87MJTIM

any markings on it? put something next to it to give a size reference. It looks like some of the bulbs on the dash backlights from my Honda CRV.

Your symptom are a little similar to mine. I have trouble shifting in 1st at a stop when warm. Shifting out of 1st into 2nd is very notchy. All other gears are "fine," just slightly notchy. Reverse is ALWAYS grinding, unless I shift into 4th then R. I too was wondering if my synchroes were going bad. My searching the 'net lead me to a bad hydro clutch system. See attached https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/ax-15-won't-go-into-1st-when-warm.748660/?post_id=6969186#post-6969186 I have a "pre bled" hydro clutch. It does not have a bleed screw. I tried to follow some videos on "gravity" bleeding the clutch. Remove the whole system from the vehicle. mount the master cyl up high, with the slave cyl down low. Slowly pump the slave push rod to force any air up to the master. This method has not solved the problem. Has anyone ever disconnected the line from the master cyl, drained the hydro fluid and added fresh fluid? The line is held in by a roll pin.

How old is the lower radiator hose? Is it collapsing at high RPMs?

The ASD is one of the relays on the passenger side between the batt and firewall. RE: not starting - what does it do (not do)? Does it crank but not start? When you turn on the key, but not turn to Start, do you hear the fuel pump turn on?

Two of the wire go to the reverse lights. It looks like there are more than 2 wires in the loom, thou.

I'll throw my 2¢ in - have you checked for vacuum leaks? Mine was idling rough - 800 down to 500 rpms - with STFT down to 0. It felt like it would cut out at any second. I had a cracked vacuum line from the MAP to the TB. Fixed this and the idle is better. However, STFT is still low - 30-50.

FYI MJ cap $350 - not mine

Knock sensor is toward the front. Coolant sensor is toward the rear.

RockAuto https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4216479&cc=1181584&pt=1440&jsn=590

with or without cruise?

I believe the pre-97 hydraulic master/slave kits will work for your (our) era Jeep. The 97+ have a different master cyl that may not fit. You can get one from a JY. But, RockAuto has one for $100 (plus tax and shipping). https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7325656&cc=1180314&pt=10290&jsn=600. Probably a lot less work. Just my 2¢.

To answer your questions: You could keep the original master cyl. However, you will need to match the slave cyl for the bore. It may be easier to purchase a pre-bled master/slave kit. The input tip on that year's AX15 is larger than the tip of a BA10. Yes, you will need to change the pilot bearing/bushing. Search RockAuto for a PB for a 1973 CJ5 with a 304 cu. in. I won't swear to the front axle. I swapped a 93 D30 (non-CAD) and did not change the MC. (I just recently swapped booster and MC to a 95/96 XJ.) I did a BA10 to AX15 swap years ago. I will have to think about the steps again.

As far as I know, his info is still correct. You will need a Ouija board to communicate with him.

You may want to start a new topic. Cruiser54 is no longer with us.

I was checking CC on Friday and did not see new postings. I began to wonder if there was a web problem. Glad everyone is alive and well.