Cheapest/best engine swap?

[CO MJ]

I have an 89 renix 4.0 and I'm pretty sure the block is toast, so likely looking to swap the engine soon. Is a renix block the same as any other years? I haven't been able to find any remaned blocks for this year.
 

If a block only replacement isn't available, I'd like to swap the engine entirely. Cheaper being better, ideal for me would be < 1k but willing to adjust my budget for a better engine, up to maybe 2k. Just trying to determine what is possible at various price ranges and then decide if it's worth it to me. Ultimately this is just a daily for me and doesn't need any serious performance capability.
 

Aside from pulling a junk engine from LKQ, it looks like I could purchase a number of compatible 4.0s from various years of xj/zj/tj. I suppose I will likely need some of the electronics as well, nbd, would rather get away from the renix parts before they become super scarce. I guess the newer the year the better? Any significant changes in any of these? Any particular model/year I should look for to get best bang for my buck?
 

Aside from a 4.0 block, should I consider a diesel or another engine that fits? I'd prefer not having to modify the body but I don't think fabrication wise I have any seriously limiting ability so would consider some less extensive swaps. No idea what the cost of something to this effect would be.

 

Thanks in advance, any suggestions appreciated.

[Dickinson County Comanche]

I believe the 91+ have a better cam profile, but it’s almost cheaper just to buy an beat up running XJ and gut it for the engine and electrical components. You’ll have to do some modifications to the harness to make it work + add the later gauge clusters and ignition column? (Not entirely sure) If you eventually decide to stay with Renix, a later “HO” block will work just fine with a Renix head/intake. I have a 92 block in my 89 Renix and it runs just fine. 

[Pete M]

later 4.0s can definitely be used.  

 

what are your compression numbers?

[Smokeyyank]

You can use the later long blocks. The head and such is where things get weird. 

[CO MJ]

12 hours ago, Dickinson County Comanche said:

I believe the 91+ have a better cam profile, but it’s almost cheaper just to buy an beat up running XJ and gut it for the engine and electrical components. You’ll have to do some modifications to the harness to make it work + add the later gauge clusters and ignition column? (Not entirely sure) If you eventually decide to stay with Renix, a later “HO” block will work just fine with a Renix head/intake. I have a 92 block in my 89 Renix and it runs just fine. 

 

That's great to know, sounds like my best case cost sceneario is finding a block and leaving everything else alone. I'll look into which years/models those come from. Tough to find just a block though, would rather buy than pulling so I don't end up with another crapped out block though.

 

11 hours ago, Pete M said:

later 4.0s can definitely be used.  

 

what are your compression numbers?

 

It's been a while since I tested but compression seemed alright. Currently without compressor so I can't do a leak down, but I am testing exhaust gas in the coolant and I just had the head decked, magnafluxed, and leak checked. Fingers crossed maybe I just got a $#!&amp; head gasket, but I was getting gases in the coolant before I pulled the head so I think most likely culprit is a cracked block. Will find out this weekend for sure, just trying to have my options ready if it is.

I think another consideration is that my HVAC components are all in pretty sad shape, and I'd like the nicer relay box/coolant bottle mounts from a newer XJ to clean up the bay a bit so it might be worth trying to pull it all from the yard, if I can beat the scalpers to it. 

[cruiser54]

Cam is exactly the same in early HOs.

 

Want the complete skinny?

 

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

HO INTO RENIX SWAP

OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 76 COMMENTS EDIT

 

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe. And generally Pooh-poohed by those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

• XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange.
• 2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange.
• YJ and 1997-1999 4.0L TJ blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ
• XJ/ZJ blocks, and the 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications.

TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ.

Now that we know which engines we can use, let’s get down to business.

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from an HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head at the rear for the sender.

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use a new Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.

An alternative on exhaust manifolds:

As far as exhaust, you can use the Renix exhaust manifold and be fine.
If you want to use the HO exhaust manifold, you must go with an HO headpipe and screw your O2 sensor into that headpipe. Standard Renix harness is plenty long to do so.
A bung can be welded into the HO manifold to accept the EGR tube.

You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO design. See Tips #12 – Setting Your 4.0 to #1 TDC and #13 – Distributor Indexing to be sure you get the distributor installed correctly.

The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.

 

XJ: “Regular” (not Grand) Cherokees ’84-’01
ZJ: Grand Cherokee ’93-’98 (Gen1)
WJ: Grand Cherokee ’99-’04 (Gen2)
YJ: Wrangler ’87-’95 (Gen1)
TJ: Wrangler ’97-’06 (Gen2)

[pago cruiser]

As your Post was titled Cheapest/Best...

Attached is some "Stroker 101" info from the Best perspective: several options within.

 

This site has a LOT of current info as well:

Jeep Strokers - Homepage

 

As I rationalize it... there is a lot of time invested into an engine swap; and in general, that time is about the same whether you replace your existing engine with a JY "lo miles" 100k mile engine, or a rebuilt stocker, or Hi Performance Stroker. A "build-it-yourself" Stroker, at maybe $5k, amortized over say 10 years (about how long I intend to keep mine, unless I go Tango Uniform first... ), is about $1.50/day, less than you would spend on a cup of Denny's coffee each day.    

 

Keeping with the coffee analogy, if your brew of choice was say, Starbucks, for $5/day you could afford to drop the Comanche off at a boutique Jeep Off-Road place and have them do all the work; come back a month later and drive away...

 

All that said, if your day regularly starts with consuming a Starbucks venti salted caramel mocha frappucino with five pumps of frap roast, four pumps of caramel sauce, four pumps of caramel syrup, three pumps of mocha, three pumps of toffee nut syrup, double blended with extra whipped cream, you would also probably live longer if you spent that $ on a Stroker...

 

Stroker Engines 1.pdf

[75sv1]

The camshafts changed in '96 as far as lift and duration. Then again in '99, as to a thrust plate. Still, you can use the 'newer' blocks. Also, in '96, they added location dowel pins for the head. You can pull them or not. I think I am the only one to have issues with those dowels and an earlier head.