87MJTIM

I did some searching and research on mercury switches and thought it just wouldn't stop working. I decided to re-examine the unit and clean all the contact points. I finally got continuity from the + wire in to the light socket with the unit held vertical. I have not tested it to a battery yet. The light bulb needs replacing. Age and corrosion took its toll on the light .

Update: I re-examined the light again. The mercury switch didn’t look like it leaked. I couldn’t think of how it could go bad. I took sandpaper to the contact points and used pliers to bend the tabs. With the box held vertical, I have continuity on + and - wires!! I then tested the cord wheel to the light socket. Again, I used light sandpaper and contact cleaner spray to the contact disks. I have continuity on both wires. I put the two halves together and tested continuity from the + feed to the light socket. With the unit held horizontal it was open circuit. With the unit held vertical it has continuity. The - has continuity full time. Mercury delivers.

Found this:

Mercury switch. That’s the name. Are there aftermarket options rather than searching through JYs?

Does anyone know the name of or part number for the gravity activation switch in the light box? I have a light that is in decent shape and want to get it working. I can get continuity before the switch and after the switch. The switch is supposed to make contact when the box is tilted up.

If you have power locks and find that the driver's door just will not lock or unlock when you hit the switch, you should do this upgrade/fix to your wiring. I found this write up on both JeepForum and NAXJA.org. I will paste a link to the NAXJA since it is a little more concise in the write up. https://naxja.org/threads/greg-smith-power-door-locks-writeup-pre-1991.1874/ I followed Greg's instructions except for the power source. I spliced into the main power coming over from the driver's side and used a splitter from NAPA (part #784473). I cut the light green and tan wires and crimped on spade female connectors. These went directly to the relay terminals. I should have added more wire so the connections aren't as stretched. I did add wire to the power feed, as the photo shows. It isn't pretty, but you cannot see it with the kick panel in place. Verdict: DO IT! I now have working door locks from the driver's side.

Thanks. So a regular bike inner tube will work?

No, the topic is not a Johnny Carson "Carnac the Magnificent" sketch. My 4.0 has a bored out TB and the long term fuel trims according to the REM has risen to 135-140 (normal S/B 128). According to the RENIX Fuel Manual, an increased FT mean the engine is detecting a lean condition and is enriching the fuel mixture. I just installed a new MTS fuel pump/sending unit (see my earlier thread about the OE FP with a broken ground wire). I tested the fuel pressure and have 31 at idle and 39 with the vacuum removed. When I turn off the engine, the FP hold steady for 15+ minutes. The REM shows the O2 sensor working as it should - voltage rising and dropping from 1.00 to 4.98. Other things I found: When I remove the cap for the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, fuel leaks out. It does not leak with the cap on. Should it be leaking at all? The engine will idle around 750 +/-. It will periodically drop to 550+/- and stumble, but rises up again to 750. I cannot find any 'obvious' vacuum leaks that allows un-metered air in. Would the bored out TB, which is allowing more air, cause the rise in LTFT? (PS - it was operating within the normal range prior to the restoration. At that time, it had the old FP and the bored out TB.)

I've seen this guy's videos on other vehicles and brands. A SHORT history of the Comanche.

They know when the warranty expires.

The clock fuse is only hot in run. The fuse that is hot at all times for the clock is the ETR. I would suggest you check the grounds for the radio. Cruiser was always harping on grounds. My experience was with the clock. It would sometimes display or display very dimly. I did Cruiser's instrument panel ground upgrade and the clock displays bright now. To quote the Beach Boys: "Ground, ground, get a ground, i need a ground." (or something like that.)

If it smells like antifreeze, then your heater core is leaking. If it is just water, then there several possibilities, including all the options above. Check the condensation drain opening. From the engine bay, there is a pipe coming out of the firewall below and to the right of the blower motor. Disconnect the short hose (if still attached) and clean out the pipe.

I like yours more. I like the pictures, both front and back. (I don't like being 'free advertising' for any business that isn't paying me. I am not crazy about the front decal for Offroad Outfitter.)

I don't remember if this was posted before, but I will (re)post this link. I saw this on FB. https://www.offroad-outfitter.com/collections/mens/products/mj-blueprint-t-shirt They have hoodies also.

Fuel gauge has worked fine.