Bumpy ride!!!

[Pete M]

there's probably a WJ arm writeup in here: 

 

[NC Tom]

Alright folks, I'm getting pissed trying to order tie rods and ball joints off Rock Auto!

 

Ball Joints: Do I want adjustable or non-adjustable?

 

Tie Rods: Can't figure out what I need. Seems like the descriptions are lacking crucial/consistent info. Some mention "outer" or "inner"; some mention Thread direction; some say Pass or Driver, but none are the same and I don't want to deal with not having the right part when I need it. I don't know this stuff and don't want to guess.

 

Rock Auto is also trying to upsell special tools for install. Is that worth it?

 

It's a BIG ask, but can anyone just clarify this for me? Something I can use to identify the correct parts?

 

I know, I may have to give up my "Man Card".

[89 MJ]

You're going to love this answer. Its really hard to say with ball joints because each axle will need something different. And you don't always know until after you get it apart. You might need knurled ball joints or oversized or maybe regular ones would be fine. I doubt that you'll need adjustable ones though. A ball joint press will make your life much easier for removing these. 

 

For the tie rods, you'll need to look at what you've got now to see if they are right hand or left hand threads, but I would go with whatever Moog options match what you've got. 

 

You're going to need an alignment when you're done doing all of this work, so I would strongly consider taking it to a shop if I were you. Tell them you want quality parts and just pay them to do the work. 

[ghetdjc320]

1 hour ago, NC Tom said:

Alright folks, I'm getting pissed trying to order tie rods and ball joints off Rock Auto!

 

Ball Joints: Do I want adjustable or non-adjustable?

 

Tie Rods: Can't figure out what I need. Seems like the descriptions are lacking crucial/consistent info. Some mention "outer" or "inner"; some mention Thread direction; some say Pass or Driver, but none are the same and I don't want to deal with not having the right part when I need it. I don't know this stuff and don't want to guess.

 

Rock Auto is also trying to upsell special tools for install. Is that worth it?

 

It's a BIG ask, but can anyone just clarify this for me? Something I can use to identify the correct parts?

 

I know, I may have to give up my "Man Card".

If you’re not upgrading the tie rod to the ZJ version then this is what you need (see pic). The parts below don’t replace the drag link which has a tie rod end integrated for the passenger wheel. If you need to replace that too than add Moog part number DS1238. Spray your ball joints with some PB blaster or similar a couple of times a few days before you’re planning to remove them (or have them removed by a mechanic). If you’re going to remove them, you’ll need a good quality ball joint press (OTC makes a great one) and the appropriate Jeep adapter cup. It can be done using other methods/tools but I’ve never had any damage to the inner C using the above tools and new stock replacement ball joints went right in place without issue. 
 

[ratrapp]

you shouldnt need adjustable ball joints and you wouldnt know which ones you needed unless you went to an alignment shop and they said you needed them as thats the only way camber is adjusted on the jeep axle.

[NC Tom]

@89 MJ@ghetdjc320@ratrapp

 

Ok, you guys have made disappointing but valid points. I honestly thought this would be a unbolt, replace, tighten type of repair. I see now it looks to be specialized. I hate that, because I'm tired of garages marking up parts, literally, 500%! It's just a damn money grab.

[89 MJ]

The tie rod could be a quick bolt in repair with some careful measuring. The ball joints would maybe (dare I even say probably) be just the regular stock replacement ones. But it could also turn into a big debacle really quick that leaves your MJ out of commission and in your way while you're waiting for parts to arrive. 

[ghetdjc320]

I would dare to say that the ball joints will be a bolt in swap provided the old ones are extracted properly. I’ve never had to use a knurled or alternative design to the Dana 76944x joints. I’ve only done about (5) d30 axles’ ball joints but they were from a wide range of years (88-05) and the spicer part number fit them all without issues. But I can’t emphasize enough proper extraction with the right tool. You may be able to rent a similar tool from your local auto parts store. 

[watchamakalit]

11 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

I would dare to say that the ball joints will be a bolt in swap provided the old ones are extracted properly. I’ve never had to use a knurled or alternative design to the Dana 76944x joints. I’ve only done about (5) d30 axles’ ball joints but they were from a wide range of years (88-05) and the spicer part number fit them all without issues. But I can’t emphasize enough proper extraction with the right tool. You may be able to rent a similar tool from your local auto parts store. 

My sentiments exactly. I have never run into a need for anything other than stock replacements. Me personally I would put stock ball joints back in it and take it to the alignment shop of choice. Good chance it all goes green. 

[NC Tom]

You guys have been very helpful. I think I'll go back to the beginning, like was suggested, and start with what "needs" to be addressed. Anyone have a good source for what I'll be doing and looking for? Sorry to be so needy, but I prefer fairly specific guidance for this type of thing. At least for the first time I try it.

 

@89 MJ posted, "Everything in the steering should be moving together and have no play."

 

I am assuming this means that there should be no delay between components during movement?

 

[89 MJ]

4 minutes ago, NC Tom said:

@89 MJ posted, "Everything in the steering should be moving together and have no play."

 

I am assuming this means that there should be no delay between components during movement?

You are correct. If you’ve got a helper, you could just watch all of the steering linkage as they turn back and forth. If you’ve don’t have a helper, you could set your phone up to take a video and do the same. 

[NC Tom]

I did some poking around today and basically found nothing. Had the front end on jack stands, my son turned the wheel back and fourth and nothing seemed to be wrong. No clunks or creaks, nothing looked or felt sloppy. I have little to no movement with the ball joints using the "pry bar under a tire" method. The only movement I found is illustrated here:

 

 

[89 MJ]

No movement in the ball joints is good news. That will save a headache and some money. The parts that you took pictures of are your sway bar end links in the first picture and your sway bar bushings in your second picture. The good news is that those are fairly cheap and easy to replace. I don't think that I will be the source of your troubles though. The job of the sway bar is to control side to side lean in corners for the most part, so in the grand scheme of things, it isn't necessary.

 

You could pull the sway bar and end links off and then drive it a little bit to see if that fixes the issue, but be warned, the handling will be a little funky. If it cures your problem, then order the sway bar bushings and end links. If it doesn't fix the issue, maybe try the test again with the vehicle's weight on the ground. 

 

Really, it looks like you need end links and bushings either way, but I don't think that it is the cause of your issues.