Jump to content

check your battery cables! lucky i still have my manche..


Recommended Posts

The positive cable in my 86 once shorted out on the exhaust manifold. :D It's very important to keep the securely tied up.

And this has very little to do with checking you cables, but a couple months after buying a high-output alternator for my 88, it shorted internally and the ampage caused the cable's plastic coating to catch fire... :eek: ...while I was driving. :eek: :eek:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I redid all my batt cables as well as my winch cables last year with my 200amp alt upgrade. BIG DIFFERENCE!!!

 

I got a big crimp-er from work, also got the cabling from work.

Last spring, we tore down one of our X-Ray rooms and this huge fine stranded wire was what it used. The contractor wanted the stuff for scrap, but as it wasn't in his quote, I got the wire!! :brows: :brows:

 

I bought some big shrink tubing and made them to the exact lengths I wanted. Nice and clean. Its in my write up in projects and linked in my signature.

Truck runs better, starts faster and I like it better!!!

 

CW

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I redid all my batt cables as well as my winch cables last year with my 200amp alt upgrade. BIG DIFFERENCE!!!

 

I got a big crimp-er from work, also got the cabling from work.

Last spring, we tore down one of our X-Ray rooms and this huge fine stranded wire was what it used. The contractor wanted the stuff for scrap, but as it wasn't in his quote, I got the wire!! :brows: :brows:

 

I bought some big shrink tubing and made them to the exact lengths I wanted. Nice and clean. Its in my write up in projects and linked in my signature.

Truck runs better, starts faster and I like it better!!! CW

 

In case you're not fortunate to have access to a BF crimper like CW jamminz.gif , Jon Kelly sells high quality heavy ready made cables reasonably priced on his web site:

 

http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am looking to do this as my cables are looking rough. What lengths/gauges are the cables?

 

I just went to auto zone and looked em up. Anything was better than what i had.

 

I used to work on houseboats and had access to the HD crimpers and cable. You could get some serious heavy gauge stuff then..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am looking to do this as my cables are looking rough. What lengths/gauges are the cables?

 

 

I usually get the largest gauge I can get for regular vehicular applications and made my own to go with the HO alt in the 88.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

get those springs in your ride yet??? Hopefully i will have my trackbar mount tomorrow and be back on the road.

 

nah i have been to lazy to do it....was going to start monday after my buddies brake job but the rain came so i put it off...LOL...there ready to go in tho..all clean and shiny again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but ..

 

I took the advice of you guys and had the pleasure of ordering from Jon Kelley and getting some battery cables from him. Not only does he provide a top notch product, but his service/communication was outstanding. Check him out here at http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/

 

I only have had a chance to install the three 'main cables' but I also ordered the replacement engine to firewall ground and bi to fenderwell ground. Here are some shots of the battery cables.

 

Comparison of the new and old. 1g wire is pure beef.

What my negative cable looked like going into the engine block. Ps that but holding them down was stuck to the stud. had to put some vice grips on the stud and turn the nut with a wrench to break it free.

Comparing negative cables-

 

It appears the PO replaced the B+ to Starter cable some time ago. It was in decent shape for the most part. I did find that when that was replaced he just stripped 1 inch of the green wire going into the starter and wrapped it around the stud. I cleaned that up with a ring terminal and some heat shrink. All around super happy with this mod/repair and I am looking forwad to installing the remaining two cables.

 

Speaking of which. Any easy way to bust loose the 11/16s nut holding the ground strap to the engine block near the 6 cyl? I couldn't even get close to it with a socket and a open ended wrench had no movement to do anything with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

highlife :beerhead:

 

that beer was instrumental in me finishing that project. Hooked everything up and went to start it *nothing*. Tried tighening this, that, the other, nothing. Got a beer, drank it, calmmed down, thought about the problem. Brushed the stud for the starting solenoid off, reconnected, *starts right up*. Had to give the HighLife some credit. Way I figure is that the previous wire to the solenoid wore itself in and corrosion built up other places, since this was thicker it landed at a different spot on the stud and needed some brushing for a solid contact.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep...my cables were a mess too.

 

 

I never could get the ground loose from the block. I ended up just cutting it off and mounting the new ground a little lower on the block with a bolt in an unused threaded hole just below and in front of the oil filter. ;)

 

Got my new cables from the dealership though...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So which kit (how many cables) did everyone get from Jon Kelly?

I need to replace mine and I know I can get them from the dealer for under $90 but Jon's look much beefier and I do believe that I am having some of the floating ground problems that he described on the website.

 

Thanks,

Ron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So which kit (how many cables) did everyone get from Jon Kelly?

I need to replace mine and I know I can get them from the dealer for under $90 but Jon's look much beefier and I do believe that I am having some of the floating ground problems that he described on the website.

 

Thanks,

Ron

 

I got the 3 main calbes (B- to Engine Block, B+ to Starter, B+ to Solenoid), the Engine to Firewall ground, and the B- to Fenderwell ground. I haven't installed the other grounds yet. Jon said that since I haven't added a super alternator that this was a good setup for me. Also ordered a set of battery clamps from him.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know I can get them from the dealer for under $90
That's doing pretty god. You must know someone there or have access to a wholesale account. List price on it is $104 and I can get them for you for about $75 plus shipping ;)

 

 

Yeah, I do get hooked up at the dealer...... I've been buying parts from them for 10 years. What sucks now is that I don't live there anymore, but my parents do. So I have to get my dad to pick stuff up and I get them on weekends that I visit.

 

This weekend I'm getting a new EGR valve. My dealer price was less than an aftermarket one. jamminz.gif

 

Its not always a better price but if its close, I try to get it from the dealer. OEM ya know. :roll:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ever tried these BT 703 battery cable clamps?

 

http://www.tsunamionline.com/product.php?id=37

 

The trouble with that design is it will allow moisture to stay in contact with the wires. Same with the clamp style "repair" ends available at parts stores. Not worth the trouble.

 

IMHO, there is only two styles to use. The factory one piece cable or marine style solder/crimp on cable ends WITH shrink tubing. Both will keep out moisture and make for a MUCH longer life of the cable.

 

For the trouble, if you have a stock setup, just get the factory stuff and rest easy.

 

If you have multiple batteries or a winch or a allot of current draw from lights and amps or a winch. its time to consider an upgrade. This should include and better battery, higher amperage alternator and bigger wires. DC electric is very similar to a water pipe, more water means larger pipes. More current draw means larger wires. Running too much current through too small a wire creates resistance. This resistance creates heat, too much heat and you can melt stuff and cause fires. Aside form difficulty running them, you won't hurt anything running a larger wire.

 

I and a couple other guys here made our own setups. Its not hard and you get to run them nice and neat out of the way. I used the Marine style attachments for all the ends. I have a spiral cell batt with two sets of terminals. Both stud and GM style. I use the GM style terminals for the starting duties ONLY. ALL accessories run thru the top stud terminals.

 

I have some pics and descriptions in my thread in mods.

 

CW

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...