Clutch Pedal with Bracket

[Cali Cruse]

 

Well it must have been bad juju on my part to even mention selling the Comanche because now the clutch pedal has decided to crap out and bust the master cylinder. Pushing clutch pedal is breaking the seal of the cylinder by swinging upwards, at least that's how the mechanic phrased it.

 

So now I've got a paperweight and no idea how to fix it. FCA doesn't make replacement part of clutch pedal with bracket, no junkyard has it. Neither Cherokee or Comanche. Would a Wrangler part work? I'm just at a loss.

 

We're certain it's the angle at which clutch pedal goes into the cylinder because we've replaced 2 of those already under warranty in scope of 6 months, but we were treating the symptom and not the underlying cause.

 

Truck is in Michigan and so any advice on shops that have dealt with this issue is welcome. It's either fix the existing part or needle in a haystack for a replacement.

 

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[Dzimm]

There are aftermarket options available that will work.  My truck has some aftermarket master on it and works fine, don't know what it is off the top of my head.

[Cali Cruse]

There are aftermarket options available that will work.  My truck has some aftermarket master on it and works fine, don't know what it is off the top of my head.

Thank you. I'm more focused on the clutch pedal with the bracket. We've replaced master twice and it's busted again, so I think changing that again will only kick the can down the road again. I think it's got to do with the angle of insertion of the clutch pedal.

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[mjeff87]

The whole pedal assembly is a one piece deal.  Best bet is junkyard to replace the whole thing.  If the weld broke on the pedal arm, or at the pivot, it can be repaired.

[Jeep Driver]

48 minutes ago, Cali Cruse said:

I think it's got to do with the angle of insertion of the clutch pedal

 

 

There is a simple solution for this......but first...........

 

You cannot make everyone guess what is wrong with the peddle and bracket, you must post a pic. 

[Cali Cruse]

 
 
There is a simple solution for this......but first...........
 
You cannot make everyone guess what is wrong with the peddle and bracket, you must post a pic. 

So that's a picture of the clutch pedal and rod that's going into the master cylinder. Basically no shop wants to work on this manual transmission truck and nowhere I can find a clutch pedal with bracket assembly. I don't even think it's the problem because something when clutch pedal is being pushed, is rupturing the master cylinder seal and causes that to fail.

Do we reinforce the seal? Anyway thanks. Hoping for help otherwise I got an expensive paperweight.

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[Eagle]

I don't see anything broken in that photo. I think the problem is your mechanic.

 

[Cali Cruse]

I was thinking that, but I took it to one transmission shop and all they kept on doing was hollerin', "it's thrashed, it's thrashed". Took it to another place and they replaced the master cylinder twice and still the issue exists. When I start the truck, I cannot get it into gear. Something is obviously not functioning

[Warren Mohler]

when it "ruptures the seal" does it leak into the cab of the truck?

[Eagle]

4 hours ago, Cali Cruse said:

I was thinking that, but I took it to one transmission shop and all they kept on doing was hollerin', "it's thrashed, it's thrashed". Took it to another place and they replaced the master cylinder twice and still the issue exists. When I start the truck, I cannot get it into gear. Something is obviously not functioning

 

Considering that nothing appears to be broken, bent, or out of place, I would really like an explanation of exactly what's wrong or broken, other than "It's thrashed."

 

Different master cylinders have different throw lengths. My guess is that they didn't get the correct master cylinder ... or they didn't install it correctly.

 

Not being able to get it in gear could be as simple as needing to bleed it. Hydraulic clutches can be a bear to bleed properly.

 

[schardein]

I have some experience with Jeep CJ and YJ hydraulic clutch pedal assemblies.  No experience with XJ/MJ assemblies.

 

But based off my experience, there should be a bracket that serves as a mount for the clutch master cylinder at the firewall, which also attaches to the pivot rod for the pedal.  This bracket not only serves to mount the clutch master cylinder, but reinforces the pedal hanger assembly.  I marked this bracket with a green "X".

 

It's difficult to see, but it kind of looks like that bracket isn't attached to the pedal pivot rod?  If one looks closely, you can see the bracket comes just above the pedal arm, and you can just barely make out a mounting hole, but it isn't attached to the rod, which is the nut just above it.

 

If that bracket isn't attached to the pivot rod, then in theory, when pressing the clutch pedal, the firewall could be flexing away from the pressure.  Likewise, the pedal assembly could be flexing away from the firewall.  This combination could result in less movement of the clutch master cylinder pushrod, reducing it's travel and therefore affecting clutch disengagement.

 

Possibly, the flexing could throw the angle of the pushrod off, resulting in seal failure at the clutch master cylinder.

 

CaliCruse, could you confirm if that bracket is attached to the pedal pivot?

[Jeep Driver]

12 hours ago, Cali Cruse said:

they replaced the master cylinder twice and still the issue exists

The solution.

 

As you depress the pedal the shaft does not go back and forth in the bore straight. 

Explained- With the pedal out, the shaft is in the 3oclock position, when you depress the pedal, the shaft is in the 2oclock position. On mine, I always got a clicking sound when depressed as the shaft bottomed out on the retainer at the end of the bore.

Problem caused- With the shaft at an angle, the single plunger does not sit square in the bore, causing wear, causing an eventual leak, allowing air into the system. 

Mopar- OEM master, Mopar, has two plungers, not a single plunger, keeping the plunger square to the bore. 

 

All aftermarket masters are S--t!, junk. 

 

Solution- Bend the shaft, similar to shown below, this will keep the shaft more inline with the bore, eliminating the click, minimizing wear. 

 

Find a Mopar system, the complete system. Bend the shaft. In a vise, with the shaft in the 12oclock position, take a hammer and lightly tap the shaft to point in the 1oclock position. Bend closer to the end of the shaft. 

This is one I tested the bend on before I bent the new one- Bend on new one is closer to the end. 

 

 

 

 

OEM Mopar style plunger/wipe. 

 

[Cali Cruse]

It isn't! And that's why, now that I think about it, shop was telling me that the firewall is flexing.

Would it make sense to print out what you folks are telling me and show it to the shop guys? I just don't know if they'll decipher it accurately. Or do I try a different shop. I know it's hard to answer, I'm just thinking out loud if you will...

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