECU. The 4.0s and 91+ 2.5s have another magnetic pickup inside the dizzy, for the MPFI. It works in conjunction with the CPS so the ECU knows which injector to open. Since you only have one, you don't need that sensor.

Seems like it gets earlier every year, too... I bet you'll be able to buy 2015 vehicles in January of 2014..

Looks like you wiped the gate with the fish.. :shake:

What you sayin Pete, I didn't fix it good enough? :(

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Can you get me a nice, CLEAN closeup of part of one of your trucks that I can use as a background? Paint on my blue one is crap, and I'd rather not use red.

I could try to clean it up a bit in photochop, maybe wrap it in plastic.

I'd report it.

Since I've yet to get allen sockets, I would usually stick the 7mm allen wrench through my 7mm ratcheting wrench, and that would do the trick.

Because if it's in gear, then turning the motor turns the wheels. Which, you know, is how the thing moves. If the wheels can't turn, and it's in gear, then the motor can't turn.

It's a stick, yes? What gear did you put it in? 5th gear should provide enough resistance to break it loose. If that's not enough, have someone sit in it standing on the brakes. Have fun getting the balancer itself off. My puller, at least, doesn't really fit in there.

I don't remember what the 2wd beams on the MJs had originally, but the allen bolts sounds right.

94 D30 on one MJ has a 12mm hex head 93 D30 on the other MJ has, I believe, a 12 mm hex head. 88 XJ has 7mm female allen head. 99 XJ has a 13 mm hex head. They never could make up their minds.