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Door Removal/Bolt Upgrade?


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Hey All,

 

I'm trying to get my driver door off so I can put on a better shell that was given to me when I bought my truck. I'm having a real hard time getting these torx bolts to break free. Several are stripped pretty bad and I can't get a good bite on the heads with a vice grip. Anyone have any wisdom on how to extract these stupid things?

 

Also, can anyone recommend a good hex-head replacement bolt? I'd like to make this process much easier going forward if possible.

 

Thanks!

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You’ll have to remove the fender for access. It’s the only way to take them out straight. The bolts that are closest to the inside of the door can be removed from inside the jamb. The remaining 4 can be accessed using the holes in the hinge with the fender removed. Keep removing them in increments until they are all loose. If it’s stripped too badly to be removed correctly, you can drill them and use a screw extractor but you have to do that through from the fender side as well. Whatever bolt you use will need to be a button head so the door can shut all the way. You can use an Allen or hex head bolt but they are more likely to strip than a good torx head bolt. Team Cherokee has oem replacements or you can go aftermarket and use Fastenal or McMaster Carr. I’ve never had a problem with the oem bolts even on very rusty rigs as long as I remove them through the factory provisions and stay square on the bolt.

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I bought hex flange bolts off boltdepot.com ....as you can see I had to grind the bottom most bolt a little to clearance it.

 

Much much easier to install/remove. The passenger side I had to grind off 1 or two of the old bolt heads then remove the bolt body with vice grips.

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I remember jeepdriver long ago had a hack where you take one of those torx bits like what you put in a screw or a drill and a 1/4” wrench and put the box end on the bit and you’ll have a good tool that’ll squeeze in there well without complex work arounds. 

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It’s much easier to just remove the fender and use the impact with a torx bit. Doesn’t take very long at all to remove the fender. I’ve also used the 1/4” ratcheting socket slipped over a torx bit but it’s very hard to get enough pressure to keep from slipping the socket on the head. 

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13 minutes ago, ghetdjc320 said:

It’s much easier to just remove the fender and use the impact with a torx bit. Doesn’t take very long at all to remove the fender. I’ve also used the 1/4” ratcheting socket slipped over a torx bit but it’s very hard to get enough pressure to keep from slipping the socket on the head. 

The design principle of the Torx is that you don't need pressure on it to stop it from camming out.  If the bit is in straight and fully seated, and the torque is applied only in the correct direction, and it is undamaged, it will not cam out.

 

I used to hate them until I realized how they work.  Clean them out, use the correct bit (and not some 10 cent junk you got from Mao's Candyland either), make sure it's seated, apply the torque correctly.  You will snap the bit off before camming it out or rounding the fastener.

 

OP is still at the point he probably has to remove the fender, and should just to avoid making things worse.  Things are going downhill rapidly for him.  I'd try a rounded bolt extractor, then probably just get annoyed and weld a nut on to it.  One might be able to get it turning with a cold chisel and a hammer too.  Eh, I don't know, not getting in this situation is the ideal solution.

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