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D30 buid-up ?'s


TNT
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If I sell my front HP D60 I will need to set-up my D30.

 

Here is my plan:

Non-disconnect HP D30

Spicer 4.10 gears with a TrueTrac(I will be using a 242 transfer case)

Beef the front cover

Truss the housing

Raise the upper and lower control arm mounts 3"(nothing below the axle tube)(improved angles-no drop brackets required)

Raised trackbar mount

Relocate/redesigned steering damper mount

WJ front brake/knuckle swap

Rotate the inner C's for proper caster/pinion angles

Weld braces one the inner C"s

U-bolt style yoke

Relocate/reinforce the spring mounts(moving the axle forward 1")(might be raised slightly)

HD spring retainers

3.5" bumpstops that bolt to the lower sping perch

Custom lower shock mounts located as low as possible(no BPE's)

Alloy axle shafts and HD u-joints

Axle tube seals to keep out dirt

 

How does this sound?

 

Did I miss anything?

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Why? It's an expensive turd.

 

I agree with you, it would be an expensive turd... In my other post about my 1 ton axles everyone seems to think the D30/D44 combo would be better.... :nuts:

 

It's that or this...

 

I have a HP D60 from about a '87 F350 DRW with 4.10 gears in great shape on hold for me at a nice price. It's about 76" wide with the DRW hubs that are on it.

 

For the rear I can get D70's or a 14 bolt's thats either 72" wide or 67" wide. I can also get a C&C DRW 63" wide 14 bolt.

 

Choice #1

 

Swap the hubs to SRW ones it is about 69" wide, then shorten the long side 5" so it would be 64" wide. This would be a great match for the C&C DRW 14 bolt. With this combo I would run 8" rims with about 4" of backspacing. It would wind up about 75"-76" wide with the tires.

 

Choice #2

 

Narrow the long side 5" so the axle is 71" wide. Then use a 72" D70 or a 14 bolt rear axle. For this combo I would run Hummer wheels. Overall width would be about 75"-77" wide with tires also.

 

Choice #3

 

Buy the HP D60, resell it and use the money to help build my non-disconnect D30 and rear D44.

 

What to do? This is my problem.....

 

I don't really wheel hard enough to need the one ton axles anymore but they would be sweet and they won't break.

 

I have a bad back so ride quaility is a big concern of mine. I'm trying to stay at about 6" of lift and am happy with 33x10.5's for street use for ride quaility. With ther one tons I would run a 37x12.50 or so and could live with the ride once the suspesion is dialed in.

 

I plan on reworking the front suspension either way.

 

If I stick with my D30 and my D44 my 33's will be my street tires and Q78X15's TSL's would be my trail tires.

 

If I run 1 ton axles I'll run 37"" tires on the trail and on the street. Cutting the fenders more to fit 37's with 6" of lift isn't a problem.

 

I'm kind of concerned about tickets thou. The lift law here is 5" so I'm already over that and the tires by law can be 4" in radius larger. That means about 35"-37" tires are max. The tires can stick out 2" max by law, so I would need some extra coverage if I go with the one tons.

 

It would cost me as much if not more to build up my D30 and D44. They would still be weaker and have little brakes.

 

So tell me what you think now... :cheers:

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those lift laws are bogus. the only thing that actually kind of moniter is how far you tires stick out, bet even that isn't monitered well.

 

On my XJ they checked bumper hieght once. They measured at the outer corner instead of the center... It was 29.5" and 30" is max. It sits at 32" on the MJ now. I'm not to worried about it, other then the fact that I work within a mile of thier sub station at I-94 and Hwy 20.

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those lift laws are bogus. the only thing that actually kind of moniter is how far you tires stick out, bet even that isn't monitered well.

 

On my XJ they checked bumper hieght once. They measured at the outer corner instead of the center... It was 29.5" and 30" is max. It sits at 32" on the MJ now. I'm not to worried about it, other then the fact that I work within a mile of thier sub station at I-94 and Hwy 20.

 

huh. never had that happen to me or my dads trucks and he had 40s and 44s.

 

i go to school at gateway in Racine so i go right past there.

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WHY?

 

If you really want something stronger, swap in a waggy 44. TNT Customs has a truss to make it an easy swap (not listed on the website, call Bob @ TNT). Yes you'll have to change bolt pattern on the front, but I'd rather run 2 different rims than spend all that time/money on a D30.

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If I go one ton I can sell my D44 to help offset the one ton axles price.

 

The more I check into thisit seems the one tons will be cheaper in the long run.

 

Maybe I'll swap in a NP208 transfer case instead for some added beef.

 

It would need a clocking ring to fit so I could have a flat belly pan too.

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WHY?

 

If you really want something stronger, swap in a waggy 44. TNT Customs has a truss to make it an easy swap (not listed on the website, call Bob @ TNT). Yes you'll have to change bolt pattern on the front, but I'd rather run 2 different rims than spend all that time/money on a D30.

 

I would narrow another HP D44 to waggy width long before I would go low pinion...(I have done this once 4 years ago) It would still need alloy axles and HD u-joints otherwise I might as well just keep my D30 since the u-joint strength is the same.

 

A built HP D44 is only slightly stronger then a well built HP D30. A LP D44 isn't much stronger then a HP D30 since it powers the coast side of the ring gear.

 

Besides I can build up a HP D60 for the same price if not less and it will be way stronger.

 

I'll build my own truss, I have all the steel/equipment I need and have done it before.

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those lift laws are bogus. the only thing that actually kind of moniter is how far you tires stick out, bet even that isn't monitered well.

 

On my XJ they checked bumper hieght once. They measured at the outer corner instead of the center... It was 29.5" and 30" is max. It sits at 32" on the MJ now. I'm not to worried about it, other then the fact that I work within a mile of thier sub station at I-94 and Hwy 20.

 

huh. never had that happen to me or my dads trucks and he had 40s and 44s.

 

i go to school at gateway in Racine so i go right past there.

 

He was hasseling me since I was in a road closed local traffic only area.

 

I haven't had any problems since then.

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TnT also has the truss for the D60 as well jamminz.gif

 

My truss will be hand made by me... TNT.... jamminz.gif

 

I have seen T&T's truss and it looks good.

 

Maybe I can get him to make me some deals since I'm TNT on most of the main boards for Jeeps. ;)

 

It would seem like a good deal for him and myself. I'd pimp his products if he cut me a break on price.

 

I build most of my stuff since I'm married with children(one is in college for pre-med)

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Build the 60... Run SRW hubs and cut down the long side about 5" to match the 14B. Shave both of them. You can turn down the ring gear about .188 without losing much strength and combine it with a nice hack off the bottom on both the axles. Clearance would be comparable to a stock D44. Then run whatever size tire makes you happy.

 

 

Then it's over-kill and the only failures you will have are maintenance items (ie, do your work and they won't happen).

 

 

No turd polishing here.

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Build the 60... Run SRW hubs and cut down the long side about 5" to match the 14B. Shave both of them. You can turn down the ring gear about .188 without losing much strength and combine it with a nice hack off the bottom on both the axles. Clearance would be comparable to a stock D44. Then run whatever size tire makes you happy.

 

 

Then it's over-kill and the only failures you will have are maintenance items (ie, do your work and they won't happen).

 

 

No turd polishing here.

 

Thats what I'm thinking. Why waste my money on a Dana turdy. :cheers:

 

I might be able to cut 6" off.

 

Suspension plan is a 3 link with a track bar. The single upper arm will be on the passenger side. I'll probably push the axle 1.5" to 2" forward.

 

This means the battery and airbox will be moved/changed. This will allow me to totally rework the inner fender and move the flares to the top body line on the fender. I plan on staying with 6"-7" of lift max. I want to allow as much up travel as possible.

 

The rear will be simple to do.

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A d30 isn't gonna stand up to Q78s, even if you polish it.

 

go find vetteboys buildup on pirate. He's got a 3 link just like you described. SOmeone evben put it up in a solidworks format.

 

I've studied vetteboys build and a bunch of others. I had a design planned for my XJ that is very similar that I will probaby use.

 

Q78's won't be large enough with the one ton axles. I'll probably go with about a 37-38" tire.

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Yeah, I've had plenty of people politely inform me about how poor my decision was. :roll: Doesn't matter what anyone says about their apparent "limitations", I love 'em and they've never been the limiting factor. Ever. Maybe I'm just not hardcore enough to have found the deficiencies. :dunno: :D

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Yeah, I've had plenty of people politely inform me about how poor my decision was. :roll: Doesn't matter what anyone says about their apparent "limitations", I love 'em and they've never been the limiting factor. Ever. Maybe I'm just not hardcore enough to have found the deficiencies. :dunno: :D

 

 

They work good as long as you aren't trying to do anything too stupid, and as long as you aren't crazy on the skinny. The ford design is at least proven road-safe, which is better than some of the aftermarket kits out there... I'm tempted to build a set, but if I can figure out a 3-link I'd rather go that route.

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