Akula69

Eagle - Does 100% Synthetic DOT 3+4 qualify as silicone? I looked at the bottle but it does not say.....

I have two. One rebuilt (without fuel pump) and one not rebuilt (with used fuel pump). PM for details but rebuilt is 125.00 and non-rebuilt is 80.00 (plus shipping).

Wow. It must have a hella battery setup to power the AC and exterior lights :rotf:

John is correct. Having worked here thru Katrina and the aftermath, there are several important things: Take your important papers, in a zip-lock AND inside a Tupperware container. Get the people out...and pets. Plan and re-check the route (remember the 6 P's) DON'T come back in until the authorities say so. It will be almost irresistible to do the "looky-see", but don't. You will just endanger yourself and put more of a burden on the first responders. There is no water, no food, scared and rabid animals, and looters. There is nothing you cannot replace except your life.

Huh. We called it 'Whale S..T" cause it smells so bad....

I have one for a long bed you can have for the price of shipping if you want. Of course you'd have to cut it down.

Hells creek sold us a set of metric tons for 500.00. other then a small amount of surface rust they have settled in nicely, and I have not found the ride to be that different....

Not really. A small bore punch directly on the stiffening wire is the way. I have one that is about 8 inches long that I wrap with masking tape (protect the crank bearing surfaces). Once the top seal is partially out you can usually push it with your finger the rest of the way. In really difficult cases I have loosened (not removed) mains 5 and 6 - allows the crank to move just enough to loosen the seal up. Good luck!

OK - after replacing all three solonoids the old transmission feels like new again! So far (approx. 100 miles), the codes have not returned and the transmission is shifting crisply in all gears. Thanks for all the help! Jake

I always take your advice! When my son and I converted Junior we cleaned and checked these and every other connector (unlike when we did his and chased a 'no bus' condition around for awhile....)

I'm with you on this one, but I figured mentioning the other poster's comment might spark some additional thoughts. AFAIK, the torque converter is simply a fluid coupling...but it does affect pressure. I've never known anyone who has experienced a bad one (kinda one of those parts that hangs on forever). I do have an older (small) trans cooler on this rig and did replace the OD solenoid with a mopar part. if all else fails I suppose I could try a larger cooler.

Thanks for the input Don. Yeah, I've heard about the aftermarket sensor issues - actually had them with this MJ on the TPS and the CKP....had to lay out the $$$ for the mopar sensors.... :doh: Did use the ohmmeter on the harness (forgot to mention that in the original post) and was getting approximately 12.9 ~ 13.6 on the scale (which would seem to indicate good..?) One of the posters in the thread talked about the torque converter itself...but if that was weak or malfunctioning I imagine the other transmission actions would reflect that.

Basically, just what the title says. The 2000 AW4 in Junior is misbehaving...throwing the P705 code which translates into the OD solenoid is not 'electrically' checking out upon start. I have replaced the solenoid and it worked for awhile but now has started to throw the code again. The problem is the OD works occasionally and has no pattern to its misbehavior. Over the weekend the truck was driven to Hattiesburg and back - OD worked on the way up and did not on the way back (which would seem to indicate fluid circulation and/or warm up is not the case). When the solenoid was replaced the filter and fluid was changed out - no particular debris or dirt was observed (filter and fluid had been changed when the trans was installed at conversion). Because the solenoid is mechanical (activated by an electrical signal) can the TCM be the culprit here? When the truck is started, does the TCM physically actuate the solenoid or just check to see if it worked the last time the truck was running? Thanks Jake

X2, and we still had to use two floor jacks and a rachet strap attached to an eye bolt on the wall of the garage.

Great info Don - glad it worked for you. I had already switched to 134a when we re-worked both the trucks...but If I still had 12 I'd go this route. One lb cans of R-12 (when you can find them) are about $600.00 each down here now :doh: