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Finally running, sort of


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I had done a lot of work on my (88 Renix) truck in 2022. Replaced almost the entire fuel system due to leaks. Anyway, it sat for almost a year due to time and money issues. Got out two days ago and started working at it again. It was just not starting, but it cranks strong.

 

Skipping ahead, I decided to open up the electrical box on the firewall, the 101 I think?, sprayed it with electrical cleaned, closed it up and it cranked and started like nothing was wrong. Drove it one day, no issues. It's 35 degrees this morning and now it won't start, but does crank.

 

I can hear the fuel pump running and I do have fuel to the rail but, pressing the relief valve doesn't spray everywhere. Just a small spray and then a trickle.

 

This leads me back to the fuel pump. Can a drop in outside temps cause a weak fuel pump to become weaker? Can warm weather cause it to become stronger?

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have you cleaned up the ground?  added a new ground?  or if the ground side is strong, maybe try bypassing the ballast resistor to give it more positive juice while running.

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On 11/13/2024 at 10:01 AM, Pete M said:

have you cleaned up the ground?  added a new ground?  or if the ground side is strong, maybe try bypassing the ballast resistor to give it more positive juice while running.

Yeah, I did Crusier's grounding stuff. I also cleaned the heck out that C101, but it didn't take long to get really gummed up again. I should delete that thing too.

 

I was unaware that you could bypass the ballast resistor. I'll look for the write-up on that.

 

Thanks Pete

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For a temporary fix, you could just put a jumper between the wires for the ballast resistor. That would let you know if that’s the problem or not. 

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5 minutes ago, 89 MJ said:

For a temporary fix, you could just put a jumper between the wires for the ballast resistor. That would let you know if that’s the problem or not. 

What gauge jumper wire would be best?

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Okay, before doing anything I tried a start since it's warmer today. Started up, no issues. BTW, sat for 4 days before trying anything.

 

After letting it run for a bit, for good measure, I re-cleaned the C101 and made sure the blade connectors on the ballast were shiny. I did not try the ballast bypass.

 

So, what it temperature dependent? It hasn't been that cold here.

 

I guess I'll know tomorrow morning.

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I'd recommend utilizing Oxgard on connections like the ballast resistor.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-1-oz-Ox-Gard-Anti-Oxidant-Compound/4514334

 

It helps seal out moisture to prevent corrosion and is electrically conductive.  I would not use it on the c101 as the electrical conductivity could easily bridge connections between wires that shouldn't be connected.

 

Did you retention the pins on the C101?

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Warmer day yesterday, no issues. Colder this morning, no start, just cranking. Bypassed the ballast res. and it did start, but not right off. All total, maybe a dozen tries. I can't be sure the jumper wire was the "fix." I do smell gas and found that fuel is seeping out (not dripping) around that plastic fuel rail/fuel line connector.

 

@pizzaman09 I did not retention the pins.

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On 11/19/2024 at 9:34 AM, Pete M said:

you need to replace the gunk in the c101 so something will keep the moisture at bay.  :L: 

 

Sure. How much do I need? Dielectric grease comes in many sizes? :confused:

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On the topic of the C101. I found that in the heat it would liquify the crap in the connector and screw up my connections. Notably the O2. I cleaned and cleaned without really tearing it apart and my issue would go away for a bit but would return after a few days to a week. 
Then what I finally did was take an air gun from my air compressor and blew air into each socket for the terminal and blew the hardened gunk out to eliminate my issue of it turning to a grease like substance and ruining my good clean connection. So far so good. 
Now I haven’t done anything for moisture prevention as water feels nonexistent here and I probably should add something but I’ll get to it. 

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5 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

On the topic of the C101. I found that in the heat it would liquify the crap in the connector and screw up my connections. Notably the O2. I cleaned and cleaned without really tearing it apart and my issue would go away for a bit but would return after a few days to a week. 
Then what I finally did was take an air gun from my air compressor and blew air into each socket for the terminal and blew the hardened gunk out to eliminate my issue of it turning to a grease like substance and ruining my good clean connection. So far so good. 
Now I haven’t done anything for moisture prevention as water feels nonexistent here and I probably should add something but I’ll get to it. 

 

Good to know. I live in NC, Watauga Co., specifically. It's considered a "temperate rain forest". So, it's a little more wet here than the scorching, parched land of AZ!

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28 minutes ago, NC Tom said:

Sure. How much do I need? Dielectric grease comes in many sizes? :confused:

This 30lb bucket should do :roflmao:IMG_6035.png.fc85dc34c2c63fb46dbc690d9f5ef50e.png

 

Seriously though, I’d probably get two of the smaller tubes from a parts store and hope that took care of it. 

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Fix your fuel leak at the rail. That’s critical 

On 11/19/2024 at 10:37 PM, NC Tom said:

Warmer day yesterday, no issues. Colder this morning, no start, just cranking. Bypassed the ballast res. and it did start, but not right off. All total, maybe a dozen tries. I can't be sure the jumper wire was the "fix." I do smell gas and found that fuel is seeping out (not dripping) around that plastic fuel rail/fuel line connector.

 

@pizzaman09 I did not retention the pins.

 

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On 11/20/2024 at 6:18 PM, 89 MJ said:

This 30lb bucket should do :roflmao:

 

Seriously though, I’d probably get two of the smaller tubes from a parts store and hope that took care of it. 

Yeah, I'll pick some up. The tubes, not the bucket!

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25 minutes ago, NC Tom said:

Still running. Although, it's harder to start the colder it gets. :confused:

As in it cranks slower or it cranks for a longer period of time? If it’s cranking slower, it’s probably because of the cold and the battery aging. 

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On 11/27/2024 at 8:40 PM, 89 MJ said:

cranks slower or it cranks for a longer period of time?

Both. The battery isn't that old but, it's been drained and charged a few times.

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2 hours ago, NC Tom said:

Both. The battery isn't that old but, it's been drained and charged a few times.

Ok. Have you gone through Cruiser’s Tips? Particularly the ones about cleaning grounds. 
 

How does it run once you get it started? Does it have a high idle or a miss or anything on startup? Or is it smooth running right away?

 

Renix takes a little bit of cranking to get started compared to carbureted vehicles or newer vehicles. 
 

Once Cruiser’s tips are done, these threads might be worth reading. 

 

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@89 MJ Thanks for the info.

 

Currently, it just cranks and cranks. Way longer than it's supposed to. When running, it's good. No high idle, skipping, etc. I tried the ballast jumper with no luck. Also attached jumper cables to charge a bit, but nada.

 

@eaglescout526 I have not.

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3 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

I wonder if one of those two isn’t recognizing such cold temps. Does the issue persist say after driving around for a bit, go into the store, come back out and starts up with no issue?

Does not persist.

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