Rear DS problems

[HOrnbrod]

Just by eyeballing your tc angle it should work. As TNT says, these slip yokes will handle a 15* u-joint operating angle, although 12* would be max for me. :eek: Have you measured the operating angle of the front joint? It's the angle of the tranny/tc minus the driveshaft slope angle. Obviously your driveshaft slope is the larger number. I think you said the tranny and pinion angles were equal @ 5*? Looks like you might be right at a 12-15 degree operating angle.

[CEThomas]

When I get home tomorrow I will throw it back on and check all the angles with weight on the axle and with the axle off the ground and see what we have.

[feerocknok]

That looks like about 8"-9" of lift.

We did not check at the start of the project, but just went out and checked and it's 44 1/4" at the center of the rear opening.

Lift height for the rear can be measured by finding the distance between the axle tube and frame, just inside of the bumpstop. Stock height is 9.2". Going from the ground to anything else would bring tire size into the equation.

 

Good luck on your driveshaft issue!

[TNT]

Lift height for the rear can be measured by finding the distance between the axle tube and frame, just inside of the bumpstop. Stock height is 9.2". Going from the ground to anything else would bring tire size into the equation.

 

Good luck on your driveshaft issue!

 

Is that from the frame just inside the bumpstop to the top of the axle tube or the bottom of the axle tube?

[HOrnbrod]

Top :cheers:

[CEThomas]

That looks like about 8"-9" of lift.

We did not check at the start of the project, but just went out and checked and it's 44 1/4" at the center of the rear opening.

Lift height for the rear can be measured by finding the distance between the axle tube and frame, just inside of the bumpstop. Stock height is 9.2". Going from the ground to anything else would bring tire size into the equation.

 

Good luck on your driveshaft issue!

 

Thanks,

 

Will see what we have when I get home from work.

[pingpong]

I have seen Yj's rotate the 8.8 up till it took 7 qts of oil to fill it :eek: So rotating it up might not be ideal but can be done easy. For me that would be easier then hunting down a YJ yoke.. and cheaper :brows:

[CEThomas]

Well give me the specs for the YJ yoke and I will see if I can find something cheep. Did find a new one for $75 :eek: But do not want to throw a lot of money at it or rotate the axle with ont knowing for sure it will fix the problem.

 

Wanted to go SYE down the road, maybe now is the time to just save up and fork out the money :roll:

[pingpong]

don't forget if you do a SYE, you will need a new driveshaft :brows: Thats why I suggested the rotating the axle. As a temp fix.. you could do the t-case drop. Not the best option, but would work. A sye and D/S is a lot of chrome to come off of this time of year ;)

[CEThomas]

I know, $480 - $580 + shipping :eek:

 

Already have $$$ in new u-joints and cutting the DS down :cry:

 

But as my welding is not the best ;) I would have the cost of taking the DS and having the purches moved then have them moved back down the road:roll:

 

With the amount of lift we have and the fact we need the front up another 1" to reduce the rake, we are not going to be doing any rock crawing or hard wheeling, a drop can not be that bad, can it :roll:

[CEThomas]

Also how much drop is a T-case drop kit??? I will lower to t-case tonight and see how that helps :cheers:

[oldjeep]

Also how much drop is a T-case drop kit??? I will lower to t-case tonight and see how that helps :cheers:

 

No reason to buy a "kit" All you need is longer bolts for the crossmember and something to use for spacers (Washers, drilled block of steel, etc)

[pingpong]

Some ppl make their own t-case drops :D Basically some 1x1 about 8" long (x2) a nice 7/16 drill bit, and 4 longer bolts. and call it good.

 

 

As far as leveling the front.. change the rear to an XJ shackle.. should get it closer :brows:

[TNT]

I know, $480 - $580 + shipping :eek:

 

Already have $$$ in new u-joints and cutting the DS down :cry:

 

But as my welding is not the best ;) I would have the cost of taking the DS and having the purches moved then have them moved back down the road:roll:

 

With the amount of lift we have and the fact we need the front up another 1" to reduce the rake, we are not going to be doing any rock crawing or hard wheeling, a drop can not be that bad, can it :roll:

 

With the YJ yoke you shouldn't have and bind on the front of the shaft.

If the rear of the shaft doesn't bind with the angles you have them set to you should be good to go without a transfercase drop.

[TNT]

To level it out, build a 3/16" wall 2" x 6" tube bumper for it. That should drop the rear some, help the operating angle on the driveshaft and protect the rear of that nice box you have on it.

[Oizarod115]

as far as SYE's go, you can always get a front driveshaft re-tubed for cheaper than say a tom woods DS would be :dunno:

[CEThomas]

To level it out, build a 3/16" wall 2" x 6" tube bumper for it. That should drop the rear some, help the operating angle on the driveshaft and protect the rear of that nice box you have on it.

 

Got a 4x4 tube bumper :D , but when we drop the winch on we will be back to where we are now :D

[CEThomas]

Thanks,

 

Going home to night and play around it and see what we get.

 

Anyone know the bolt size to do a t-case drop so I can pick some on the way home?

[warf90]

I think I would try and take some lift out of the rear. That sure looks like about 9" of lift in the rear. Mine is at 7" and it does not look near that high. At 7" of lift in the rear, I had no issues with my rear drive shaft. I think if I would have went higher, I would have had do do the SYE.

 

Tim

[pingpong]

They are a funky metric size... I wish I could remember

[JeepcoMJ]

t-case drop is around an inch, some go to 2 inches. on my 89 MJ I went to 1.25" drop and made my own spacers...all 8 of them

 

here's pics...it had studs on the driver's side frame for the crossmember, they had to go for the drop kit to work...so they did but the nut for one broke off.

fixed it this way.

then just welded that stud down...

 

spacers 1" OD, 1/4" walls, 1/2" ID

completely installed crossmember

d-shaft will gained 1.25" or more of input on the slip-yoke from the drop

[JeepcoMJ]

if I were to drop it again, I would make just 4 of these spacers and install them on the inner side, and get a chunk of C-channel or square tubing for the outside edges...then I could make it longer than needed, and angle the edges for some better approach (in case I get hung up). I also made a spare spacer for the t-case skid plate.

[CEThomas]

I think I would try and take some lift out of the rear. That sure looks like about 9" of lift in the rear. Mine is at 7" and it does not look near that high. At 7" of lift in the rear, I had no issues with my rear drive shaft. I think if I would have went higher, I would have had do do the SYE.

 

Tim

Not sure what went wrong :eek: All we did was a 8.8 SOA with stock 4x4 springs off a 86MJ. To lower I would about have to go SUA as the 4x4 springs only gave me 1" more lift then my broken 2wd springs :nuts:

[CEThomas]

They are a funky metric size...

 

Great :mad: that is always fun to track down in Columbus :nuts:

[JeepcoMJ]

CET, how thick are your spring perches? I mean, how high off the axle are they? there are some that hug close and are less than .5" higher than the axle, but I've seen som ethat are 2" higher than the axle too.

 

look at that. then, I'm not sure, but this was the case with my 89...the rear springs were replacement springs with different arch. I could stuff 33's in the rear on "stock" suspension, so when I lifted it it ended up about where yours are. not sure but maybe you should check that out.