AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 This is not a job that is going to complete quickly (do any really). Problem is I had no way to know what was coming when I pulled it in the garage somewhat sideways taking up way more room that normally taken. And it's kinda stuck there. Do towing companies generally have anything they can use to move a vehicle that doesn't have all the wheels installed? I'd like to get it out of the garage and put back on the slab at the end of the driveway where it normally lives while this plays out so I can have my garage back in the mean time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 32 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Yeah, well probably good for you cause I would have probably asked you to help install it too I'm known for doing just that. you can try using a harbor freight car dolly and putting it under that corner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 I am not surprised! I think you are off the hook @Pete M... if my video file can be played it will be more convincing although perhaps it will have to be downloaded to play. If not I know pictures work. I have not tried a video before. In short, the 3/4-16 Die appears to have worked much better than I expected. I have undoubtedly used up all my luck points for at least the first 6 months of 25. MVI_0078.AVI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 Looks good 👍. Glad to see it turned out to be a easy fix (no axle swapping) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llhat Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 i'd give a big thumbs UP and proceed as normal!!! U get the seal out?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 28 Author Share Posted March 28 11 hours ago, llhat said: U get the seal out?? I tried a bit but didn't push it too far yet. I checked at Napa and they didn't have a matching replacement and didn't even see anything that looked like the seal on the rotors I have. I looked online and didn't find one that looked like that one either, so I was hesitant to beat it up too much. I am considering just replacing the rotors with ones that have easily available support parts. Would solve the problem of finding the seals that match the rotors I have now (which will have to be replaced sooner or later anyway), and maybe next time around the search would be easier. That's where that's at now anyway. But if a part number for the ones I need should happen to show up here, I might decide to go that way. Decisions, decisions... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 29 Author Share Posted March 29 Test drive after reassembly, the same sound is still there, and it still goes away when I veer left. It may be a bit less loud or I might just think it is. I swapped front wheels but the sound did not change, still goes away on veer left. When I started this, I first checked for wiggle on the wheel with the truck jacked up, and got some wiggle top/bottom on the right side. This lead to disassembly of the right side and the discovery of the mangled threads. I did not feel any wiggle when I checked the left side. During debug and attempting to verify if the nut from the right side was good or bad I did remove the nut on the left side so I could try the nut there (it was bad or the wrong thread [potentially the cause of the thread damage in the first place]). Once both sides were fully reassembled I checked for any wiggle at the rotors before putting the wheels back on and there was none. But with the wheels on, I do feel a little wiggle on both sides now. The only thing I have done so far now is shake my head in disbelief that the "good" side is now also not good! Can't think why if the rotors don't wiggle, why there would be a little wiggle with the wheel on and the wheel lugs tight. My only guess at the moment that when I took off the nut on the left, then put it back, it somehow is not tight enough. I just hand tightened both sides, moving the rotor a bit to seat well, then just slightly snugged again with a wrench, maybe 1/8 of a turn. Do I need to put a torque wrench on and torque to some value? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokinn Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 Hornbrod - May 8, 2010 This is true. The correct method for the 2WDs is to tighten the bearing nut to 17-25 ft. lbs while rotating the wheel to seat the new bearings/races. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn and retighten to 19 in-lbs of torque. Also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llhat Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 you indicated reassembly, did you remove both bearings and clean and examine the rollers and races? if your noise remains and you did not do this, will probably continue to make noise also follow that posted above on seating, In all my years never used a torque wrench... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 The right side was disassembled cleaned and inspected, bearings repacked and then reassembled. This was the side that was originally wiggling slightly and the side I repaired threads. This is also the side I pictured that I could not get the back side seal out. In trying to do that the rubber was damaged so I know that is another problem to fix, but I am assuming the rubber on the back side seal is not immediately necessary, that is, that won't cause noise or wobble at least on 1 day. At the moment I have not removed the left side because I am pretty sure I won't be able to get that inner side seal out either so until I resolve the right side I am not messing with the left side further. What I am trying to understand is why the left side has a little wiggle now and it didn't before. I did remove the nut so I could verify the nut for the right side was correct thread, and to test the replacement nut for the right side was also the correct thread, but I did not touch the left rotor at that time, so it sure seems to me that I SHOULD be able to re-tighten the left side nut and not have any wiggle since it didn't wiggle before. If I can't even re-tighten a nut on a "non=wiggling" assembly and have it not wiggle, my confidence that I can put on all new hardware with success is pretty weak! So I am trying to understand this, and learn what I need to learn on the hardware I have before going further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 20 hours ago, rokinn said: Hornbrod - May 8, 2010 This is true. The correct method for the 2WDs is to tighten the bearing nut to 17-25 ft. lbs while rotating the wheel to seat the new bearings/races. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn and retighten to 19 in-lbs of torque. Also I like the video. It doesn't say anything about the 17-25 torquing followed the the 19 torquing? So not clear on which method you are recommending..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokinn Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 The video does say to torque to 12 ft/lbs for seating the bearing. The point would be to seat the bearing with more than the 19 inch/lbs while rotating the rotor. Just finger tightening alone will not seat the bearing and will be loose when it's all put back together. When I did mine one worked well and the other was loose and I had to go back and do it over to get it set properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 Ah OK, I think I got it! Will give that a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 3 Author Share Posted April 3 I have now repacked bearings on both sides and re-seated both sides so there is no wiggle. I think the first pass issue might be that "finger tight" for me now is not as much torque as it used to be, so I had to assist just a smidge with tools. My low roar is still there unchanged with this completed and also front wheels swapped . The bearings don't look at all damaged. I went ahead and ordered new rotors (ones for which dust seal are still available) and new bearings and I'll get them in sometime in the near future. If the roar is still there then I guess I just have to let it roar until I get new tires and just maybe somehow that is still the cause (although I would have though it would have changed when I swapped them if that was it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llhat Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 just following up to see if this is sorted.... one can examine the outer cup surface and the rollers visually, but the issue could be on the cone where the rollers contact... not much way to examine that surface without destroying the cage there's still the possibility of a bad bearing if there's no improvement on the noise.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 8 Author Share Posted April 8 Some bad weather, and the annual IRS documentation prep and some misc other stuff have taken the front seat for a bit, so there is no change cause I haven't gotten to the next step yet. My limited mechanic dialog doesn't understand cup, roller or cage, but hopefully those items are addressed by replacing rotors, bearings and pads since that is the next step I have planned. Sometime over the next few days I hope to get back to this work, will post the result...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llhat Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 understood, Cup is the 'race' that is in the hub on each end The bearing itself is composed of the cup, and..... Roller is the cylindrical bearing Cage is over the rollers and retains them cone goes over the spindle, rollers ride on it. You cannot see the cone without breaking the cage and removing the rollers, don't do this unless you have a new bearing... but you can do a post-mortem on the assembly The rollers can have bad spots, but you may be able to see them when cleaned cup same way, visible wear any wear (spalling, fretting, pitting, etc) can make the bearing roar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 its possible that those loose/damaged spindle threads have damaged the existing bearings in ways you cannot see completely. The cost of wheel bearings listed on Rock Auto is so cheap I would just plunk the cash down for all new bearings and seals and remove any doubts about those elements from the equation on any source of the noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 10 Author Share Posted April 10 On 4/8/2025 at 3:25 PM, llhat said: understood, Cup is the 'race' that is in the hub on each end The bearing itself is composed of the cup, and..... Roller is the cylindrical bearing Cage is over the rollers and retains them cone goes over the spindle, rollers ride on it. You cannot see the cone without breaking the cage and removing the rollers, don't do this unless you have a new bearing... but you can do a post-mortem on the assembly The rollers can have bad spots, but you may be able to see them when cleaned cup same way, visible wear any wear (spalling, fretting, pitting, etc) can make the bearing roar. Ah, I have been dialog enhanced, good to speak the same language ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 10 Author Share Posted April 10 8 hours ago, AZJeff said: its possible that those loose/damaged spindle threads have damaged the existing bearings in ways you cannot see completely. The cost of wheel bearings listed on Rock Auto is so cheap I would just plunk the cash down for all new bearings and seals and remove any doubts about those elements from the equation on any source of the noise. I have new bearings in hand and hope to get back to this job shortly. I am hoping there may be a bad bearing in the lot somewhere that will be gone once I do the full swap and take the roar with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 13 Author Share Posted April 13 The lion has been tamed! Installed today - new rotors, new bearings with lots of grease worked in, new caliper springs and slide pins, and new pads just because I had it all apart and it was going to be time before long anyway, and the roar is no more! Thanks for all the assist! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 14 Share Posted April 14 victory!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 14 Author Share Posted April 14 Yep, now if I can get Midas to honor the lifetime parts & labor muffler contract I bought in 1999, my truck will be so quiet I'll be able to hear my radio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted April 14 Share Posted April 14 5 hours ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Yep, now if I can get Midas to honor the lifetime parts & labor muffler contract I bought in 1999, my truck will be so quiet I'll be able to hear my radio. Sounds like time to build a louder radio....lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 4 hours ago, watchamakalit said: Sounds like time to build a louder radio....lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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