Jump to content

Distributor index


Recommended Posts

Decided to tackle the indexing and after setting #1 to tdc and cutting the cap I installed the cap to see where it lines up and it seems pretty accurate to me. Wondering if it would be worth continuing or not.

IMG_20200415_120818549.jpg

IMG_20200415_120810873.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, 1990Comanche said:

Decided to tackle the indexing and after setting #1 to tdc and cutting the cap I installed the cap to see where it lines up and it seems pretty accurate to me. Wondering if it would be worth continuing or not.

IMG_20200415_120818549.jpg

IMG_20200415_120810873.jpg

I am going to be doing the exact same thing. Thanks for the picture.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, silvertwinkiehobo said:

This ignition is not adjustable; to do so can cause mechanical engine damage, because the computer needs it with both ignition and injector timing.

 

No. It won't........

You can unplug the wiring out of the bottom of the dizzy and it will run just fine. The ECU takes over. 

 

You need to study this to get up to speed. 

 

DISTRIBUTOR INDEXING

Firing Order

Renix dizzy indexing

  1. Remove the distributor cap and cut a “window” into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The “window” should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.
  2. Use Tip 12 first to guarantee you’re on #1 TDC.
  3. Install a ¾” wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the “0” degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.
  4. Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt Dizzy-clamp-2.jpg?resize=300%2C260and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
  5. Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.
  6. Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.
  7. If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o’clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block. A little tip here. Rather than use a dizzy gasket, use an o ring instead. NAPA #727-2024.Dizzy o ring
  8. Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.
  9. Turn the rotor to the 4 o’clock position.Dizzy tab cuts
  10. Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o’clock position.
  11. Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout “window”. Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .
  12. Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.
  13. Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.

HERE’S WHY DISTRIBUTOR INDEXING  IS SO IMPORTANT:

Distributor indexing explained:

For clarification though, that’s not a cam sensor inside the Renix dizzy. It’s there to fire the injectors sequentially with the firing order. You’ll never notice if it went bad because the ECU will try to “guess” where it is and does a heck of a job at it.

As for the “timing”, it is controlled by the ECU. Ever notice how wide the tip of the rotor is? Try and wrap your head around this:

When the ECU yells “Fire” to the ignition control module, where is the rotor in relationship to the dizzy terminal? Not to the terminal yet? Past the terminal too far?

What happens to the spark/secondary ignition strength when it has to jump the Grand Canyon in comparison to shooting from a rotor tip? Poor ignition performance, bucking, jerking, longer crank times.

The factory was aware of this and issued a Technical Service Bulletin on it. This Tip, #13, is a condensed version of that factory TSB. You wouldn’t believe how many we found out of whack when I worked at the dealership. Yours is probably messed up also. RARELY did we find one set accurately.

Use Tip 12 first to guarantee you’re on #1 TDC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...