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Carbed 87 Comanche RENIX 4.0


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30 minutes ago, Eagle said:

For less than the cost of the materials to throw at a 3-D printer you can probably get a pre-made aluminum adapter for putting a two-barrel carburetor on a one-barrel manifold. You might have to drill some new mounting holes, but that's nothing.

 

Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Trans-Dapt-2025-Carburetor-Adapter/dp/B000N8GTL8/ref=sr_1_33?dchild=1&hvadid=77996736689548&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=carburetor+adapter&qid=1605654219&sr=8-33

 

 

Close. 3D filament is cheap. 

https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Filament-Printers-Natural/dp/B074W3LLJ8/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=nylon+filament&qid=1605656103&sr=8-5

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4 hours ago, Eagle said:

The AX-15 wasn't used from '86 thru '92, it was only used from '89 thru '92.

 

The AW4 automatic will function just fine without the TCU. In fact, pulling the fuse to disable the TCU is part of the diagnostics described in the factory service manual. You will have to shift it manually, and it will be missing one gear -- I don't recall offhand if that's first or second. If you get a wiring diagram, you can rig a simple toggle switch for the torque converter lockup solenoid.

Very good to know!  I plan on running it barebones, I have the Haynes manual so I'll see what I can do with the torque converter lockup solenoid.  I think it would just miss the overdrive, but who knows for sure.

 

 

4 hours ago, Tex06 said:

3D printers can handle a lot of different materials now. Nylon would probably be my 1st choice, good gas and heat resistance. In fact, my cruise control cable end (the one that attaches to the throttle body and always breaks) is 3D printed nylon. Has held up great for the past 8 months so far.

Yep!  Amazing what these printers can do.  It can make and accommodate anything I throw at it.

 

 

4 hours ago, Eagle said:

For less than the cost of the materials to throw at a 3-D printer you can probably get a pre-made aluminum adapter for putting a two-barrel carburetor on a one-barrel manifold. You might have to drill some new mounting holes, but that's nothing.

 

Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Trans-Dapt-2025-Carburetor-Adapter/dp/B000N8GTL8/ref=sr_1_33?dchild=1&hvadid=77996736689548&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=carburetor+adapter&qid=1605654219&sr=8-33

 

$24.99??? That's out of my price range :shhh: plus I've got more time on my hands right now than I know what to do with.

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You don't need the torque converter to lock up around town or on a trail. On the highway, the lockup improves gas mileage and reduces heat build-up in the tranny and tranny fluid.

 

Back in the days of the old XJ forum )the predecessor to NAXJA) there was a guy by the name of Frank Swygert who ran a Hornet with an XJ drive train.

He had it wired up so he controlled the AW4 manually with a 6-position rotary switch -- just click-click-click to run up through the gears.

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8 hours ago, Eagle said:

You don't need the torque converter to lock up around town or on a trail. On the highway, the lockup improves gas mileage and reduces heat build-up in the tranny and tranny fluid.

 

Back in the days of the old XJ forum )the predecessor to NAXJA) there was a guy by the name of Frank Swygert who ran a Hornet with an XJ drive train.

He had it wired up so he controlled the AW4 manually with a 6-position rotary switch -- just click-click-click to run up through the gears.

I remember ol' Franks car. That was a pretty slick setup back in the day.

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39 minutes ago, Tex06 said:

I remember ol' Franks car. That was a pretty slick setup back in the day.

 

Heck, that would be a pretty slick setup today -- or tomorrow.

 

You just have to remember to unlock the torque converter before you get to the stop light ...

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6 minutes ago, Eagle said:

 

Heck, that would be a pretty slick setup today -- or tomorrow.

 

You just have to remember to unlock the torque converter before you get to the stop light ...

Yeah. There's better options now though. You ever see the 4L60 controlled with a set of house light switches? It's every bit a trashy as you would think but it works!

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7 minutes ago, Eagle said:

 

Heck, that would be a pretty slick setup today -- or tomorrow.

 

You just have to remember to unlock the torque converter before you get to the stop light ...

Run the power to the lockup converter through a dual pole brake light switch like GM used for the 700R4.  They had one pole for the brake light (normally closed but the button was depressed with foot off the brake).  They added a normally open (closed with foot off the brake) switch that would cut power and disable the torque converter lockup when you press on the brake.

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