High2by Posted January 11, 2020 Author Share Posted January 11, 2020 Almost forgot...I added license plate LED lights to the bumper too. I didn't get to wire them in because of the rain but if I get the chance tomorrow I will. I have the factory harness but I don't want to cut or splice in it so I will probably just make a new one and keep the original if I ever go back to the factory step bumper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 I got the windows tinted this week because I really like the look of tinted windows. I'll take some pics this weekend if it doesn't rain. I got a new radio in for it too and hopefully I can get that put in. No, it's not a factory radio, it's an aftermarket but that's ok with me. My truck's not gonna be all original like many are even though I do like the look of them. Just curious, has anyone put in replacement LED dash lights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 Yes, I've put LEDs in my dashes, I like the white look of them, however, mine are not dimmable. Here's a list of lights needed (props to Don aka Hornbrod RIP) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 52 minutes ago, fiatslug87 said: Yes, I've put LEDs in my dashes, I like the white look of them, however, mine are not dimmable. Here's a list of lights needed (props to Don aka Hornbrod RIP) What a list. This is awesome! I need to find some dimmable LED's for the cluster. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 This morning wasn't a good morning for the MJ. When I went outside to leave for work it was 18*. It hasn't been that cold in a while. Anyway, Jeep fired right up no issues. Headed down the road and in less than a mile the temp gauge was up to 160 or so. Back story, when I got the truck it had the lights for the gauges and there was an aftermarket temp gauge mounted in the dash. The truck never ran over 160, ever. I just figured it had a 160* thermostat in it from the PO. I kept going and the gauge kept climbing. Once it hit 210 I turned around and headed back home because I knew something was wrong. I made it back home and when I pulled into my spot, something let go, steam and antifreeze was going every where. At this point I needed to get on to work so I jumped in the farm truck and headed on. I'm not sure what happened but all the antifreeze was coming from the drivers side. More back story, the PO had converted it from a closed system to an open system. It'll be dark when I get home plus 20* again so it'll be tomorrow or later before I can actually see what happened. My thought is the thermostat stuck closed then blew the lower hose out. I hope it's that simple.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 My power steering pump came in today. That was gonna be my next project to go through and update all the components. Now I’m just waiting on my ZJ gearbox to get rebuilt and sent back to me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 24, 2020 Author Share Posted January 24, 2020 Got another piece of the puzzle tonight. A new thermostat!!!! It’s the little things that mean a lot.....Now for good weather and no rain so I can get a work day on the ole MJ.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 You asked about the later front axle beam or WJ brakes. I vote WJ knuckles with the good brakes as well as a WJ dual diaphragm booster and master. I'm not sue what size wheels you have now, but the WJ front brakes might not take a 15 inch aluminum wheel due to clearance issues. Just something to consider. I have a set of WJ knuckles in storage for a future 2wd project. Keep up the good work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 26, 2020 Author Share Posted January 26, 2020 This morning was a good morning. Got the lower radiator hose replaced and put the new thermostat in. The temp gauge mows read correct. It runs right below 200* I have heat in the cab too, much more than I did have before. The old thermostat was a 195* but I didn’t think it was. It had two holes drilled it, I guess for air.My temp gauge runs normal.Not a good picture but you can see the gauge.Hopefully I’ll get more done tomorrow.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 I didn't get much done yesterday but I was able to "refresh" the ground behind the driver tail light and even ran a jumper wire down to the frame. I do have an issue with the reverse lights, the issue is, I don't have any. The bulbs are new on both sides but still nothing. I'm not even sure where to start. The NSS is good in the fact that the truck won't start in drive or reverse. Do the reverse lights originate there or somewhere else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 Does your fuse box have a 7.5amp fuse under the label of trans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 A dirty NSS can cause flaky reverse lights before it gets bad enough to prevent starting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 1 hour ago, Minuit said: A dirty NSS can cause flaky reverse lights before it gets bad enough to prevent starting. This could be the case but the lights haven't worked since I got the truck. Do they originate here? 2 hours ago, eaglescout526 said: Does your fuse box have a 7.5amp fuse under the label of trans? Good question, of hand, I don't know. I will check and see though. I take it that power to the lights runs through this fuse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 13 minutes ago, High2by said: Good question, of hand, I don't know. I will check and see though. I take it that power to the lights runs through this fuse? I know on the manual trans that's where the lights run into and I have popped that fuse several times before finding a bare wire touching the exhaust pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 24 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: I know on the manual trans that's where the lights run into and I have popped that fuse several times before finding a bare wire touching the exhaust pipe. 10-4. I got a new rear harness, thanks 500 MJ, because the PO hacked into the existing one to run trailer lights but I haven't had the chance to put it in. The "hack" job may be the culprit. The only rear lights affected are the reverse lights, all other lights work as they should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 1 hour ago, High2by said: This could be the case but the lights haven't worked since I got the truck. Do they originate here? It's the first place I would look. Here's the entire reverse lamp circuit from the '90 FSM, but it should be practically identical on an '89. The relevant part of this is circuit 75. That should be hot any time the trans is in reverse. Two ways to check it at the NSS. Unplug the NSS, and check resistance between pins A and E of the connector with the trans in reverse. If there is high resistance or an open circuit, clean the NSS. Otherwise, look for a wiring break somewhere else. The connector can also be backprobed while still plugged in - in that case, you'd be looking for 12V on pin E while in reverse. You could also go straight to the rear harness and check there. Anything labeled "75" should be hot with the trans in reverse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 Does your fuse box have a 7.5amp fuse under the label of trans? I was able to check the fuse and even though the fuse is technically good meaning current will pass through it, the power side socket is burned up. Almost gone. There is enough left that the fuse does make contact but it can’t be good.I blew the image up so it’s not the clearest. How in the world to I fix that?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 You could also go straight to the rear harness and check there. Anything labeled "75" should be hot with the trans in reverse. I’ll start at the back and work my way forward. Thanks for these schematics. I’ll use them to find the problem.....hopefully.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 Take the fuse block apart and replace the clips. Or do what I did until I have a second car and put aluminum foil on one of the fuse prongs and set it in the spot and see if it makes better contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 35 minutes ago, High2by said: I was able to check the fuse and even though the fuse is technically good meaning current will pass through it, the power side socket is burned up. Almost gone. There is enough left that the fuse does make contact but it can’t be good. I blew the image up so it’s not the clearest. How in the world to I fix that? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yeah... that's not good. If you don't fix that, it'll be giving you headaches for years. Are any of the other terminals damaged like this? The terminals are GM Pak-Con terminals. Since the truck is an auto, the fusebox hasn't been melted by clutch fluid, so you should be just fine replacing the individual terminals inside. There are a number of online sellers selling these terminals in the various types used by our fuseboxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 Well, this was another bad morning for the MJ. When I left the house this morning the Volt gauge was a little low but I figured with the fog and the dampness it was still good to go. I got a couple miles from the house and the gauge had dropped to 9 and was playing in the red area on the gauge. I stopped and check the battery cables and the wires to the alternator and I couldn't find any issues with them so I turned around and headed back home, turning off everything I didn't have to have. I'm guessing the alternator is gone but I will need to test it to make sure. As far as the fuse issue from last night, I didn't do anything else to the truck but pull that fuse then put it back in the block, so what are the odds that that had anything to do with the alternator???? I'm guessing none???? If I do need an alternator any suggestions on which one? I'm not a fan of the rebuilt ones at a box store. I do have a local guy that can rebuild it that has always done a good job but the time frame isn't desirable. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 13 hours ago, Minuit said: Are any of the other terminals damaged like this? I missed this last night. I will check all the others and see if any are damaged because I'm not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dammerung Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 Well, this was another bad morning for the MJ. When I left the house this morning the Volt gauge was a little low but I figured with the fog and the dampness it was still good to go. I got a couple miles from the house and the gauge had dropped to 9 and was playing in the red area on the gauge. I stopped and check the battery cables and the wires to the alternator and I couldn't find any issues with them so I turned around and headed back home, turning off everything I didn't have to have. I'm guessing the alternator is gone but I will need to test it to make sure. As far as the fuse issue from last night, I didn't do anything else to the truck but pull that fuse then put it back in the block, so what are the odds that that had anything to do with the alternator???? I'm guessing none???? If I do need an alternator any suggestions on which one? I'm not a fan of the rebuilt ones at a box store. I do have a local guy that can rebuild it that has always done a good job but the time frame isn't desirable. Thoughts? Maybe your regulator is shot. My alternator has the same issue and barely makes enough to charge my battery at a decent rate.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 4 minutes ago, Dammerung said: Maybe your regulator is shot. My alternator has the same issue and barely makes enough to charge my battery at a decent rate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I thought it had an internal regulator, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High2by Posted January 29, 2020 Author Share Posted January 29, 2020 Santa came early or late, I guess it depends on how you look at it.New lock cylinders.New wiper stalk.New outside lighting.New inside lighting.New inside trim pieces.Keep in mind “new” means different things to different people.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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