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Trust me, I’d do several things more thoroughly if I had a better shop arrangement …. I need to get this thing moving under its own power, then I can do smaller projects at a slower pace.  Dropped the 3.4 in today, 700r4 going in tomorrow along with adapting the factory crossmember to the 700r4.  
 

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For you experienced 2.8 guys, what is the relay box module thing that is inside the firewall behind the big rubber plug?  Orange and pink wires and maybe a couple other wires on it.  I will be going through the entire engine compartment wiring harness at some point but I was just curious what that thing is. Looks like some 1980s electronics. And I’m sure whatever it is I don’t need it. That plug in the firewall looks like a good spot to run my Autometer gauge wires etc. through…

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3 hours ago, Greenjeans said:

For you experienced 2.8 guys, what is the relay box module thing that is inside the firewall behind the big rubber plug?  Orange and pink wires and maybe a couple other wires on it.  I will be going through the entire engine compartment wiring harness at some point but I was just curious what that thing is. Looks like some 1980s electronics. And I’m sure whatever it is I don’t need it. That plug in the firewall looks like a good spot to run my Autometer gauge wires etc. through…

 

got a pic?

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Here is the 700r4 in the tunnel when I got it dropped in.  It’s all bolted in straight now.  I had to pull it over to the drivers side a little with a ratchet strap.  I took a ‘95 Chevy truck crossmember and cut a piece out, welded that to piece of scrap metal and drilled the bolt pattern to match the Jeep crossmember.  No picture of it all bolted down yet.  I am at -2.4 degrees tilted back on the carb mount surface so I’m going to raise the tail of the trans a bit next week.  Taking a break for the weekend.  

 

 

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Got one more part in.  A big one.  I had to let air out of the front tires because the Jack wouldn’t go up high enough to get it in.  Those six bolts were a pain!  There was a little ear on the top that I shaved off just to keep a goodly amount of clearance from the floor pan.  I have no idea why the bottom picture is posting upside down 🤔

 

 

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94 Camaro starter meets 88 S10 converter dust shield.  Open up the hole about 8 inch to get the starter to fit in there. I think I was in about the 12th grade before I found out that cars came with a dust shield.  In my early years of Mechanic work, I did not see any cars that had one still in place. Camaros, Novas etc went faster without one 😁. This one is cast aluminum and I blasted it and clearcoated it so it’s going back on.

 

next is our Novak knockoff bracket built on the original transfer case shifter rod bracket.  Originally I was going to use two separate brackets as they did but with my transfer case and transmission that is not going to fit up in there. So this bracket will hold both ends of the Morse cable. I will get a better picture once it is installed. And yes I have rust in the floor where this bolts in so we will be working on that this weekend because the floor needs beefing up where this bracket will be mounted….

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Ospho’d the rust, tacked in a patch panel and seam sealed the heck out of the area that had a couple of holes next to the shifter.  It ain’t pretty but it should be sealed up good.  
 

Started working on the exhaust…. This could be the most challenging part of the whole project.  I’m using a bunch of random exhaust scraps to go from the Camaro 3.4 exhaust manifolds (2 1/4” pipe) down to a 2.5” main pipe and muffler.  Lots of cutting and grinding and welding.  Not fun.  Back at it tomorrow..

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Pulled the Frankenstein exhaust out and finished welding it up.  The DIY-pipe was made from random pipes from the JY.  A new Flowmaster knock off from Jegs.  Fabricating the Y pipe was a royal pain in the keister..  I used 2.25” pipe coming down from the Camaro 3.4 manifolds then y to a 2.5 pipe.  It clears the front driveshaft and the y section will drop out the bottom with only the removal of the crossmember.  The back section can be removed just by unbolting, removing the rubbers and a little finagling it out.  Next I will wire wheel the whole thing and paint it so it lasts a bit longer.  
 

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I turned it back in for the core deposit.  I saw your ad looking for a fly wheel and I’m pretty sure I still have it. However I also still have a 2wd transmission that I’m trying to sell and if it does not sell I might need that flywheel for something. I’ll give you the fly wheel for free if you come buy the transmission 😁

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6 hours ago, Greenjeans said:

I turned it back in for the core deposit.  I saw your ad looking for a fly wheel and I’m pretty sure I still have it. However I also still have a 2wd transmission that I’m trying to sell and if it does not sell I might need that flywheel for something. I’ll give you the fly wheel for free if you come buy the transmission 😁

Hahaha if I needed a 2wd trans. My mj has a 4wd 904 so I'm set there.

Let me know what ends up happening with that flex plate lol

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You bet!  I am real tempted to take the trans, straight front axle, D35 rear axle, driveshaft, shifter etc etc and build a pre war speedster with them.  I’m studying a YJ rear frame section to start it off …But I don’t know if the wife will put up with another project vehicle for awhile 😁

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I got lucky on the front driveshaft because the factory XJ one will work fine. However on the rear I needed a 37 inch driveshaft and the grand Cherokee is 33 inch. So I had already picked this one up from the junkyard.  I stretched it from 33 to 37 with a piece of pipe sleeved around it to stretch it and welded it up. I realize this is a back up drive shaft/driveway driveshaft to get it around the yard for initial start up.  Of course it is not balanced but before I buy a custom driveshaft, I thought I would just use this one temporarily.

 

I also rebuilt the distributor.  I had ordered a recurve kit from jegs just to play around with.  BTW, that is more than one kit in the picture. The first one they sent was half incomplete so they sent me out a second one.   Nothing in the kit works except for the springs on this distributor.  Looking at the factory weights, they are marked 37 and the vacuum canister is marked 20.  So I’m wondering if this means the 2.8 was designed to have 57° total for timing. Does anyone know the answer to that?  I bought the new electronic parts from rock auto and this AC Delco lower pick up coil was the last one the distributor had. The box was all beat up.  I could not find a new vacuum can anywhere. This one tested fine so I am reusing it.  
 

The distributor had an enormous amount of end play. I ended up putting a .058 shim in to get it to around .015 of end play.  

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Got the 8.8 all tidy”d up and ready for install.  I put new carbon clutches in and new spider gears, axle bearings and brakes.  Hopefully it won’t howl and will stop.  That axle cover is an SVO knock off from the Amazon.  I realize that this Jeep probably won’t spin a tire in wet grass but ya never know if we might add a couple cylinders in the future…

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All mounted in with the 2wd Xterra springs.  They are giving me right at 4” of lift according to the online measuring experts.  Hard brake lines and East Coast Gear Supply e-brake cables in place.  Two pass side Explorer brake hoses on short home-fab brackets secured on the leaf spring ubolt with an extra nut.

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11 hours ago, Pete M said:

looks darn good in black and silver. :D 

👍 I have to keep up with all these Dodge diesels runnin around here with the huge aluminum diff covers.  They remind me of a big aluminum pot granny used to cook beans in.  This diff cover will get a double take from the Mustang guys that know what the “SVO” 8.8 Mustang diff covers look like.  “If you can’t dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with BS” - Einstein or somebody smart said that.  

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