Alexia

I already knew that my 1997 harness that loops around behind the seats does not have the power options. I have to shorten and remake that harness to properly fit inside the cab so I will be adding the appropriate wires to hook it up. The partially transparent white connector that contains all the pins for power options is empty in all the cavities except one. Nice part about this is that when I go to wire this up I can wire all the after market alarm wires in with the connector pins to make it look factory. Going to see if I can an automatic window up/down module for cheap. There are a lot of other wiring modifications I will be making to the harnesses especially for sound system and such. My goal is an overall factory like feel even if a purist can point at something being out of place.

Just some more parts! I did the calculations yesterday. $2,741.25 in cost so far. I have over $500 worth of parts to sell off plus an entire drive train. 1999 Intake Manifold to help the stroker breath better. These were installed on 1999 and up XJ and WJ models to help provide more consistent torque across the RPM range. It will not necessarily improve horsepower on a stock engine, but it is a big benefit for a modified engine. $60 for the manifold including the extra throttle body and sensors. I needed power door panels for the power options I picked up. Going all black with this interior. Still waiting on the other panel and interior pieces to arrive. $35 shipped per panel. Picked up a clean hood with smooth latches, working safety catch, and sound deadening pad. $45

Yes, I also think it looks like a great candidate to repair instead.

I would not hesitate to ask $7,000 for it. More if it was finished and in near perfect condition. It will take a while to sell at that price however.

Those are so nice people are going to start asking you to make them rear bumpers. :P

Looks good! Raptor sticks well if the surface was prepared well. Do not place anything on the liner for at least one week since it will cause it to flatten. It takes up to three weeks to fully harden. After that avoid dragging heavy objects over it. I still recommend putting wood down for those heavy objects. I sprayed this on the interior of my Wrangler back in 2008. Holding up well except for the areas where it did not adhere properly.(Mainly around the tie down hoops.) As for overall protection it is better than other liner products and plain paint. Still not as good as professional grade from Line-X.

I can set one up this weekend, probably Sunday. Going to be outside all day tomorrow cutting up the red Jeep into scrap.

Every time I have tried to do hop skip and jump upgrades of phpBB it usually results in that. This is why whenever we acquire an older phpBB site at work we just convert to IPB since it saves hassle. Best way to curb people that are not comfortable with change is to provide a preview(screenshots) of the new site ahead of time. Spam protection is really nice. It reduces our content team's work load fairly significantly.

My general experience with phpBB is to kill it with napalm. Nothing about it makes sense from a framework level.(At least until more recently.) However, it is a fairly lean running piece of software. Have you considered upgrading to the latest 3.x series? It does have much better support for site skins and there are mobile themes out there. As well, the 3.x series does support Tapatalk.

I definitely do not want to rock the boat here! I have plenty of experience with the people who hate any change syndrome. Added a new button to a site once that affected nothing, was only there for those that wanted the feature, but people complained that there was a new button. That is definitely a decision to take into thought. If you believe it would create mass negative opinion of the site upgrade then it may be best to leave things alone.

I always do a test conversion before the real live conversion. Back up the database, import it into a test site, and perform the test conversion. Then admins, mods, and those invited browse around the test site to make sure everything converts as expected. Anything that does not convert correctly gets the conversion code tweaked and then another test done. If for some reason the final live conversion would fail or have unexpected data loss I always take a database back up before the conversion so that the site can be reverted to its previous state within minutes.

$3,500 for a turbo stroker is CHEAP! Too cheap... :hmm: That's what I was thinking but didn't want to say it. It must be all used parts with no machine work to the motor. I have $300 into my stroker parts so far. 258 crankshaft, connecting rods, block, head, intake manifold. Once I am done with all the other parts and machining work I will be around $1,500 with a top budget of $2,000 for just the motor.(Does not include air intake filter/tube setup, exhaust, and other little things that help the power otherwise.) This is for a 4.7L stroker running around a 9.5:1 compression ratio. I am patient at finding the right deals. I looked up all the prices to go to a turbo for the best price and it easily added $3,000 on to the cost for mostly new parts. The turbo, exhaust manifold, and electronics being the biggest costs. It is possible to create your own manifold if you have the patience to do it correctly for the best flow. If you have the software and experience tuning it will significantly drop the costs of tuning the setup by avoiding dyno tuning fees.

"I just found out how rare these are and the price went (WAY) up." WOW Who told him?! Also, $10,000 is still way over priced! It will never sell.

$3,500 for a turbo stroker is CHEAP!

My coworker is close to finishing his drift car. He wants me to setup my Comanche for drifting and go at it. :P

The plastic clips that hold the linkage rods in place can also become worn causing them to bind or fall out of alignment. They are cheap to replace and can be found at most auto parts stores.

What about a rear bumper? :D

Give them a call and ask for Jason. He's an MJ guy and always knows what they currently have in stock. Said they do not have one. Funnier is that he said he needs one too so it probably disappear before I would even hear about it. :D

Not yet, they are only open when I am at work!

I am currently figuring out what all parts to put make a 4.7L stroker with a 1997 motor for my Comanche. Of course there is a lot more to this than what I listed below. The nice part is I live less than two hours away from Hesco who specialize in machining 4.0L engines for strokers. :D I have: 1997 NVH block, 1997 head 1999+ horseshoe intake 4.0L connecting rods Sourced or on the way: 258 crank, 3727 casting KB IC944 pistons, 0.060 over bore Lets not get into the part where I am considering putting a turbo on this...

I need a MJ rear bumper that is not bent. Surface rust is fine. I am in the northern Alabama area and not far from Nashville.

All those Comanches are gathered around the Grand Cherokee... "Sacrifice!" "That engine is mine!" "Dibs on the transmission!"

Yes, you can.

If you are pulling the motor in addition to the transmission, why are you bothering to separate them? Just pull both out as one unit and do the transmission swap with the ease of it being out of the vehicle.

Where are those pictures? :P