Grinding noise sometimes when I turn the key

[Classy Comanche]

So every since I bought the truck it would rarely make this....awful grinding nose. When I go to insert the key then turn to the crank position to crank the truck it will sometimes make that awful sound. Well. As time has went it has gotten ever so slightly more frequent. I would say about 3 or 4 times out of 20 different cranks. It's a noise that makes you curl your toes and grit your teeth. But I was wondering if any of you had any ideas? I wish I had a audio clip of it but when I insert the key and turn it all the way "ON" then hold to crank it'll make that awful sound. Didn't do it this morning but it did it today when I left work. However when I did turn the key it didn't make the noise except towards the end where it cranked it made that grinding noise for a fraction of a second. I....want to take a guess and say it's starter related? That is a educated guess. I hope it's not anything detrimental. If it does make that noise I normally turn the truck in the "OFF" position, remove key then retry. 2nd try is the charm

[Pete M]

sounds like the starter is failing to engage.  is the engine cranking when the noise happens? 

[Classy Comanche]

Originally no. I'll hear it, grit my teeth and let off, turn key to off position, remove key then reinsert crank and it turns over perfect. Now today it turned over and made the grind noise for a fraction of a second towards the end of the cranking initiation 

 

Edit: I also purchased a brand new starter from Acdelco on rockauto. 

[Pete M]

are you saying the noise was happening, then you replaced the starter, but the noise persists? 

 

I guess the worst worst case is you have some stripped teeth on the big flywheel gear.  

[Classy Comanche]

No I'm saying the noise will happen then I remove the key, and crank it again. The starter hasn't been replaced yet. I just noted I purchased one to be replaced. And is does it every so often, not all the time. The starter for all I know is still factory. The noise I hear is metal on metal. Awful sound. I have purchased a new starter off rockauto to be put on. I wasn't saying I had it put on then it kept doing it. But if it was the flywheel, is that major? I looked online and those are like $50-$70

[87MJTIM]

For an automatic, it’s called a flex plate. (Same thing, only different.)

 

To change a flex plate, you need to drop the transmission. 

[Classy Comanche]

Man. Okay that sounds major. I hope the starter fixes it. But to clarify I turn the key and it sometimes makes a grinding noise. Metal on metal sound. I turn the key off, remove it then try again and it's fine. I have not had any other starter put on. But yeah. I've already requested my flywheel to be looked at

[Pete M]

if it's the starter not fully engaging, then each time it happens it makes the flexplate/flywheel teeth a little worse.    sounds like you found your weekend project.  

[Classy Comanche]

I've been talking back and forth with the guy that's been working on it. He believes it's the starter as you said Pete not engaging all the way. If I had say like stripped teeth on my flexplate how could I tell without looking at it? Would it show any signs of it being damaged/stripped

[acfortier]

Should be able to pull the starter/inspection plate to see the teeth, then have someone rotate it via the crank bolt to see the entire thing?

[87MJTIM]

57 minutes ago, acfortier said:

Should be able to pull the starter/inspection plate to see the teeth, then have someone rotate it via the crank bolt to see the entire thing?

[Classy Comanche]

Perfect. Yep. That sounds fantastic. I'm so glad it can be inspected. From what I have also read online from me typing in "grinding noise when starting vehicle" was like the starter could be off center which is possible but wouldn't it be grinding all the time? The other was a simple failing starter. Not engaging/engaging all the way, weak solenoid. I did also read up on the flexplate. I did read that it was fairly difficult to damage or strip teeth on them. I drive this truck like a grandpa everywhere I go, it was driven easy by my grandparents. Most it's towed was a small John boat. So from like talking to you and the guy that is going to work on it Friday it sounds like the solenoid is going out/not engaging all the way. I'm not saying the plate isn't damaged. I so hope it isn't. But I've seen and heard tell of flexplates living as long as the engine. I'm definitely going to have the mechanic look and see if the starter is loose, damaged, weak/old and have him check and see if my plate it okay. Thank yall so much. Very glad to be a part of this group

[gogmorgo]

First thing I’d look for is loose bolts. If you can move the starter around that’s likely your issue. It’s also possible something happened to cause a misalignment… double check the bellhousing is properly bolted to the engine while you’re under there. 
But my guess is the starter is just plain worn out, and not getting the gear far enough out to engage the flywheel before it starts spinning. Compare how much movement there is in the starter gear to the new one while you have them both off. 

[Classy Comanche]

Oh absolutely. Yeah I have a slight sneaking suspicion it's loose. Its definitely old. My hunch is that it's worn out or loose/misaligned. Despite it being driven lightly previously before me they never really did "maintenance" to it. Yeah sure change fluids and whatnot. But every part so far that has messed up on me has been OEM from '87. Radiator, hoses, bottle, trackbar, gas hose.....etc. I'm definitely having the mechanic take a look. But I'll see if I can wedge myself under my truck and try to give my starter a small push or two to see if it tries to give

[gogmorgo]

Every part has a wear limit. You’re pushing a machine far beyond what it’s useful life was intended to be, so you’re going to run into lots of those wear limits. It’s not really a lack of maintenance. There’s no recommended replacement intervals on hoses, at least not in this industry. 
 

Starters are very easy to change. Disconnect the battery, pull the nuts off the positive and trigger posts on the solenoid, pull two bolts out (keep track of which goes where), pull the starter out. Put the new starter in the hole, get the bolts started, make sure the starter is properly seated before tightening them down, then hook up your two wires on the solenoid, reconnect the battery, and you’re done. 

[Classy Comanche]

That is very true. Didn't think of it that way. While I'm thinking about it on a side note. Anyone know how to adjust the TPS on a I6 4.0L? Idle seems to jump up when I drive. Idles lower/normal when first cranked. After driving it jumps up higher than usual. Runs great it just idles high when put in park from driving. No vac leaks. Checked by me and the mechanic twice. Could the TPS just be dirty? The butterfly valve is clean. Cleaned with carburetor cleaner. Just didn't know how to reset the position on a TPS if I needed to.

[Pete M]

I do believe the link in my signature has the instructions for the renix TPS.   

 

side note, don't use carb cleaner on a rig with an O2 sensor.   use a throttle body cleaner, as they are sensor safe. 

[fiatslug87]

Cruiser54 also has the TPS adjustment procedure in his tips.

[Classy Comanche]

Aye, awsome! I'll take a look and have the guy that works on my truck take a look although he's on here and familiar with both Cruiser and you Pete. Thank yall! I'm sure he knows, I just didn't think of that