BLHTAZ Posted January 26, 2008 Author Share Posted January 26, 2008 Yea...he is 24 and very responsible & trustworthy. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 I got the TS195 switch and installed it last night. Now all I have to do is get the engine hot enought to make sure it works as it is supposed to. How's the fan working? Got any start / stop temps using the TS195? Well...still no luck :cry: . I can't get it hot enough. I drove it for over 30 miles yesterday, ran the AC for a while, but it still would not get over 190 ... :brows: I guess I will try letting it set in the driveway with the AC running and see if it will heat up better while just at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 Well...still no luck :cry: . I can't get it hot enough. I drove it for over 30 miles yesterday, ran the AC for a while, but it still would not get over 190 ... :brows: I guess I will try letting it set in the driveway with the AC running and see if it will heat up better while just at idle. don't drive it. let it sit and idle driving it cools it, by allowing air to pass through the radiator. letting it sit, no air flows (or not very much). so, idle it. it'll take 40 min. or so on average (well, thats on my 3.8 but...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjbliley Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 If you want it to get hot. Run it in the driveway with cardboard in front o f the radiator. Block the airflow and run the AC. You will see the temp come up very nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 If you want it to get hot. Run it in the driveway with cardboard in front o f the radiator. Block the airflow and run the AC. You will see the temp come up very nicely. HMMM... didn't think of that. I have to go out and change the battery wiring harness first, but then I will take it for a short drive to get it warming up and come home to let it sit so I don't have to wait so long fo it to warm up. Temp is only in the 50's here so I'm sure the driving is a big hindrance to heating up ;) . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 Well...still no luck :cry: . I can't get it hot enough. I drove it for over 30 miles yesterday, ran the AC for a while, but it still would not get over 190 ... :brows: I guess I will try letting it set in the driveway with the AC running and see if it will heat up better while just at idle. Well that's a good thing. :D Reason I'm asking is because I will be using this switch on my main electric fan when I replace the nechanical fan. Want it to kick in about 10-15 degrees ahead of my OE aux fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 :cry: No good news unfortunately... :cry: I drove it and got it up to about 185-190, brought it home and parked it in the sun, covered the whole front end with a big trash bag and got it to start heating up. It went up to 230, but the fan never came on... :hmm: I did check to be sure that there was power coming to the switch...no problem. I crossed the spades with my test light and the fan comes on. Guess I will have to wire in a manual switch for now until I can do more research to find a switch that will work. I am not in a big hurry to wire in the manual one as it doesn't seem to even need the electric fan right now, but when the weather starts to heat up in a couple months, I'm sure it will be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 :cry: No good news unfortunately... :cry: I drove it and got it up to about 185-190, brought it home and parked it in the sun, covered the whole front end with a big trash bag and got it to start heating up. It went up to 230, but the fan never came on... :hmm: I did check to be sure that there was power coming to the switch...no problem. I crossed the spades with my test light and the fan comes on. Guess I will have to wire in a manual switch for now until I can do more research to find a switch that will work. I am not in a big hurry to wire in the manual one as it doesn't seem to even need the electric fan right now, but when the weather starts to heat up in a couple months, I'm sure it will be needed. Weird. I bench tested one with a heat gun and wired it across a relay coil and it switched ON and OFF, but I didn't measure the temps. Back to the drawing board. :cry: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 I am not giving up on finding the right one and will keep this thread updated as I find any info. Let me know if you find anything else on your end too :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 I'm thinking the stat housing may be the wrong place to mount the temp switch. The stock temp control switch for the aux fan is on the engine block, left side, and it closes and applies a ground (not power) to the ECU when the coolant temp reaches the high limit. The ECU then sends a ground to the aux fan relay coil to turn on the fan. Maybe the stat housing doesn't get hot enough to close the temp switch? Just guessing here........ :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 Gotta remember that mine is an '88 so I don't have all of the ECU stuff to deal with. My original switch was mounted in the radiator lower left side. They used to make a tube with a bung in it that you would cut the lower radiator hose and splice it in to mount the original switch when doing this type of change, but those can not be found any more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 Ouch - forgot that. But the operating principle is basically the same, just no ECU involved. :cheers: I found this thread on JU: http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/sh ... ost8208927 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 OK..I am starting to believe that the issue is the t-stat housing is not getting hot enough because it is aluminum and it sits right where the mechanical fan blows on it constantly. I am going to start looking for a way to mount it in a better location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 Yeah, me too. I'm thinking the best location will be where the aux fan sensor sits now on the left side of the block (at least on my HO). I'll just tee in the new sensor there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 I had a thought about using one of these as well... Image Not Found It is a push through the radiator sensor from a Hayden Electric fan that I had on our YJ for a short time. It was still in the radiator of the YJ so I pulled it out, but it is not long enough to go through the MJ radiator. I also found this site... www.the-fan-man.com I have emailed them with questions about one of the switches that they are offering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Is it possible to switch the tank from the original radiator to the new open system one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 Is it possible to switch the tank from the original radiator to the new open system one?Are you asking about the plastic bottle back on the firewall? If so...yes...I just plugged the bottom hole and ran a rubber hose from the radiator to the nipple on the end of the tank to use it as an overflow. It's working fine so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Is it possible to switch the tank from the original radiator to the new open system one?Are you asking about the plastic bottle back on the firewall? If so...yes...I just plugged the bottom hole and ran a rubber hose from the radiator to the nipple on the end of the tank to use it as an overflow. It's working fine so far. No, I was referring to the ends of the radiator. If you could take the end off the original radiator that has the sensor port on it and swap it with the end on the new radiator. I know some radiators if the end cracks you can just replace the end instead of the whole radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 That might be possible if you are swapping a "like" radiator, but I went to a 3 row so it's quite different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 I swapped a regular 2-core from a later model XJ into my 88. Fit right in and now I have a radiator cap. :D I retained the rest closed system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Okay Brent, here's how I plan to control my new electric fan. I'm going to put this inline thermostat (ON 190*, OFF 180*, it'll bolt right in) Image Not Found in the radiator tranny cooler line AN fitting right under my filler cap Image Not Found and use it to apply a ground to my new fan relay. Think it'll work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 It sounds like a good plan. 8) I am not 100% sure of anything anymore after all the time I took to research mine and still have not come up with a workable solution yet though ;) . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted February 16, 2008 Author Share Posted February 16, 2008 IT WORKS!!!! :D I did some more searching and found that Hayden makes an adjustable controller with a 1/8" threaded sensor. I went to Lowes and bought a 3/8 to 1/8 bushing and went to work. I found the Hayden controller on Amazon for $44.14 with free shipping. Hayden part# 3651 Adjustable from 90 - 210 degrees. Moved the ballast resistor down and mounted controller here Fished the power supply through the wire loom on the front harness over to the battery. Screwed in the sensor, wired the rest according to the instructions and DONE!! Yes...I know my engine is a mess. I have a VC gasket waiting to be installed ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted February 17, 2008 Share Posted February 17, 2008 nice job! Is the wire loom still going across the condenser/rad though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted February 17, 2008 Author Share Posted February 17, 2008 nice job! Is the wire loom still going across the condenser/rad though?Yea...that has always been there. I have never looked to see what it's for or why it's there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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