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  • 2 weeks later...

Not many good pictures but I’ve been busy.  The 3.4 is all buttoned up and almost ready to drop in.  I’m going to try and spray paint the engine bay this weekend.  SYE kit arrived and a handful of other parts so it’s going to be a busy December.  Luckily I have some leave to burn..

 

 

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2 hours ago, Greenjeans said:

I’ve been on the lookout for some of those valve covers.  And I have a spare throttle cable/trans cable bracket just in case I find some.  It seems they run around $100 when they pop up on eBay….

 

If I come across another set I'll let you know. 

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Mitsubishi forklift spray paint turns out to be very close to USFS green.  I wish I could have completely stripped this thing down and done it properly but I just don’t have time and I’m running out of free parking. 😁 first picture you can see the original 1986 paint on the header panel, albeit faded out a good bit.   Second picture looks more blue I guess the iPhone did that as the sun was going down.  Next weekend project is to put the 99 brake booster and Durango M/C and the Durango steering box.  I am aware that the 99 booster will require modification to the rod. I picked it up before I knew about that little detail. Should not be a problem I have a welder…

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Edit** this pump got moved to the rear underneath by the fuel tank due to low fuel pressure sporadically under load when I mounted it under the hood.**.
 

I made this mount for the electric fuel pump out of angle iron and some scrap heavy duty hose.  Hopefully this will keep it from transmitting any vibes to the unibody (buzz!).  Initial mock-up before I mount it.  I’m planning to put it in the area on top of the coil spring bucket.  We’ll see how that goes…. I’m thinking of “T’ng” the output side and using the factory return line to the tank so the pump doesn’t dead-head pressure.  I got a 5psi check valve to go between the pump and return line.  I know the Weber needs low pressure so I’ll play around with it with a gauge to try and get the pressure down.  

 

 

 

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‘99 brake booster with ‘86 rod end welded on (boot conveniently hiding my welding skills 👍).  Infamous 1/4” spacer and foam seal.  
 

Cadillac hearse brake lines on Dakota M/C.  Only one problem… reservoir won’t clear the hood.  Back to the junkyard to find a XJ reservoir.  I’ll make a bracket for the Wilwood adj. prop valve that ties into the fuel pump bracket below it (not installed yet).  
 

I did not get as much done as I wanted to but isn’t that always the case… I spent a day and a half messing around with the 700 R4. The lockup solenoid did not click with 12 V supplied. I put a new one in but I’m still not convinced it’s working properly. I have more goodies for the 700 R4 but did not even get those installed..

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Ok re-undid it.  Again 🤔… I went to the parts store and just bought a new master cylinder/ reservoir that are for a 99 Cherokee. Then I cut the Cadillac brake lines back and shortened everything up.  I moved the prop valve inside the m/c I have a little bit of spaghetti noodle on the bottom of the proportioning valve, but that’s fine with me. It looks way better now.  The only thing that is tricky is not having a motor installed ….I don’t know if I will have to tweak the lines some more if they contact anything…

 

Durango box goes in tomorrow..

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  • 2 weeks later...

241c got a JB Conversions SYE kit.  I removed the transfer case from a ‘95 C1500 at the u pull it.  It had fresh looking RTV oozing out of it so I know someone had been into it at some point.  Everything looked fresh bearing wise so I don’t know if it was a complete rebuild or part replacement.  These 241’s have the 6 pinion planetary.  I noticed that it also has the larger 1350 ujoint up front on the output yoke.  I found that a grand Cherokee np242 has a 1310 yoke and seems to fit fine and not leak so that gives me the correct size ujoint match.  An  87 XJ at the JY gave me a mechanical speedo connector for the transfer case and a new 37 tooth gear (4:10’s and 31” tire).  I bought a Morse cable to use for the factory (99 XJ) TC shifter and need to fab brackets for that..  700r4 is also ready for install.  

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Weber throttle Bracket for 700r4 from some random Chevy at the junkyard, hole welded and redrilled/filed out.  I have no idea if this will be the final configuration.  Rarely does the first try work with my “custom” parts.  Just gives me more practice…

 

**edit, fuel pump is now under vehicle by fuel tank.  Gauge is still under the hood.  Return line is not in use**
 

Carter fuel pump with in, out, and a 1/4” fitting to run to the return line.  I will be using .5 psi check valves in line so we will have to see what the pressure ends up looking like.

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700r4 brackets for use with Jeep shifter and cable.  Look sketchy but work great.  The arched bracket on the shifter was removed by drilling out rivets, grinding more travel clearance where arrow points.  Then bolt the bracket back on with 1/4” bolts.  This added travel allows you to get to 1st gear (D/3/2/1).  When I get to the shifter install in the console I’ll have to figure all that out.  I got a 99 XJ shifter so I could use a cable instead of 1986 shifter rod arrangement.

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First off merry Christmas to everyone!
 

I think my engine transmission and transfer case are finally ready to go in to the Jeep.  But before I put them in I had a couple little projects need to be addressed. I wanted to put drop control arm brackets on the front because the control arms had a hideous angle and the ride was really bad.  I went with the Amazon specials and they are apparently an exact copy of the rough country. They probably actually make the Rough Country in the same plant. But they do not have the rough country logo cut into them that I did not like.  Like every project it took twice as long as I thought because the frame side bracket needed some grinding etc. no two vehicles are identical I will just say that. Otherwise they fit perfectly. And after adjusting the control arms about three times I finally got 6° caster. There’s no drivetrain in it, so it’s a good starting point is the way I figure it. And it was very easy to do when you can Literally sit on the floor in the transmission tunnel.  
 

The next housekeeping issue is I need to repair the only hole in the Jeep. It is above where the muffler was originally. Passenger rear floorboard. It’s not a big hole but needs to be done now before I move forward. I also have not inspected the floor with the factory mat removed yet. It might need a little primer or something here and there. I know most of these things leak and this one is no different.  I also need to install the transfer case shifter and the 99XJ automatic shifter.

 

The front seats are not in terrible condition but they are also not in great condition. One of them leans back to far couple of mechanisms don’t work very well and there are cracks in the driver side vinyl. So I’m really not sure what I’m going to do for front seats. If I could find an NOS covers or afford a real upholstery job I would reuse them. The backseat is about mint. Going to put that decision off for a while so I can focus on the drive train. In the old days, most of my hot rods had a milk crate in them to sit on at some point and this one will be no different.  The vinyl floor mat is a little fragile but I definitely plan to save it. Repair a few splits with some adhesive or something. If they reproduced these I would buy a new one but I would imagine this is XJ gold and not replaceable.

 

Original spare is green.  Maybe all of the wheels were green.  I cannot find any pictures of a USFS Cherokee that is this old.

 

 

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**edit, first bracket pictured this bracket was removed and I made my own version of the “Ozzie” or whatever linkages for the transfer case. 
 

I modified a factory transfer case linkage bracket that goes in the trans tunnel by just welding some big mongo washers together then to a piece of angle iron, then to the bracket itself.  This will hold the shifter end of the Morse cable.  Home made version of the Novak kit.  I used one of my old motor mounts, cut it up and fabbed a bracket for the transfer case end of said cable.

 

my rusty hole over the muffler turned into a picture of Nevada after trimming it out.  Old sign or washing machine side (?) used to make a patch panel.  Booger welded it in, will seam seal it on another day.

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