Jump to content

Electric Help Needed


Recommended Posts

No blinkers. No rear light when headlights are on. Also, if I put the flashers on and step on the brakes they stop flashing. Just got the truck so I know nothing about it. Checked the fuse box. Oh and no interior lights in dash. Does have a hitch. DrawTite so I don't think it's factory. I'm thinking it's a bad ground any help as to were to start? :headpop:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are talking about the Hazard flashers, They normally will stop flashing when you step on the brakes. For the T/S I had the same trouble when I got my MJ, All the fuses looked good but nothing worked. I took each lens out and cleaned all the contacts for the bulbs and replaced all of the bulbs at the same time. They worked for a second then stopped. Frustrated... I Put in a new flasher, Same results worked for a sec than stopped. Now it's a blown fuse. I replaced the fuse and havn't had a problem since. On closer inspection all of the fuses had a wierd white corrosion on them inside of the plastic bodies. So I ended up putting all new fuses in so I wouldn't have to deal with it later.

 

All in all I spent about $20 at the autoparts store for all the bulbs fuses and the flasher can.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I pulled the light out of the sockets in the rear passanger side. The top two lights look like they have some type of "goop" in them but they work when the brake is on. I will try to find the ground behind the drivers side tire. Let you know what I find.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That "goop" you found is dielectric grease, that's what you want in there.

 

Once you take the rear driver tail light out, you'll find the body ground, check that the ring connector is not corroded, scrap off some paint and install a new larger sheet metal screw, and coat it with some dielectric grease.

 

There's a connector about 6 inches from the rear bumper that's a problem too, take it apart, spray some tuner cleaner in it, if it's not all corroded, and apply some dielectric grease.

 

At worst, the rear harness, from left tail light to right tail light has factory crimps for the wire pigtails, these also corrode, replace them with some 'B' caps, filled with dielectric grease.

 

With the drawtite trailer hitch, I bet where the wires were spliced in for the trailer flat connector, those are corroded.

 

While you have ever thing apart, it's a good idea to change out the bulbs, the brake/turn/tail lights take a 1157 bulb, and the back up lights take a 1156, and make sure the bulbs are installed in the lock socket correctly.

 

Use dielectric grease in all the socket.

 

Your dash light are off the head light switch, which turns, to dim the dash lights, and brighten them, and all the way to the left, turns on the dome lights, if your are working, most are not. At worst, replace the head light switch if your still having problems.

 

Yes, the 4 way flashers will stop, when you step on the brake.

 

As also suggested, replace the flasher, with a heavy duty flasher unit.

 

If your still having problem, check the front running/turn lights, and replace the bulbs with new ones. Using tuner cleaner first, and pack some dielectric grease in the sockets.

 

And if you just got the truck, Welcome to the world of J, E, E, P.

 

Just

Empty

Every

Pocket

 

:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all that info. I will try to get it all done tomorrow to take advantage of our nice weather we are having here in the north. I'll give you my update :wavey:

 

Oh can you buy a new switch at any auto store?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And after I sleeped on this - I should have said "Contact Cleaner" not tuner cleaner :oops:

You're just showing your age. Now we know that (like me!) you are old enough to remember radios with mechanical tuners. Radio Shack did, indeed, sell "tuner cleaner." I doubt you can find it today, though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK. I got the blinkers working. Thanks alot. It was the ground behind the drivers tail light. However, when I turn my headlights on my lights in the rear do not come on. (didn't clean that pigtail connector yet in the rear) Do you think it could be the switch? If so how do I get the switch out. I already took the top part of the instrument panel off. Oh and while I'm there where are the lights to the speedometer so I can see how fast I'm going. :bowdown:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK. I got the blinkers working. Thanks alot. It was the ground behind the drivers tail light. However, when I turn my headlights on my lights in the rear do not come on. (didn't clean that pigtail connector yet in the rear) Do you think it could be the switch? If so how do I get the switch out. I already took the top part of the instrument panel off. Oh and while I'm there where are the lights to the speedometer so I can see how fast I'm going. :bowdown:

 

 

yeah I'd say check/replace switch.......

If you look up under your dash you'll see a hole. Through that hole you will see the switch. on the switch through the hole you'll see a little button. when you press that button you will be able to pull the knob and shaft out of the switch. then you will see a collar which takes a large flat/straight screwdriver. spin that collar off and the switch comes out from behind the dash. unhook the switch and there you go. when you install the switch back make sure you align the slot on the switches threaded end where the collar goes. its kinda a pain but is doable. The switch connector was also a PITA.. Oh and theres a ground that connects to the switch body,, don't forget that one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When my rear lights stopped working one day, it turned out to be the connector in the wire harness. located right behind the drivers side rear tire. Corrosion inside the connector was the problem. I tried cleaning but had to splice in a generic connector I got at the parts store.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK. Tried cleaning connectors. No go. Actually, the connector is in great shape. Well anyway. I did try to take some voltage readings at the connector. From what I was reading please tell me if I'm correct. The three smaller gauge wires all belong to either the blinker or flasher circuit. The fatter black wire is the ground so that leaves the (i think it was) fatter blue wire to what I think would be the power for the parking lights. If so no power at this point with the headlight switch on. OK. So I got the HL switch out. Can anyone tell me if the "P" terminal on the switch is to be used. My old one didn't have a terminal and the new one does. I haven't had a chance to look at the Jeep again since I went to the parts store.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK. I think it's the switch. Of course the parts store didn't have one in stock till tomorrow. So this is why I think. I checked for an open with my DMM. When I have the switched pulled out and test between the main power the only time I get a closed loop is when I am on "H" Headlight. All others are open. I pushed it halfway in and tried to check the "P" park lights (I think) and got the open loop. All other tested open also. So unless I'm testing the switch incorrecty I am almost positive it is bad. I also turned the knob to click on the interior light and that tested open. :smart: Hope some of my schooling helps me out......Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK. No go. The switch is fine. Looks like there are two power sources to the switch - the headlight and the back light (which also controls the interior.. So can anyone tell me the two red/black wires that go to parking lights comes from. Is it the fuse box or a direct run to the switch and than the fuse box. I am getting a wiring book but I wanted to get it done this weekend. Oh, if I can't find the bad source is there any harm in tapping off the headlight power? :???:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just want to thank everyone for helping me. The wire to the back lights from the headlight switch was pulled out of the fuse box. The wiring diagrams helped out alot. Now off to get all new brake lines and get it inspected. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I dug up this old post and found that my dash light/tail lights were "el bunko" at the harness connector behind the drivers side rear wheel. Great tip. I never read it before because they worked before. The Search button really is your friend.

 

The harness was actually a gelatinous mass and we just replaced it with a gernaric one we found at the FLAPS.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...