Alexia

Olympic White on the 1986 model is a single stage with no clear coat. If the surface feels raised get clay bars and the appropriate spray to work on the surface. That will remove most of the contaminants. Then it can be buffed properly.

This officially makes you a hipster. :P Still one of those interesting designs from history.

I do and I plan to use them to adapt other seats to fit.

Ha, I have the exact same table in my living room covered in parts just like that. Is that the Doorman replacement oil pan? Either way, how does the build quality feel? Trying to avoid a crappy replacement for mine.

They are screwing you, basically. 1.) The sway bar does not need replaced unless it some how has managed to rust through.(Incredibly unlikely!) 2.) Ball joints are the most time consuming to replace and can be expensive. So lots of labor cost involved there. 3.) Worn control arm bushings and track bar bushing/ball joint are typically the first cause of death wobble. I wonder if they actually tested all the components.

It will be very similar to a stock setup.

I considered mine to do that.(It's fun watching my friends do it.) I would be shooting for a minimum of 200hp for the weight of a MJ to drift effectively. A stock 190hp HO motor with a few modifications should be fine. It is harder to learn to drift with less horsepower. Die hard drifters will get in arguments about solid axle versus independent suspension, but they both have their pros and cons. Solid is easier to break loose, but less stable than IS. Then there is the issue with particularly stiff rear leaf springs. Another challenge presented will be all the suspension adjustments. Adjustment control arms will be needed to change the caster and then offset ball joints to change the camber.

I bought a complete engine rebuild gasket set for the 1997 engine I am working on. It was not obvious when I bought it, but the set includes every little seal and gasket down to the internals of the oil pump. It even covers all years 1984 to 2001. I have seals for parts that do not apply to the newer 1997+ engines! Except... It comes with MULTIPLES of the same seals! So every little variation of seal through out the model years are covered. This kit really is a choose your own adventure set. Sealed Power 2601998 - Not bad for $150 and has mostly higher end Fel-Pro branded seals. Summit Racing has it cheaper for about $110, but they are constantly on back order for the item it seems. Even though it drop ships direct from Federal-Mogul's shipping depot in Kentucky.

I decided to cancel the stroker plans for this build out of budget concerns. As well, my LJ is making some weird bottom end noises so it gets priority on the 258 crankshaft. They are hard to come by and the LJ needs more power to turn those big tires. The belt pictured is actually manufactured by Goodyear for private label packages. I have used the Anchor mounts before and they are very good quality. The cherry red paint on the engine block looks darker on the can's cap, but it will appear darker in the recesses of a dim engine bay. I went with Rust-Oleum engine enamel this time since most claim it better than Duplicolor. I believe them for now at least since Duplicolor discolors the moment oil or gas hits it. The head is still being rebuilt so it is not painted yet. Still waiting for a few other parts to arrive to finish the engine assembly.(Head bolts, sensors, and timing chain.)

Usually anything you can not see on a concept vehicle trim of an existing vehicle line is exactly the same as the existing. So the interior and bed are probably exactly the same.

How many million Chrysler mini vans are in the junkyard with trashed trannies(and interiors) but fine sheet metal?? Many... Stupid 42RLE/42RE transmission. Any details yet?

The 1996 NP242 will work with the 1994 AW4 as long as the input shaft on the NP242 is the correct length.(Probably need a medium length shaft.) This is so mixed you will just have to figure it out. A NP242 behind another AW4 should have a medium length shaft in most cases. The NP242 is just as strong as the NP231 when in part time mode. In full time mode the power travels through other parts that are not as strong.

Oddly, mine from the 1997 has that tab as well. It will definitely work then!

I do not remember there being a difference. I would go for the same years to be safe.

I should be able to steal the timing cover off a 1987 4.0L to use on a 1997 4.0L, correct? The 1987 is still buried in the engine bay so I am not entirely sure.

Not necessarily important on new parts. On old shafts the U-Joints will wear in orientation to the parts it is hooked up to. I had the same problem on my Wrangler with the old shaft, but not with the new one.

I would have grabbed it for awesomeness! It grounds out a pin on the ECU that increases the idle to around 2,000RPM to have the alternator putting out higher amperage. It was typically found in police package and other service vehicle configurations.

The AW4 TCU will operate independently of the ECU and can be used with a manual TCU. The only difference between the automatic and manual ECU is the automatic one contains the code to pull diagnostic codes from the AW4 TCU. That is how 1997+ Wranglers get away with swapping in the AW4 is by swapping in a manual transmission ECU. For wiring you just need the appropriate harness for the transmission year and the correct year range of TCU. I believe you need a 1991 to 1995 ECU. After that it is wiring it up to power and a few other things. Do you have the throttle kick down cable and throttle body bracket for the AW4? If you have these already on your manual setup including the spot on the throttle body to hook the cable up you should be fine. If you do not you will need the matching bracket, kick down cable, gas peddle with cable, valve cover with cable guides, throttle body, and some wiring work. You will need a different transfer case or manage to find a 1991-1993 transfer case(23 spline, old gear cut) to scavenge an input from. The gearing cut on the input changed around 1993 so the newer input shafts will not swap cleanly into the old cases without some gear destroying carnage. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np ... _gears.htm

There were made in the USA up until 2001 mainly seen as part of fleet vehicles. There are several 1997 to 2001 two door models in the city maintenance parking garages around here. The higher end trim levels were generally only offered on four door models.

Keep it around, always a regret to sell a loved Jeep! If you were ever going to get rid of it I am not too far off in Alabama to come down to purchase it. Even have enough spare parts to toss an entire replacement drive train in place.

I do not know the answer to this one. No kids, no lover, no pets...

When you turn the heater on it opens the valve to allow hot coolant into the heater core. If your heat is working without it then the valve is also stuck open.

Just a quick inspection on the torn apart engine. Been busy with family matters so the past two weeks have been slow. 2_plnfffWmU

Yep! Helps to make up for the 2.5L being gutless. Double check under the firewall padding for rust. That foam likes to trap water and form rust.

So am I... I want it too. :P