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1988 Street Truck - AWD, LS, 5 Speed, Discs


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Just now, 89 MJ said:

Cleaned up really well. I'm looking forward to this build and following along with this thread. 

 

The anticipation to drive it is killing me, it's sitting in the middle of my driveway taunting me lol, trying to at least do an hour a day of work on it.

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Just now, Comanche SS said:

 

The anticipation to drive it is killing me, it's sitting in the middle of my driveway taunting me lol, trying to at least do an hour a day of work on it.

That hour per day will make a big difference. Its funny how these southeastern trucks rust. I had one from FL and one from GA. Both needed floors and the FL truck needed rocker repair and bedside repair. My Eagle is also a southeastern car that needed and still needs some rust repair. I like the southwest much better for solid metal. 

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1 hour ago, 89 MJ said:

That hour per day will make a big difference. Its funny how these southeastern trucks rust. I had one from FL and one from GA. Both needed floors and the FL truck needed rocker repair and bedside repair. My Eagle is also a southeastern car that needed and still needs some rust repair. I like the southwest much better for solid metal. 

 

Yeah I definitely like working on my socal rigs more, but to be fair, socal rust free rigs cost significantly more to obtain

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Learned the hard way that not all NP242 tailshafts and housings are equipped for speed sensor outputs 

 

Luckily @ghetdjc320 has the takeout parts from his build as he went to an SYE, I'll be working a deal with him for the shaft and housing kit

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Went ahead and ordered the C2C "OEM" style floor pans with @Salvagedcircuit recommendation on ebay.

Also used the floor pans as justification to buy the Milwaukee Fuel Die Grinder I have been wanting. LOL

 

Lastly, bought a few spot weld cutters, air hammer & attachments, and some other odds and ends to do the floor job.

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11 minutes ago, Salvagedcircuit said:

I wish I had purchased the spot weld cutter bits when I did mine. I just used a chizel and hammer. It took far too long. :doh:

 

Yeah watched a few videos and saw all the tools I ordered being used lol

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48 minutes ago, ghetdjc320 said:

out of curiosity, why not the key parts MJ specific pans?


The price is twice as much, and then they charge $50-$100 just for shipping depending upon the distributor. 

The "New" "OEM Style" Pans from C2C are a spitting image of the Key parts pans...makes me curious if C2C is repopping them, or has a deal with the supplier.

Either way, returning the C2C pans in the case I don't like them is easy through Ebay, and in which case I may end up with Key parts pans.

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Splurging a little bit today.

Went ahead and bought a Woodgrain Center Radio Bezel for the new interior swap...Simply to match my other builds all also having Wood Grain Dash's. 

The 1998 XJ Steering wheel I have works, but it has seen better days. Thus it will be getting replaced also. Going to go for a WJ upper model Woodgrain wheel. Regardless of the year of the wheel, I will need to source 2001 and down Cruise control buttons, to match the 2000/2001 Jeep ECU I will be running for cruise to work. (98-99 buttons/ECU use different reistance parameters) The LS will be retrofit with the Jeep Cruise servo, since I am using a Jeep Tcase/speed sensor. Should be all plug and play due to retaining the Jeep ECU.

 

Lastly, also working on getting the NP242 Shifter and shift bezel for the 1997+ interior.

This will also give me extra buttons to control the radio which will be neat.

First photo's are my current XJ builds and the respective Wood Grain Dashes.

Third photo is what this MJ will be like, albeit not the crazy gauge lights. 

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30 minutes ago, Comanche SS said:

Splurging a little bit today.

Went ahead and bought a Woodgrain Center Radio Bezel for the new interior swap...Simply to match my other builds all also having Wood Grain Dash's. 

The 1998 XJ Steering wheel I have works, but it has seen better days. Thus it will be getting replaced also. Going to go for a WJ upper model Woodgrain wheel. Regardless of the year of the wheel, I will need to source 2001 and down Cruise control buttons, to match the 2000/2001 Jeep ECU I will be running for cruise to work. (98-99 buttons/ECU use different reistance parameters) The LS will be retrofit with the Jeep Cruise servo, since I am using a Jeep Tcase/speed sensor. Should be all plug and play due to retaining the Jeep ECU.

 

Lastly, also working on getting the NP242 Shifter and shift bezel for the 1997+ interior.

This will also give me extra buttons to control the radio which will be neat.

First photo's are my current XJ builds and the respective Wood Grain Dashes.

Third photo is what this MJ will be like, albeit not the crazy gauge lights. 

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Are those tweeters mounted in the dash on that 3rd pic? Nice :L:

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3 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Are those tweeters mounted in the dash on that 3rd pic? Nice :L:

 

Seems to be, I prefer the Napier Tweeter Pod location (partially because I designed/developed them personally) But that location works too! It isnt my photo, just an example of the wheel/radio bezel I chose.

 

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My wagoneer restoration is mobile again, meaning this Comanche can get into the workshop. 

 

Next weekend I'll play musical jeeps and get them changed around, wrapping up some small last tasks on the wagoneer, also an excuse to cut the floors out of the MJ outside, and keep the mess out of the garage.

 

I also got the LP ZJ D30 stripped and power washed. Feel strange to be building arguably one of the least liked jeep front axle, but I feel in this case it is the best option. LP for exhaust clearance, and the ability to lower, open differential to keep the AWD NP242 happy, 3.55 to match the rear 8.25. and lastly CV axles/driveshaft for ultimate smooth AWD operation.

 

Will get fresh seals, stripped and painted, 1988 knuckles for upgraded brakes. New steering, suspension, track bar etc. 

 

Should be a decent axle, and the tire size being 28.2" will be not a huge stress on this axle.

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13 minutes ago, 89 MJ said:

Overall, those floors don't look too bad. Not great by any means, but not terrible.


Yeah it is definitely save-able. Not worth going to the scrapper over, thats for sure lol

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Today I learned that the 1997+ Dash absolutely requires the 1997+ pedals, this whole time I thought I would be retaining my original pedals.

Hurt my eyes to see the $300-$400 pedal assemblies for 1997+ Manual XJ's....but way down the list, seemingly hidden on ebay I found this listing and immediately bought it. Should be here later this week.



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Pleases to report the C2C OEM style floor pans have very usable fitment.

 

Some massaging here and there, they'll fit like a glove.

 

Side note, I got 90% of the passenger side rust cut out, enough to move onto the driver side and get it into the garage this weekend hopefully!

 

Before final install, some more cutting, grinding, and massaging will be in order.

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Got the Comanche into the garage, in record time...So I went ahead and got some of the bulky items out of the way.

The impact gun, air hammer, and myself got a good workout this afternoon. Solo Axle pulls in about 2 hours, rust and all LOL

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Thinking about paint...

As I am tearing down and working on rust/dent/bodywork repair, I was priming the finished surfaces as I go. Just to protect the raw metals.

Up to now, I was thinking a metallic blue paint, kind of like the 1999 XJ Color Gunmetal blue pearl. 

But the more I work on and look at this truck, I know it will never be a perfect truck, it is a budget build afterall. If I get 5-10 years out of it, then itll be a win.

I absolutely love the 1999 Stone White color, my crawler XJ has it...and walking the isles in lowes today I glanced at a color and realized how close it was to that, it is admittedly a primer, so worst case, I can always go back over it with a sander and actual paint, but for the time being itll be a damn close match to my crawler.

Of course a quick 10-min test paint to see if I like it.

From 10' back, its nearly identical, only when you get closer up you can tell its a tad more yellow/cream than the stone white. Photos don't do complete justice, but pretty close.
 

 

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