criley Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 Can anyone tell me what to look for when removing the transmission from my truck without pulling the engine? I have few tools and have never done anything like this. I'm having major pains left and right trying to get it out. I can't lower the rear of the tranny because I can't get all the crossmember bolts/nuts free. I did get the tranny bolts loose from the crossmember and the bolts out of the engine. A friend and I pried at it from top and bottom for an hour and only got it a half inch from the engine. I have the rear of the tranny lifted just enough to clear the mount from the crossmember... Plugs/wires are clear of the tranny and I'm only wanting to move it enough to get at the clutch (also has unknown problems)... What did I miss? :headpop: If anyone can, please tell me how to remove the tranny from the engine without a hoist or air tools, what to look for, etc. etc.... Thanks. 1991 4 cyl. 5 spd. I'm unsure of the exact model tranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twisty Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 I just did this with the AW4 tranny. On that one, there are 2 bolts that are almost impossible to get at without taking the crossmember off. To make it more fun, they are E12...kind of like a torx bit on a bolt. Do you have a Chiltons/Haynes manual? I know on LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW's club website there are links to FSMs that you can download. Maybe it will offer some helpful advise. Dumb question...but are the driveshafts/linkages removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
criley Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 Driveshaft is removed, shifter is removed from the top of the tranny. I got the tranny completely free of the crossmember. I do have a Hayne's manual... Which wasn't much help for me. I don't have nearly all the tools they tell you to use. It just seems like something is jamming up that won't let the output shaft slide free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86FUBAR Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 u try puting a jack under the engine on the oil pan (use a block o wood between) to take some of the weight off the input shaft and then make sure ur puling strait and it should fall out . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 Driveshaft is removed, shifter is removed from the top of the tranny. I got the tranny completely free of the crossmember. I do have a Hayne's manual... Which wasn't much help for me. I don't have nearly all the tools they tell you to use. It just seems like something is jamming up that won't let the output shaft slide free. IDC what you try, you're not getting it out with the crossmember bolted to the frame. get a breaker bar ($5 at menards for a cheapo), a correct sized socket (14,15,or 16 mm most likely), and pull. if you break the heads off the bolts, oh well. on a comanche there are 8 so the loss of 2 is insignificant. hopefully you can still retain 3 on each side. but as I say, you won't get the tranny out of there with the crossmember intact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 Yes, the cross member must be removed, that's the only way the trans can drop down, back and out. I had one BA10 (5 speed) that I tuged, pried, swore at for over an hour, just would not come back, it would turn,but not pull back, I had to use a come-along on the trans to the rear axle to "pull" it out, and found out that the in-put shaft was hung up on the pilot bearing. I just seprated a engine and trans last week, out of the truck and had the same problem, but was able to pry them apart, and could see the "wear" mark on the in-put shaft from the pilot bearing. I bet your having this same problem, so try the come-alone if you can, to pull it out of the pilot bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 is it hanging up on the exhuast thing that is tied in to the tranny mount. I no that is where mine was hung up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 ...according to his first post, he didn't take the crossmember out. that says it all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
criley Posted October 11, 2007 Author Share Posted October 11, 2007 Thanks for the input guys. It getting hung up on that bearing does sound about right. The exhaust mount on the crossmember fell off a while back so it isn't hung up on that. Even if it were i would be able to swing it out enough to get the tranny swung back enough to look at the clutch. I'm not trying to completely drop it and was kinda hoping to be able to set the tranny on the crossmember while I was messing with the other stuff. I'm trying this because my clutch froze up then freed up to the point it isn't working. There's no feedback pressure on the clutch pedal with or without it running and won't go into any gear while running. It isn't using fluid and has plenty of pressure at the clutch master cylinder. I just wanted to peek inside and see if I can find what happened. Worked fine until it froze up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 is it 4wd? if 4wd, you won't get it pulled back enough because the tranny tunnel is in the way. if 2wd, you'll still be lucky if you do. 2 bolts on the crossmember. which ones, and which side? they've gotta come off so you can actually see what's going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 That's why I explained it the way I did, I've had 2 hang up on the pilot bearing, one worst that the other. But there is no way your going to "look" at the clutch with leaving the trans sitting on the cross member, don't forget, the clutch "disk" is behind the presser plate, and you can't see the disk with out taking off the presser plate, and your not going to be able to take off the presser plate with the trans 2 inches away. You also will not be able to see the slave cyl with the trans up there. But what you saying about the lack of presser, the clutch froze up, and not getting into gear with the engine running, it sounds like your slave cyl is shot, even thought it's not leaking, it's blowen out internally. The soft line from the master cyl to the slave also could be shot, that's a $18 part that's worth replacing, with or with out a new clutch kit. I know your try to make it easy, but enought of us here are telling you the easy way, drop the cross member, and drop the trans down and out, that is the easy way. If you need to get a trans jack, get one, or borrow one, this is the easy and only way to get it done. You have gone thru this much, get a new clutch kit, presser plate, disk, slave cyl and that includes the pilot bearing, and replace that for sure. A good kit is like $140, and your done for another 100,000 miles :D Also inspect your flywheel for cracks and burns, and replace with new if you need to, don't try to get it ground down, get a new one. Also a good time to replace the input and output seals on the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
criley Posted October 22, 2007 Author Share Posted October 22, 2007 Ok guys, I'm in a bit of a pinch. If anyone has a used slave cylinder and/or a little time with the tools to do it, could anyone give me a hand with this? I have no budjet or transportation so I wouldn't be able to pay anything upfront. I really need the truck to find some work. I would greatly appreciate anything towards this project. I would even do all the work if the tools were loaned or brought out while I did the work. I live in the Indianapolis, IN area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Was it leaking? Now that it's apart, it's kind of late to tell you, but I used corn oil (for cooking) to stop mine from leaking. Even the master stopped dripping almost totally! (just don't think about reusing them later!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Was it leaking? Now that it's apart, it's kind of late to tell you, but I used corn oil (for cooking) to stop mine from leaking. Even the master stopped dripping almost totally! (just don't think about reusing them later!) Cooking oil?? I need a little explanation about this one. That isn't one of those sawdust in the tranny tricks is it? If it is I Love It!! lol But for real tell me how that works.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 It's thicker than brake fluid and it makes the seals swell a bit (It's fun getting the lid on and off now) but it's worked for 3 months so far. Every now and then I have to double clutch because the master doesn't catch but I couldn't keep fluid in for more than 5 clutch applications before and I was in the middle of moving. I'm swapping out for an auto anyways, so I figured I'd try it. (Do NOT use it in your brake system!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
criley Posted October 25, 2007 Author Share Posted October 25, 2007 Was it leaking? Now that it's apart, it's kind of late to tell you, but I used corn oil (for cooking) to stop mine from leaking. Even the master stopped dripping almost totally! (just don't think about reusing them later!) It isn't leaking because I haven't added any fluid to the clutch system since I replaced the clutch master cylinder. I have plenty of pressure in the system but no response from the clutch. I tested it by placing my hand on the master cylinder while someone else pushed in on the clutch. My hand was pushed out and sucked back in when we did it. I know I need to at least pull the tranny to find the problem. The main problem I have now is the fact I need it running in a week so it won't get towed and so I can get back to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 It's thicker than brake fluid and it makes the seals swell a bit (It's fun getting the lid on and off now) but it's worked for 3 months so far. Every now and then I have to double clutch because the master doesn't catch but I couldn't keep fluid in for more than 5 clutch applications before and I was in the middle of moving. I'm swapping out for an auto anyways, so I figured I'd try it. (Do NOT use it in your brake system!) so it works better than brake fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 It's thicker than brake fluid and it makes the seals swell a bit (It's fun getting the lid on and off now) but it's worked for 3 months so far. Every now and then I have to double clutch because the master doesn't catch but I couldn't keep fluid in for more than 5 clutch applications before and I was in the middle of moving. I'm swapping out for an auto anyways, so I figured I'd try it. (Do NOT use it in your brake system!) so it works better than brake fluid? no! if your truck is functioning fine don't do it... just use brake fluid. he's saying if it's leakin and you're in a pinch that it'll slow up and in his case stop the leak. but if it aint broke don't fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 plus if it does leak it won't kill your fuse box!!!! I think I'm going try this till I muster up the cash for a new m/c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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