Rear DS problems

[HOrnbrod]

12×50mmx2-1/2" grade 8 bolts. I used 1" square tubing cut to length for the spacers. Tractor Supply carries both.

[CEThomas]

CET, how thick are your spring perches? I mean, how high off the axle are they? there are some that hug close and are less than .5" higher than the axle, but I've seen som ethat are 2" higher than the axle too.

 

look at that. then, I'm not sure, but this was the case with my 89...the rear springs were replacement springs with different arch. I could stuff 33's in the rear on "stock" suspension, so when I lifted it it ended up about where yours are. not sure but maybe you should check that out.

 

The perches are the MOPAR ones and only about 1" to 1.25" off the axle with the old top plate / shock mount between the spring and perch.

 

The springs are stock and only added about 1" more then the old springs.

 

As I think about it, the photos of the DS were taken prior to changing the springs out yesterday :eek: so the DS is off more then in the photos :mad:

[JeepcoMJ]

why not use parts from your 4wd springs to repair the 2wd ones? that will lower it back down, then with a xj shackle that's another .5" back down too

[CEThomas]

12×50mmx2-1/2" grade 8 bolts. I used 1" square tubing cut to length for the spacers. Tractor Supply carries both.

 

The 12x50mmx2-1/5 is what I need for the drop??

 

Also I am running slow today. :D

 

The bolt is 50mm with 12 thread count and 2-1/2" long :cheers:

[CEThomas]

why not use parts from your 4wd springs to repair the 2wd ones? that will lower it back down, then with a xj shackle that's another .5" back down too

 

Something to think about 8)

 

Have to lift the XJ anyway :brows:

[JeepcoMJ]

 

Something to think about 8)

 

Have to lift the XJ anyway :brows:

 

then just swap the shackles. it will give you a bit of free lift on the xj :D

[feerocknok]

Changing to an XJ shackle will rotate your pinion away from the direction you want to go and cause even more issues.

[CEThomas]

Changing to an XJ shackle will rotate your pinion away from the direction you want to go and cause even more issues.

 

Was just looking at the photos and thinking about that :chillin:

[pingpong]

If you were closer.. I would fix it for you :brows:

 

I remember when I did the SOA on pong that it gave me every bit of 6", and I made my own spring perches. IIRC the mopar set up is taller so it will give more lift.

 

Make or purchase a t-case drop.

[warf90]

Charles,

 

It looks to me that it is just too much lift for not running a SYE. When I installed my new springs, they had 5 leaves in them and they lifted the rear 10". Mine looked alot like yours does now. The place I bought them from said they were for the metric ton MJ. Any way I had to take the thickest of the leaf springs out and get a set of stock XJ shackles. Taking the thick leafs out and going to XJ shackles lowered down about 3 inches. For a total lift of 7" over stock.

 

I think that if you are going to keep it at that height, I would get the SYE. Even if you do get it to work, how long will the U joints hold up? Just my 2 cents.

[warf90]

Charles,

 

I read in the thread that you measured 44 1/4" at the center of the rear opening. I went out and measured mine. I am running 33 X12.50 tires and SOA. Mine measured 40 1/8". Hope this helps you.

 

Tim

[offroader461]

my buddy ran into the same problem when he did his SOA...he used 2wd metric ton springs and it ended up being like 8-9" of lift...

[HOrnbrod]

Charles,

 

It looks to me that it is just too much lift for not running a SYE. When I installed my new springs, they had 5 leaves in them and they lifted the rear 10". Mine looked alot like yours does now. The place I bought them from said they were for the metric ton MJ. Any way I had to take the thickest of the leaf springs out and get a set of stock XJ shackles. Taking the thick leafs out and going to XJ shackles lowered down about 3 inches. For a total lift of 7" over stock.

 

I think that if you are going to keep it at that height, I would get the SYE. Even if you do get it to work, how long will the U joints hold up? Just my 2 cents.

 

10"? :eek: :eek: I put a set of new regulation 5-leaf Metric Ton springs on mine, 1500# load capacity, and gained 3" only. Whoever built those springs had the arch all wrong. They came in two flavors; two thick leafs and three thin leafs (early), and one thick leaf and four thin leafs (1990+). Or did you go SOA when you installed your new springs?

[Kenosha Warrior]

Charles,

 

It looks to me that it is just too much lift for not running a SYE. When I installed my new springs, they had 5 leaves in them and they lifted the rear 10". Mine looked alot like yours does now. The place I bought them from said they were for the metric ton MJ. Any way I had to take the thickest of the leaf springs out and get a set of stock XJ shackles. Taking the thick leafs out and going to XJ shackles lowered down about 3 inches. For a total lift of 7" over stock.

 

I think that if you are going to keep it at that height, I would get the SYE. Even if you do get it to work, how long will the U joints hold up? Just my 2 cents.

 

10"? :eek: :eek: I put a set of new regulation 5-leaf Metric Ton springs on mine, 1500# load capacity, and gained 3" only. Whoever built those springs had the arch all wrong. They came in two flavors; two thick leafs and three thin leafs (early), and one thick leaf and four thin leafs (1990+). Or did you go SOA when you installed your new springs?

 

 

he went soa

[HOrnbrod]

Oh, okay. :cheers:

[CEThomas]

Well.

 

I checked and I have 7.3" of lift :chillin:

 

Picked up some bolts and checked what a t-case drop would do and it was a little short to make it :nuts:

 

SO I took the t-case drop back out and got the 90* grinder out :brows:

 

Works great now :D

 

It will only work as a temp fix:roll: but it will get us down the road to see what problems we run into and get the $$$ for a new DS and SYE

 

Thanks for all the help :cheers:

[pingpong]

I know you already bought one companion flange, but when you order your SYE order it with 1350 size u-joints. Might as well upgrade that while you are at it.

[CEThomas]

OK, thanks. :cheers:

[TNT]

I just pulled my driveshaft and compared total droop between the stock yoke and a YJ yoke. At a 30" shaft length I gained 12" of droop before the YJ yoke bound up, compared to a MJ shaft measured 30" down from the yoke. It gained 14 degrees of angle compared to the stock MJ yoke. With a MJ length shaft the YJ yoke would increase droop the about 18" compared past where the MJ yoke bound up at. This would be enough to run 8" of lift no problem and still have a foot of droop without coming close to binding.

[Twisty]

I just pulled my driveshaft and compared total droop between the stock yoke and a YJ yoke. At a 30" shaft length I gained 12" of droop before the YJ yoke bound up, compared to a MJ shaft measured 30" down from the yoke. It gained 14 degrees of angle compared to the stock MJ yoke. With a MJ length shaft the YJ yoke would increase droop the about 18" compared past where the MJ yoke bound up at. This would be enough to run 8" of lift no problem and still have a foot of droop without coming close to binding.

 

Now does that 12" of extra droop allow you to turn the drive shaft without the thing binding? Wouldnt the ears of the YJ yoke hit on the driveshaft end cap, because they don't have the same clearance as the YJ slip yoke?

[TNT]

I just pulled my driveshaft and compared total droop between the stock yoke and a YJ yoke. At a 30" shaft length I gained 12" of droop before the YJ yoke bound up, compared to a MJ shaft measured 30" down from the yoke. It gained 14 degrees of angle compared to the stock MJ yoke. With a MJ length shaft the YJ yoke would increase droop the about 18" compared past where the MJ yoke bound up at. This would be enough to run 8" of lift no problem and still have a foot of droop without coming close to binding.

 

Now does that 12" of extra droop allow you to turn the drive shaft without the thing binding? Wouldnt the ears of the YJ yoke hit on the driveshaft end cap, because they don't have the same clearance as the YJ slip yoke?

 

At what would be a 8" lift that had 12" of droop, the shaft spins freely without binding. It doesn't start to bind until it droops 3" more.

[Twisty]

I just pulled my driveshaft and compared total droop between the stock yoke and a YJ yoke. At a 30" shaft length I gained 12" of droop before the YJ yoke bound up, compared to a MJ shaft measured 30" down from the yoke. It gained 14 degrees of angle compared to the stock MJ yoke. With a MJ length shaft the YJ yoke would increase droop the about 18" compared past where the MJ yoke bound up at. This would be enough to run 8" of lift no problem and still have a foot of droop without coming close to binding.

 

Now does that 12" of extra droop allow you to turn the drive shaft without the thing binding? Wouldnt the ears of the YJ yoke hit on the driveshaft end cap, because they don't have the same clearance as the YJ slip yoke?

 

At what would be a 8" lift that had 12" of droop, the shaft spins freely without binding. It doesn't start to bind until it droops 3" more.

 

I see. Thanks.

[CEThomas]

Will I pulled it out of the garage last night and no bind or vibes in the drive at 20mph. Will see in a couple weeks when we get it out on the road what we have ;)