NC Tom Posted April 15, 2023 Posted April 15, 2023 Starting to trouble-shoot my no-start issues and upon unplugging the CPS, I found this. Looks off to me. However, it's a Renix, so I don't know what the French were thinking.
eaglescout526 Posted April 15, 2023 Posted April 15, 2023 No. It should look like the pin next to it.
NC Tom Posted April 15, 2023 Author Posted April 15, 2023 2 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: No. It should look like the pin next to it. Okay, safe to assume it could be causing no-spark symptoms? Thank you.
NC Tom Posted April 15, 2023 Author Posted April 15, 2023 1 hour ago, eaglescout526 said: Yes. Okay. Just being thorough here. Per @cruiser54 's Renix tips, I plugged in my meter, set to ACV, turned engine over and got .259. That means replace CPS correct?
eaglescout526 Posted April 15, 2023 Posted April 15, 2023 If I recall, .2VAC is the absolute bare minimum that a Renix engine will run with. But even aftermarket will run at that bare minimum out of the box. There’s still some OEM ones left. If they didn’t cost me a hand I’d order all that’s left and get them out and into hands of folks who need them.
NC Tom Posted April 15, 2023 Author Posted April 15, 2023 10 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: If I recall, .2VAC is the absolute bare minimum that a Renix engine will run with. But even aftermarket will run at that bare minimum out of the box. There’s still some OEM ones left. If they didn’t cost me a hand I’d order all that’s left and get them out and into hands of folks who need them. I can't find OEM. Where did you see them?
eaglescout526 Posted April 15, 2023 Posted April 15, 2023 2 minutes ago, NC Tom said: I can't find OEM. Where did you see them? Is it still a hush hush thing? That’s good I guess. Since I work in parts at a dealer I am able to look at part numbers and see what’s out there. And that’s how I’ve been able to run the VINs too
NC Tom Posted April 15, 2023 Author Posted April 15, 2023 1 minute ago, eaglescout526 said: Is it still a hush hush thing? That’s good I guess. Since I work in parts at a dealer I am able to look at part numbers and see what’s out there. I don't know if it's a secret. I just can't find anything listed as "OEM".
eaglescout526 Posted April 15, 2023 Posted April 15, 2023 9 minutes ago, NC Tom said: I don't know if it's a secret. I just can't find anything listed as "OEM". And you most likely won’t. OEM would be made be Siemens if you can find one of those. Or if you have a vintage parts log in
NC Tom Posted April 15, 2023 Author Posted April 15, 2023 4 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: And you most likely won’t. OEM would be made be Siemens if you can find one of those. Or if you have a vintage parts log in Yeah, I guess NAPA's Proformer at $47 is my best bet.
DirtyComanche Posted April 16, 2023 Posted April 16, 2023 Those are standard GM Weatherpack connectors. They're an obsolete connector in the OEM world, but were used in millions of vehicles for a couple decades. What I'm getting at is you can buy the pins/connectors/tools for them everywhere and for very little money. If that pin is that mangled then likely the mating pin on the engine harness is as bad. You should consider replacing them as it might be causing the no start, and it would be a very inexpensive fix. Also, if the engine harness pin is mangled, a new CPS likely won't fix it.
NC Tom Posted April 16, 2023 Author Posted April 16, 2023 26 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said: Those are standard GM Weatherpack connectors. They're an obsolete connector in the OEM world, but were used in millions of vehicles for a couple decades. What I'm getting at is you can buy the pins/connectors/tools for them everywhere and for very little money. If that pin is that mangled then likely the mating pin on the engine harness is as bad. You should consider replacing them as it might be causing the no start, and it would be a very inexpensive fix. Also, if the engine harness pin is mangled, a new CPS likely won't fix it. Okay. When you say "everywhere" where is that? I've never looked for these parts before.
DirtyComanche Posted April 16, 2023 Posted April 16, 2023 17 minutes ago, NC Tom said: Okay. When you say "everywhere" where is that? I've never looked for these parts before. Any auto parts store, Summit, Speedway, Jegs, Amazon, or any of the scumbag Chicom distributors (besides Amazon). The quality does vary a bit. Pico makes okay ones. The genuine ones are made by Delphi, but they're harder to find and more money (the GM dealer will have them). A pack of pins for them from Pico is a few bucks from my local auto parts store.
Minuit Posted April 16, 2023 Posted April 16, 2023 38 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said: Any auto parts store, Summit, Speedway, Jegs, Amazon, or any of the scumbag Chicom distributors (besides Amazon). The quality does vary a bit. Pico makes okay ones. The genuine ones are made by Delphi, but they're harder to find and more money (the GM dealer will have them). A pack of pins for them from Pico is a few bucks from my local auto parts store. Mouser for the genuine Aptiv (the current name of Delphi) stuff.
NC Tom Posted April 16, 2023 Author Posted April 16, 2023 47 minutes ago, Minuit said: Mouser for the genuine Aptiv (the current name of Delphi) stuff. Minuit, would a damaged pin really cause the voltage to read incorrectly? The probe is pushed down in. Doesn't seem like it would be an issue.
Minuit Posted April 16, 2023 Posted April 16, 2023 If you were making good contact with your test leads (and you're sure of it) that pin being simply bent wouldn't affect the reading. If the pin is broken in some other way that can't be seen, that could cause extra resistance. In use, that pin may or may not be making good contact at all times, so I would 100% replace that pair of contacts at least. You wouldn't have to replace the whole connector if you can get it apart without breaking it. Those connectors use crimped-on seals on the strain relief of the contact and require a semi-specialized crimper. An Amazon special would work just fine here, and the one I recommend is this. I've made literally tens of thousands of crimps with mine and it hasn't skipped a single beat.
NC Tom Posted April 16, 2023 Author Posted April 16, 2023 9 hours ago, Minuit said: Great info. Thanks!
NC Tom Posted April 16, 2023 Author Posted April 16, 2023 Since I have already ordered a CPS, is there any harm in bypassing the damaged connector and soldering the wires together to see what happens?
howeitsdone Posted April 16, 2023 Posted April 16, 2023 You can get a pack of test leads with alligator clips for practically pennies from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. Wago 221 connectors are also great to have around for purposes like this. Heck, a wing-nut connector just for testing if you've got any laying around. Soldering seems like a bit of work just to test. But to each their own.
cruiser54 Posted April 16, 2023 Posted April 16, 2023 In a nutshell, those connectors worked like $#!& when they were new. Imagine how they work now, especially when they're @#$%ed up.
NC Tom Posted April 17, 2023 Author Posted April 17, 2023 On 4/16/2023 at 11:23 AM, howeitsdone said: You can get a pack of test leads with alligator clips for practically pennies from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. Wago 221 connectors are also great to have around for purposes like this. Heck, a wing-nut connector just for testing if you've got any laying around. Soldering seems like a bit of work just to test. But to each their own. Funny. I figured if I suggested alligator clips or something like that, I would be told that I wouldn't get a good reading unless I soldered it. Can't win.
cruiser54 Posted April 17, 2023 Posted April 17, 2023 I'm thinking just solder the wires together and skip any connectors. Those connectors were poor.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now