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Ghosty


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I noticed the spray foam around the heater core tubes while buying the truck. Dude claims it never leaked. But even still, I can’t stand to look at this mess. Figured while I’m at a stand still with the engine I’d start on getting this addressed. C3B66371-8C04-4C12-BFAA-5ED65792F900.jpeg.14f37790e89b023a9288847b2da0fd41.jpeg
 

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Makes you wonder what people think. 
 

It appears that the clutch pedal linkage is missing some bushings or has some worn out parts and it is a little sloppy these days. Someone came up with a funny fix. 9433341E-841B-4513-8907-EDD1FBC473AF.jpeg.fd9d6e1b650dd6593c3ee6bb25ebada4.jpeg

Just put some springs on it! 
 

I’ve been worried about what the harness  radio plug looks like, since I saw the aftermarket speakers self tapped into the door cards. Unfortunately I found this. 

56D83399-8AA9-441F-9991-73852D9BF49D.jpeg.d1fe5f7bb4f679a1ff4a0bfc257dd59f.jpeg
 

Then they hacked into the harness again down by the E brake E72B1D24-7BF9-4F5B-A8C5-7523E20B1C13.jpeg.241f755988e744aff4ed03b2119ef41e.jpeg


Not terrible. I’ve seen worse. 

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21 hours ago, WranglerMangler said:

What are you thinking? I’m open to suggestions. 7k RPM screamer with a 150 shot of nitrous sounds fun. Lol

Hmmmmm, if you want one that’ll rev, I think you can use a 232 crank and make a mini stroker that is more rev happy

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Got some interior work done today. I was kind of surprised by what I found.

Got the wet lump of “carpeting” out and the foam dash pad. 

26DC936E-C25C-4258-AE7A-034649FE1206.jpeg.bb56aa4d7b2272e9558a7e489c7f2ef4.jpeg

 

07/21/87 on the dash pad. I always like finding these old dates throughout the truck. 
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Passenger side floor board is looking really good. However it did have standing water on it. 
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Not as lucky on the driver side unfortunately. 60588A7C-69A6-40FF-BEFF-91044FE3A5B7.jpeg.8fb09b3eb04c92dda9d5d36639915b12.jpeg
 

Can’t imagine what is going on here… 

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Wasn't anticipating finding all the rust in the floorboard, but I’ll get it dealt with properly. 
 

Interior is totally gutted and ready for some rust repair work. 

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Soaked up all the water I could get with paper towels then threw a layer down to soak up anything that appears overnight. 

510AFB40-10E1-46BB-857F-283167BDD152.jpeg.32053b123ed6cd32ee7d69f9687d7a90.jpeg


 

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Here's my drivers side. This was a good condition mj on the east coast.

Wirewheel the rust and seam sealer away on the drivers side and then you can get a good idea about the metal condition.

 

Carpet out:

20220920_114941.jpg

 

The solution:

1181115650_20220924_154017-Copy.jpg.b7783392afe0399d19dae12a08fa5f42.jpg

 

You will likely not need to do this much work, yours looks a lot better than mine.

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6 hours ago, Salvagedcircuit said:

Here's my drivers side. This was a good condition mj on the east coast.

Wirewheel the rust and seam sealer away on the drivers side and then you can get a good idea about the metal condition.

 

Carpet out:

20220920_114941.jpg

 

The solution:

1181115650_20220924_154017-Copy.jpg.b7783392afe0399d19dae12a08fa5f42.jpg

 

You will likely not need to do this much work, yours looks a lot better than mine.

Most of the seam sealer material was melted away by brake fluid leaking on it through the years. Yeah hopefully I don’t have to go that far into mine. I need to stop and get a new wire wheel so I can get after it! 

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Got a little grinder time tonight. I want to say I’m surprised but I suppose our wet climate in Washington state doesn’t help at all. Found a couple places in need of repair. 
I can’t believe how tough that seam sealer stuff is! Really grabs the grinder. 0F69C761-A497-41F6-896E-7A04D2276F3C.jpeg.0c5721d1633f4f69c9110cc6ff955d0b.jpeg

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It’s pretty soft between the 2 big holes, will probably end up cutting it all out. 

3FCE0DD1-D44A-4DE6-AD69-229F6ECC4BDC.jpeg.f7224d471ba9666accf59778230c4cd5.jpeg
 

 

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Nice work.

What I did with holes ~1/4in and larger was to tap in elevator bolts and weld it up. I grabbed the shortest elevator bolts with the largest head size I could find at the local hardware store and lopped off the threaded end leaving a short stem. Head size was about 1.5in diameter. It's nice because you can just tap in the bolt stem into the hole and it'll hold itself in place while you weld.

For accumulations of tiny holes, if the area was weak and thin, I would elevator bolt it. If not, I seam sealed it. Seam sealer filled in the holes no problemo.

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17 minutes ago, Salvagedcircuit said:

Nice work.

What I did with holes ~1/4in and larger was to tap in elevator bolts and weld it up. I grabbed the shortest elevator bolts with the largest head size I could find at the local hardware store and lopped off the threaded end leaving a short stem. Head size was about 1.5in diameter. It's nice because you can just tap in the bolt stem into the hole and it'll hold itself in place while you weld.

For accumulations of tiny holes, if the area was weak and thin, I would elevator bolt it. If not, I seam sealed it. Seam sealer filled in the holes no problemo.

20220927_191304.jpg.1a4a88483324a6349f2da3956b285a9b.jpg

20220927_191300.jpg.674c3de08a6a24f8e1b0f6552d965b76.jpg

20220927_191318.jpg.fcb23f0e7ec0ac411dd2d7cfb998bddc.jpg

1063138133_20220927_204445-Copy.jpg.bafbf5642a78ec121e854594c46c1d15.jpg

 

 

That’s a great idea. Thank you! 

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2 minutes ago, WranglerMangler said:

That’s a great idea. Thank you! 

No probs. It's not the most affordable way to do it (I think each plated bolt is like $1.25 each locally) but I found it a lot more convenient than cutting small squares or circles and then having to move a magnet every few tac welds. You will have to wire wheel the zinc plated elevator bolts though.

It is cheaper to grab some from mcmaster.

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On 12/27/2023 at 12:38 PM, WranglerMangler said:

What are you thinking? I’m open to suggestions. 7k RPM screamer with a 150 shot of nitrous sounds fun. Lol

 

 

keep fantasizing. :D  7k ain't going to happen with stock-ish lifters.  they start floating and are more or less a factory rev limiter. 

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On 1/4/2024 at 9:00 AM, Pete M said:

 

 

keep fantasizing. :D  7k ain't going to happen with stock-ish lifters.  they start floating and are more or less a factory rev limiter. 

Do “high rev” lifters make a difference? Plus roller rockers? Newcomer gets his 4.0s up to 6500Rpm  seems like a realistic goal?
I’ll drop some money on good performance parts. 

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Have been grinding away on all this body filler on the interior, I needed a break tonight so I pulled out the fuel pump to inspect the inside of the gas tank. When I bought the truck, I was told it had an almost full tank of 5+ year old gas. I siphoned out most all of the junk fuel and it had a terrible color to it. I have been concerned about the condition of the tank  since. 


Pump came out fairly clean. Good sign. 

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Stuck my phone up to the hole and snapped these pictures.. D5496DE4-18B3-4789-BAE0-C046859F836C.jpeg.d1fde711806255f9cc7b87cee3150b96.jpeg

 

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Looks good enough to me! Siphoned out the rest of the turpentine and reinstalled the pump unit. I’m basically going to use this tank as a “storage tank” for now. I like always having some fuel around for lawnmower or pressure washer stuff. Then I can justify having it full of fuel so it won’t rust while I’m working on her. 
 

 

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One thing that has really bothered me since buying my first Comanche is the unpainted under dash stuff. Pedal assembly for instance.
Mainly took these pictures because it looked complicated and I wanted to get it back together right  56322852-0245-43C3-9061-0AF089468D0D.jpeg.93a44b6421e1b16f458d02ff82e46b0a.jpeg
 

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Clutch pedal was missing a pivot bushing. 

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All this ugly rust for no reason. I wire wheeled what I could get at and spray painted the assembly. Cleaned out all the old grease then put it back together.

This clutch/brake bushing kit worked for my truck. Bolt pivot bushings and clutch to slave cylinder pivot. 

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Parking brake cable was easily accessible to lube. This is what I came up with to get lube through. The end makes it very difficult to get lube into the cable. I have a conventional cable luber and it failed to work with this style cable end. 
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Found a hose big enough to clear the connector then hose clamped it down tight so it won’t leak. Filled the hose with lube then cycled the cable until lube came out of the other end. Much easier said than done. 

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Did some more muddling around today. Disassembled the parking brake assembly and wire wheeled all the rust I could get at. 
 

Took these pictures for reference while reassembling 083A885E-E7EA-407A-B462-C687E5024D52.jpeg.f8f76b14adaeeb863c7a1862902587a4.jpeg

 

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Got it all cleaned up then primered. A838F310-9CE2-42F4-B080-D5DBA3BB0556.jpeg.e42110665c9bad9a5574ceae0a26aa6b.jpeg04049838-8E86-43C4-B653-1C93845D43C2.jpeg.d6ee3900fe4038e78852a3ca9ad06410.jpeg

 

So basically I’m keeping busy with all these dumb little things that I have always wanted to address on all of my MJs. I'm waiting for work to pick up a little and still recovering from Christmas.
I’ve decided that I’m going to build a stroker  engine for this truck and am going to need to get some parts together for the build. Realistically just need a crank, rods and pistons to complete the rotating assembly but don’t have the funds right now. 

And I still need a donor vehicle to complete the HO swap but could definitely have the engine ready to go for when I find the right donor XJ. 
So for now, I’m just doing all these little things that can be done for “free” and have always bugged me. Best part of not being in a rush on a build I suppose. 
 

 

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Got the E brake assembly put back together tonight. Need to find a new rubber bumper for the pedal return. This one is in bad shape. 
 

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Also wire wheeled and painted the metal on the back side of the lower dash piece. 
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Just staying busy. Going after the dash tomorrow. 

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