Warren Mohler Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 Did you do anything to your truck right before this started? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 Looking closer at C103 photo, wire colors don't line up. Seem to be C105 (Engine to Alternator), same as C103. Buried under that connector in photo is there another 6 pin connector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob89manche Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 On 1/11/2020 at 8:58 PM, Warren Mohler said: Did you do anything to your truck right before this started? Changed the oil, drive to a buddies, came home. No problem. Next morning parked at work and it wouldn’t shut off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob89manche Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 On 1/11/2020 at 9:13 PM, Ωhm said: Looking closer at C103 photo, wire colors don't line up. Seem to be C105 (Engine to Alternator), same as C103. Buried under that connector in photo is there another 6 pin connector? I have ones that are similar in shape and configuration, but not with each of the 6 ports with a wire. (Some with 3, some with 4) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Major blunder on my part, not paying attention to wire colors, wasted both time and energy. That's C103. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob89manche Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 22 minutes ago, Ωhm said: Major blunder on my part, not paying attention to wire colors, wasted both time and energy. That's C103. Dude, nice catch! Now with the real c103 DC’d I’ve got infinite resistance showing on the DMM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Engine Control Harness shows good. Engine Harness now carries the problem. One good things is the RED wire should be short and only run to the Starter Relay (Fusible Link G (ORN)). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob89manche Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 2 minutes ago, Ωhm said: Engine Control Harness shows good. Engine Harness now carries the problem. One good things is the RED wire should be short and only run to the Starter Relay (Fusible Link G (ORN)). Right. Previously I have disconnected fuse links from the starter relay to try and isolate the problem. I found that dc’ing the dual green/orange link to individual red wires and green link split to 2 red wires stops the flow of power. Too dark to mess with tonight, but will start looking at/replacing fuse link G tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Its your YELLOW wire (C103_E) touching that Fuse Link circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Need to take the Ignition Switch out of the picture. As of now, we should have continuity on the Engine Harness side between C103_B (RED) and C103_E (YEL). Disconnect the IGN SW connectors. Does continuity still exist between C103_B and C103_E? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob89manche Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 7 hours ago, Ωhm said: Need to take the Ignition Switch out of the picture. As of now, we should have continuity on the Engine Harness side between C103_B (RED) and C103_E (YEL). Disconnect the IGN SW connectors. Does continuity still exist between C103_B and C103_E? Help me out with the terminology “engine harness side”. I’m taking it as the side of c103 that leads to the majority of the engine wiring, passing behind the radiator and on to the other side of the engine bay as opposed to the side that leads to the diagnostic ports. Am I correct in this interpretation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 13 minutes ago, Bob89manche said: Help me out with the terminology “engine harness side”. I’m taking it as the side of c103 that leads to the majority of the engine wiring, passing behind the radiator and on to the other side of the engine bay as opposed to the side that leads to the diagnostic ports. Am I correct in this interpretation? Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob89manche Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 1 hour ago, Ωhm said: Yes Interesting. Reading infinite resistance constantly From that connection. No change when ignition switch is removed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob89manche Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 I’ve already replaced the ign switch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 8 minutes ago, Bob89manche said: I’ve already replaced the ign switch This has got to be the source of your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 1 minute ago, Bob89manche said: I’ve already replaced the ign switch Seen that in the first post. Still can buy new junk. When tracing wires all components (internal shorts) should be removed. 7 minutes ago, Bob89manche said: Interesting. Reading infinite resistance constantly From that connection. No change when ignition switch is removed A lot of wire wiggling going on near C103. Keep DVOM connected between C103_B (RED) and C103_E (YEL) and wiggle wires, look for continuity. Inspect wires. Follow YEL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Mohler Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 47 minutes ago, Ωhm said: Still can buy new junk Please forgive me for butting in, seems like just about everything has been covered. This has happened 3 times to me in last 10 years, first 2 times could not remove key, last time was able to remove key with engine running, all times it was JUNK lock cylinders. I am on #4 in 20 years. Does it keep running if ign. switch is removed from column and worked by hand? Could it be the rack in column is "out of time" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob89manche Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 50 minutes ago, Ωhm said: Seen that in the first post. Still can buy new junk. When tracing wires all components (internal shorts) should be removed. A lot of wire wiggling going on near C103. Keep DVOM connected between C103_B (RED) and C103_E (YEL) and wiggle wires, look for continuity. Inspect wires. Follow YEL. Did the wiggle with ign switch unplugged and also plugged in. No change. Infinite resistance. Followed yellow down to Passenger side headlight. Might need to check the long run in front of radiator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob89manche Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 4 minutes ago, Warren Mohler said: Please forgive me for butting in, seems like just about everything has been covered. This has happened 3 times to me in last 10 years, first 2 times could not remove key, last time was able to remove key with engine running, all times it was JUNK lock cylinders. I am on #4 in 20 years. Does it keep running if ign. switch is removed from column and worked by hand? Could it be the rack in column is "out of time" I’ve been wondering if my lock cylinder connection to the arm that interacts with the ign switch might be faulty. It just seems like more of an electro issue than mechanical at this point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 The real test now is to reconnect all disconnected connectors and try it again. See if engine shuts off using the key. 9 minutes ago, Warren Mohler said: Could it be the rack in column is "out of time" There is some science to Ignition Switch replacement. I looked for DIY but couldn't find anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Mohler Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Yeh this is tough not being there, switches are a bugger and need to be adjusted, if I remember right they slide on column. I would hook EVERYTHING back up and start over. Work switch by hand off of column to see what happens. I will say I always HATED working on these columns but seemed to get every job that came into shop TS switch,wiper, cruise, horn, loose tilt bolts not much fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob89manche Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 I went back through the ignition switch. And cylinder. Both have been replaced within the month. Have the lock cylinder all the way off and the switch all the way in the same direction. Popped the lever hook in the switch, made sure the lever arm is taught and tightened down the bolts and hibeam assembly on top. All tight and lined up. It just screams electrical to me. As soon as the pos terminal is connected I’ve got power to all relays and ignition. The only thing the lock cylinder changes is the radio and cigarette lighter power supply at this point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob89manche Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 I didn’t have the batter connected when I messed with the ign switch, but even if it’s completely unplugged the ign system still is energized when battery is connected Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 18 minutes ago, Bob89manche said: It just screams electrical to me. Remove both battery cables. Remove all Fuse Links from the starter relay and separate each one. Take continuity between each Link and D2_4. Let's see if we can determine which Link is shorted to Ign Sw feed (I1). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob89manche Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 29 minutes ago, Ωhm said: Remove both battery cables. Remove all Fuse Links from the starter relay and separate each one. Take continuity between each Link and D2_4. Let's see if we can determine which Link is shorted to Ign Sw feed (I1). This is actually how I started this. With less direction and record keeping, obviously. Will get back with results. Thanks again everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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