turn signal indicators Intermittant Turn Signal Indicator

[White_Comanche]

Before writing this I scoured Comanche Club to see if any MJ owners have had this same issue. After much searching I've found some posts with similar problems, but not exact matches.

 

In my instrument cluster, the LEFT Turn Signal Indicator sometimes works (and) sometimes it doesn't. It's quite finicky and annoying to not see blinking. Probably 40% of the time it illuminates, while 60% it remains dark.

 

- Replaced both front end Turn Signal sockets & bulbs
- Replaced both front end Side Marker sockets & bulbs
- Replaced every bulb in the Tail Lights
- Turn signal Flasher is NEW
- All exterior lights function properly
- All fuses are NEW and none are blown
- TURN B/U fuse terminals feel nice and tight
- Cleaned the fuse block with QD® Electronic Cleaner & Canned Air

 

Nearly every Tail Light socket had serious corrosion (the old front Turn Signals did as well). Had to use precision pliers, PB Blaster and a heat gun to work out each of the broken bulbs. Was a real mess. All exterior bulbs now have dialectic grease.

 

Below is what I thought of doing to get the indicator working properly:
• Clean up instrument panel ground below the dash
• Remove instrument cluster to clean and/or replace blinker light sockets & bulbs
• Separate and clean out that wire connector behind the driver's headlight

 

Am I on the right track to resolve this issue? Or would you guys recommend trying something else?

[eaglescout526]

I would do both the cluster ground improvement and check the bulb in the cluster and make sure it’s contacts are good. In high moisture areas you could have some corrosion going on. And I'm sure cruiser will chime in and say to clean the connector behind the headlamp regardless as it is not a weatherproof plug for some reason or another. 

[cruiser54]

Go for it. 

[White_Comanche]

Thanks Eaglescout for the note. I'll report back on the results when I do this project soon. I didn't know that plug behind the left headlight isn't weatherproof. That makes since why attention to the plug is so often mentioned for various electrical issues.

 

I have reviewed Cruiser's Tips a few times. It's quite a good write up for people like me who don't have any real experience working on vehicles.

 

I bought my Comanche in August of 2021 and am slowing working out the problem areas. It's awesome that a resource like Comanche Club is dedicated solely to these older trucks. Glad it's around.

[eaglescout526]

No problem and good luck!

[White_Comanche]

Tackled part of this project today. Everything went fairly well considering it all. Refreshing the instrument cluster ground was a snap. However, disconnecting the electrical connection behind the driver's headlight was very tedious. The mating pair was very corroded and difficult to break apart after these 36 years. I ended up snapping off one of the side clips. Spraying loads of QD® electrical connection cleaner did a good job of flushing everything out.

 

REFRESHED INSTRUMENT CLUSTER GROUND

 

CORRODED FEMALE END

 

CORRODED MALE END

 

CLEANED FEMALE END

 

 

You guys know if this male-end connector can still be purchased? Maybe Dorman or some other manufacturer... or am I SOL on this? I really don't know what this connection is specifically called either for research purposes.

 

Thanks for reading and I appreciate any input.

[howeitsdone]

11 minutes ago, White_Comanche said:

You guys know if this male-end connector can still be purchased? Maybe Dorman or some other manufacturer... or am I SOL on this? I really don't know what this connection is specifically called either for research purposes.

Internal code is C102, but that won't get you very far unfortunately. Would be best to pull one from a JY/Classifieds or just purchase a weatherproof 10-pin connector and install in-place. At least that way you start corrosion free.

[eaglescout526]

Yeah join the club on finding that connector. It’s some weird AMC Chrysler connector that I have not been able to find anywhere. Same with damn pack cons. But a weatherproof 10 pin is probably wayyy better than what it is currently unless you’re a stickler(like me) for OEM. 

[White_Comanche]

Just seen on Cruiser54's famous relay/receptacle refreshing webpage with the exact same broken clip. Must be fairly easy to break. It's very similar to Bakelite plastic. I'll see how snug this thing mates together tomorrow. If it doesn't feel right I'll do more research on 10-pin weatherproof connectors. Thanks guys.

 

[JustEmptyEveryPocket]

15 minutes ago, White_Comanche said:

snug this thing mates

for a temporary repair, slip a ziptie between the wires on each end and snug it up. That will keep the connector tight for sure. Put two if you are worried about it.

[cruiser54]

19 minutes ago, JustEmptyEveryPocket said:

for a temporary repair, slip a ziptie between the wires on each end and snug it up. That will keep the connector tight for sure. Put two if you are worried about it.

Do that and forget about it!! Put dielectric grease on it first. 

It took 36 years to get that way. How old are you now? 

[AZJeff]

13 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

Yeah join the club on finding that connector. It’s some weird AMC Chrysler connector that I have not been able to find anywhere. Same with damn pack cons. But a weatherproof 10 pin is probably wayyy better than what it is currently unless you’re a stickler(like me) for OEM. 

If you are trying to actually RESTORE an MJ to the way it looked the day it left the factory, the OEM connectors are obviously needed.

 

That said, the connectors AMC/Chrysler used in the MJ are not the best for an automotive application.  In fact, they are pretty low-rent, as far as connectors go.  And I say this as an engineer who used to spec. out connectors for adverse environments

 

For a daily driver or resto-mod vehicle, there are lots of choices for multi-pin connectors that are FAR better than the OEM ones, and I would STRONGLY urge MJ owners to replace original troublesome connectors with something better.

[cruiser54]

Or just solder and shrink tube them. That connector was there to ease the assembly process anyway.

[White_Comanche]

In the morning with a fresh eye and mind I realized that I could epoxy this broken clip after the connector was mated together. Yes, this connector does snug. With this clip reattached it prevents the assembly vibrating apart. For added strength I wrapped a loop of electrical tape around just for the clips. I did have zip ties in mind, but after this light bulb moment it seemed unnecessary.

 

ATTACHED BROKEN CLIP WITH EPOXY *AFTER* MATING CONNECTOR

 

ELECTRICAL TAPE REINFORCEMENT AFTER EPOXY CURED

 

Unfortunately... this weekend of work did not get my left turn signal to light up. Thankfully, all the exterior and interior lights still function normally like nothing happened.

 

So I guess, with the instrument cluster ground refreshed, and this connector properly cleaned of corrosion, the only thing left to do is remove the gauge cluster and see if that left turn signal bulb and socket needs replaced.

 

Am I going down the logical path here?

 

Thanks guys for all the input while I get this issue figured out.

 

[howeitsdone]

Nice work.

 

Just noticed you only said the cluster doesn't illuminate. Does the blinker itself work?

[Ωhm]

 

C156_H should have 2 wires on one terminal. Make sure you got a good crimp there.

[White_Comanche]

21 hours ago, PocketsEmptied said:

Just noticed you only said the cluster doesn't illuminate. Does the blinker itself work?

I think you may not have read my introduction to this topic, or I got lazy at writing the latest update. Basically, after all this effort my issue still remains... which is my LEFT Turn Signal Indicator bulb in the cluster doesn't illuminate most of the time. Sometimes it does work however.

 

All other lights work inside the cluster — except there's a few tiny bulbs left of the steering wheel that don't light up anymore — such as the green "4WD" light. I presume these are burnt out. There's another, but I can't remember which.

 

All my exterior lights work as they should. In other words... when pressing down on the stalk (making a left turn) the left cluster blinker is usually dark, but other drivers can always see that I am indeed about to make a left turn (because all exterior lights work).

 

Does this change what you think the problem might be?

[Ωhm]

16 minutes ago, White_Comanche said:

Does this change what you think the problem might be?

 

No.

[White_Comanche]

On 5/1/2022 at 7:47 PM, Ωhm said:

C156_H should have 2 wires on one terminal. Make sure you got a good crimp there.

Keep in mind that I'm learning with my Comanche on how to "work on vehicles". I'm very much green. Please tell me more specifically what this means. Does this have to do with the fuse panel, or somewhere else?

[Ωhm]

Midway down your steering column, you should find C156. This connects the Turn Signal SW with the IP Harness. Of those two wires at C156_H on the IP harness side, one goes to the LF Turn Signal Bulb up front, and the other wire goes to the LH Turn Signal Bulb in the Cluster. This is just a quick check before your need to remove the Cluster.

[cruiser54]

Long and skinny white plug. Really flat under the column. 

[White_Comanche]

On 5/1/2022 at 7:47 PM, Ωhm said:

C156_H should have 2 wires on one terminal. Make sure you got a good crimp there.

 

On 5/3/2022 at 3:42 PM, cruiser54 said:

Long and skinny white plug. Really flat under the column. 

I did a preliminary inspection of this turn signal connection. Yes, there is indeed two (2) wires in 'H'. They seem to be seated and crimped securely. No signs of distress. This C156 on my '86 happens to be black in color, but I knew I located it by the shape of the plug.

 

This points me directly to removing the instrument cluster now. Guessing either that left blinker socket or bulb went south.

 

If you guys have done this before, please let me know if there's anything to be mindful of when removing the cluster assembly. Might not get to this project for a few weekends... but it'll be good to know of anything prior.

[eaglescout526]

2 minutes ago, White_Comanche said:

'86

Ah crap. This makes a bit more sense. The 84-86 cluster printed circuits are meh quality and have been know to have the lamination separate from the copper strands and corrode worse than the later printed circuits. 
 

As for getting the cluster out. A few things to know. Take your time with the dash bezel. 4 screws hold it in place. Two above the cluster, one at the cig lighter and one at the headlamp switch. Then slowly remove the bezel. Once out there will be 6 1/4” hex heads holding the cluster in place. Once removed see how far you can get the cluster out. Remove the connectors if possible and the speedo connection is held in by a metal spring that you’ll need to depress and pull on the cable to separate the two from each other. Then it should pull right out once all has been unplugged from it. 

[Ωhm]

FYI

 

 

C156_H ├———————————————┤C203_11

 

 

 

 

[White_Comanche]

I was finally able to remove my instrument cluster this weekend. To recap, the reason for doing this is to get my Left Turn Signal Bulb (in the cluster) to work properly. Sometimes the bulb illuminates... but most of the time it does not. Work done prior to this consisted of refreshing the cabin instrument ground, cleaning up the front drivers side C102 electrical connector, and finally checked out if that C156 turn signal connector had any loose wire crimps (there were not).

 

Everything went well taking the cluster out. Unbolting the speedometer cable clip from the suspension arm created enough slack for removal. Below are pictures detailing everything.

 

157,145 MILES

 

C203 CONNECTOR

 

C204 CONNECTOR

 

EMPTY LEFT TURN SIGNAL SOCKET

 

LEFT TURN SIGNAL BULB & SOCKET LOOKS 'OK'

 

PARTIAL DE-LAMINATION DETAIL

 

CONTINUITY TESTING

 

For some background, I know the previous owner removed the instrument cluster. It was to replace the speedometer cable. If I'm not mistaken, my central C203 connector seemed a tad-too-easy to remove. It may not have been positively clipped in. Dielectric grease was present.

 

I did many continuity tests to check the "bridge" between each light socket. Checked most, if not all of them. Everything beeped. 1 or 2 sockets needed to be removed to re-seat the bulb. After this, all electric connections now flow.

 

I'm really unsure of what to do besides what I already have bullet pointed. Have next to zero experience with this stuff, but hey, I already have a few successful Comanche projects under the belt.

 

Next to do...

• Install all brand new bulbs

• Burnish all the brass socket contacts

• Do a continuity test between the turn signal connector (under dash) and the middle C102 connector

 

Is there anything else you guys think I should do before closing this thing up? ...other than some polishing, dusting and lubing.

 

Thanks a lot guys. This site is invaluable.