Parts Recommendations for Ax15 swap

[Blaine.D]

Currently trying to research parts for swapping in an Ax15 and wanted to see if what brands are recommended more than others for clutch relating parts. The Ax15 I plan on in swapping is an 93 with the external slave cylinder bell housing swap.Below is a list of parts that I need help with recommendations and what I am thinking about thinking for them.

Flywheel- LuK LFW194

Flywheel bolts- ARP (146-2801)

Release Bearing Crown Automotive 53008342 ??

Clutch Kit LuK 05065

Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assembly  ???

Any help and advice is appreciated 

 

 

 

[phatton]

I'm in the process of doing this swap .  I got a 1996 Cherokee with a 4.0 engine and  5speed manual.  I pulled the pedals, trans, and transfer case from the 96 and will put them in my 90 Comanche which also has a 4.0 engine.  The 90 Comanche is a Renix controlled system which is different from the 96 Cherokee.  I had to get a manual flywheel for a 90 jeep to ensure the magnet for the crank position sensor was in the right spot.  While I was at it I got a new crank position sensor.  The 96 manual trans has a 23 spline output shaft. the 90 Comanche uses a 21 spline shaft.  I could have used the 96 transfer case which mates up to the 96 trans but the 96 Cherokee uses a solid axel front drive shaft and the 90 has our beloved split front axel shaft controlled by a vacuum system.  I took the main shaft and gears from the 96 transfer case and put them in the 90 case.  Now I have a vacuum controlled transfer case with a 23 spline main shaft that will bolt to the 96 trans.  You will also need a pilot bearing that will fit your Comanche engine and your Ax15 - there was a recent post giving the part number of this bearing.  I'm not certain if the transmission cross member for the Comanche will fit the new trans - I pulled the crossmember from the Cherokee just in case.  I got my flywheel, clutch kit, trans mount, pilot bearing and clutch master and slave from Rock Auto.  One other point jeep recommended and used 70w-90 gl-5 gear oil in their ax15 trans.  The high sulfur content of this gear oil can eat the ax15 trans brass synchronizers.  I have my trans at the shop being checked out right now.  Hope this helps

[MeanLemons]

41 minutes ago, phatton said:

I'm in the process of doing this swap .  I got a 1996 Cherokee with a 4.0 engine and  5speed manual.  I pulled the pedals, trans, and transfer case from the 96 and will put them in my 90 Comanche which also has a 4.0 engine.  The 90 Comanche is a Renix controlled system which is different from the 96 Cherokee.  I had to get a manual flywheel for a 90 jeep to ensure the magnet for the crank position sensor was in the right spot.  While I was at it I got a new crank position sensor.  The 96 manual trans has a 23 spline output shaft. the 90 Comanche uses a 21 spline shaft.  I could have used the 96 transfer case which mates up to the 96 trans but the 96 Cherokee uses a solid axel front drive shaft and the 90 has our beloved split front axel shaft controlled by a vacuum system.  I took the main shaft and gears from the 96 transfer case and put them in the 90 case.  Now I have a vacuum controlled transfer case with a 23 spline main shaft that will bolt to the 96 trans.  You will also need a pilot bearing that will fit your Comanche engine and your Ax15 - there was a recent post giving the part number of this bearing.  I'm not certain if the transmission cross member for the Comanche will fit the new trans - I pulled the crossmember from the Cherokee just in case.  I got my flywheel, clutch kit, trans mount, pilot bearing and clutch master and slave from Rock Auto.  One other point jeep recommended and used 70w-90 gl-5 gear oil in their ax15 trans.  The high sulfur content of this gear oil can eat the ax15 trans brass synchronizers.  I have my trans at the shop being checked out right now.  Hope this helps

You can’t swap the internals of the transfer case... the gear cut on the teeth are different.  They changed it in mid-1994.   

[87MJTIM]

Blaine - What year is the AX15 from?  The reason is that the trans input shaft tips changed sizes.  Early AX15 (89 to 94{?}) have 1/2" input shaft tips.  Later models have a 3/4" tip.  If yours is the later model, then order a pilot bushing for a 75 CJ5 with a 304 engine.  The outer diameter and inner diameters will fit your 4.0.  If your AX15 came with the external slave cyl, then it is most likely the 3/4" tip.

 

As Phatton says, the trans out put shaft is 23 splines, so the tcase behind your BA10 won't fit.  You could do what he did or just get the matching tcase that was with your AX15.  Additionally, you will need the tcase shift linkage that was with the AX15, unless you go with aftermarket linkage.

 

The vacuum controlled 4wd can be bypassed.  See the CAD elimination in the help section.

 

Get the cross member for the AX15.  Your current cross member will not work on the new trans.

The front and rear drive shafts will work with your swap.

 

You should not need to change your flywheel.  The FW goes to the engine computer not the trans.

 

Get a clutch kit for the trans, especially if you have the later trans.  First, I had kept the pressure plate that was with the BA10.  It would shift, but it never felt right.  Later, I swapped the PP and it shifts better.

 

I purchased the All-in-One pre-bled hydro clutch master slave cylinder kits sold on Rockauto.

[Blaine.D]

22 minutes ago, 87MJTIM said:

Blaine - What year is the AX15 from?  The reason is that the trans input shaft tips changed sizes.  Early AX15 (89 to 94{?}) have 1/2" input shaft tips.  Later models have a 3/4" tip.  If yours is the later model, then order a pilot bushing for a 75 CJ5 with a 304 engine.  The outer diameter and inner diameters will fit your 4.0.  If your AX15 came with the external slave cyl, then it is most likely the 3/4" tip.

 

As Phatton says, the trans out put shaft is 23 splines, so the tcase behind your BA10 won't fit.  You could do what he did or just get the matching tcase that was with your AX15.  Additionally, you will need the tcase shift linkage that was with the AX15, unless you go with aftermarket linkage.

 

The vacuum controlled 4wd can be bypassed.  See the CAD elimination in the help section.

 

Get the cross member for the AX15.  Your current cross member will not work on the new trans.

The front and rear drive shafts will work with your swap.

 

You should not need to change your flywheel.  The FW goes to the engine computer not the trans.

 

Get a clutch kit for the trans, especially if you have the later trans.  First, I had kept the pressure plate that was with the BA10.  It would shift, but it never felt right.  Later, I swapped the PP and it shifts better.

 

I purchased the All-in-One pre-bled hydro clutch master slave cylinder kits sold on Rockauto.

The Ax15 as told to me from the guy  I bought it from came out of a 93 Cherokee.  I found a junk Cherokee with an  Ax15 in the junkyard with the external slave cylinder and got the bearing retainer, bell housing, crossmember, and trans mount bracket.  For the transfer case the same guy give me a good deal for both the transmission and transfer case. The plan is to perform a temporary CAD delete found in the write ups and later in a few months swap in later Xj one piece axle shaft. As well as doing Azzy's design work shifter lineage.  Flywheel I may or may not replaced depends on if I can find someone local to work on it. The clutch i do plan on getting a clutch kit. Also which all in one pre bled did you go with on yours? 

[87MJTIM]

41 minutes ago, Blaine.D said:

The Ax15 as told to me from the guy  I bought it from came out of a 93 Cherokee.  I found a junk Cherokee with an  Ax15 in the junkyard with the external slave cylinder and got the bearing retainer, bell housing, crossmember, and trans mount bracket.  For the transfer case the same guy give me a good deal for both the transmission and transfer case. The plan is to perform a temporary CAD delete found in the write ups and later in a few months swap in later Xj one piece axle shaft. As well as doing Azzy's design work shifter lineage.  Flywheel I may or may not replaced depends on if I can find someone local to work on it. The clutch i do plan on getting a clutch kit. Also which all in one pre bled did you go with on yours? 

Cross referencing part numbers on Rockauto, suggests that Jeep switched to the external slaves in 94.  Be sure to measure the input shaft tip.  If it has 3/4" tip, get a pilot bearing/bushing for the one I reference above.  If 1/2", then you could use your existing pilot bearing/bushing.

 

As for the clutch hydro master slave kit, you could get this https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1382128&cc=1180213&jsn=883&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86%2BAYIh8MwADrWeNyZVx6scY4p8ZP7Qz6OBF7E3DiJ%2BXUqCTbp2UDPUPAgcw0uTzDaZroiTRTGdgRNnTw7sW0VoJiMl9DtHJjd5RywoKEvIex8Iwlitv2Ppq2R6C10nrGvw%2BoWtQR7PTNvRVma0Bd7nhd3ZCJhXf5K6Y8vUem3Mne8RmvrnZ4kijFqWx4lZGtDX8hpfOp%2FxEeNEzQJbJAQmTb4H0u6oBlOL2xFNKMygr9vvwyErbrsCvAMKRfvxaW08WVuRaatHxaMubJRJTntSkcctrBJ5M2G4gvbt

 

Since you are going to the external slave system ( good plan), get a clutch kit for a 94+ XJ.  It will have the proper pressure plate and release bearing.

 

 

[Blaine.D]

Ok I just checked my input shaft and it is 0.75. Thanks for the tip on the pilot bushing .  So far in my research I been putting in 96 Jeep Cherokee when I looking at parts(except for the flywheel- used 88 Jeep Comanche). Just curious @87MJTIM what did you go with for the clutch kit? I’m currently thinking a LuK 05901 or AMS automotive 05065SR100. 

 

[87MJTIM]

I got LUK 05065.  This one is listed in the "Daily Driver" section on Rockauto.

 

Your LUK number is listed in the Heavy Duty section.

[Blaine.D]

1 minute ago, 87MJTIM said:

I got LUK 05065.  This one is listed in the "Daily Driver" section on Rockauto.

 

Your LUK number is listed in the Heavy Duty section.

Ok thanks for the suggestion . Yeah I was kinda considering doing a Heavy Duty clutch set but also haven’t rule out a standard replacement.

[Blaine.D]

@87MJTIM Got another question for you that I’m want to double check that I got the right info.  Did you have to do any modifications to get the clutch master cylinder to fit? I don’t think that’s the case but somewhere I reading  on one forum that someone was saying they had to modify the firewall to get the master cylinder to fit.

[87MJTIM]

19 minutes ago, Blaine.D said:

@87MJTIM Got another question for you that I’m want to double check that I got the right info.  Did you have to do any modifications to get the clutch master cylinder to fit? I don’t think that’s the case but somewhere I reading  on one forum that someone was saying they had to modify the firewall to get the master cylinder to fit.

That would only apply if you were to use a master cylinder for a 98+ XJ.  Look at one on Rockauto and you will see the diff.  The mounting bolts are in a diff position than earlier master cylinders.

 

The one I showed is plug-n-play

[Blaine.D]

3 minutes ago, 87MJTIM said:

That would only apply if you were to use a master cylinder for a 98+ XJ.  Look at one on Rockauto and you will see the diff.  The mounting bolts are in a diff position than earlier master cylinders.

 

The one I showed is plug-n-play

I was thinking that was the case. Thanks for clearing that up for me.

[Blaine.D]

On researching into the Luk 05065,  the release bearing has a plastic material for the surface that rides on the bearing retainer. Can anyone that have used this kit tell me about your experience with it and did you get another throw out bearing or used the one included in the kit. From the reviews on Amazon is the included one is trash and suggest getting an all metal one while there is a few forum threads that said that the kit one is better.

 

[1989commanche]

Yes I second that. Get the all metal throw out bearing. When I first got my Comanche the throw out bearing went out. I bought the kit at auto zone that came with everything. Swapped out disc pressure plate and bearing. Worked great for a year. Then the cheap plastic throwout went out. Swapped it under warranty. That one crapped out a year and two weeks later. So I went in search of a metal based one. It is still going strong 6 or seven years later. 

[JMO413]

The NOS one I purchased had a plastic base. It's looks almost identical to the LUK one that came in the kit. I also purchased an aluminum bodied one when I did my clutch. I could not get the lines to fit into it though. The plastic LUK one comes with the lines installed like the OEM.

NOS I bought of f a dealers shelf.

I would have loved to use the centric if the lines would have worked. They would slide in but wouldn't seat and allow the retainer to be installed.

[mjeff87]

14 hours ago, JMO413 said:

The NOS one I purchased had a plastic base. It's looks almost identical to the LUK one that came in the kit. I also purchased an aluminum bodied one when I did my clutch. I could not get the lines to fit into it though. The plastic LUK one comes with the lines installed like the OEM.

NOS I bought of f a dealers shelf.

 

I would have loved to use the centric if the lines would have worked. They would slide in but wouldn't seat and allow the retainer to be installed.

 

Do yourself a favor OP.......before you install your TOB, you see those cheap little "u bolt/clips" that hold the lines into the body?  Yeah, toss them and replace with the same diameter cotter pins.  I've had the pleasure of one of those clips popping out within 100 miles of a new installation, and there's at least one other member on here that had the same problem also.  It's really not fun having to pull the whole trans back off again after just installing it.

[87MJTIM]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but JMO is showing pictures of the internal slave/throw-out bearing.  The OP is converting to an external slave cylinder.  The TOB is completely different.

[mjeff87]

Ooops....right there in the very first post, too.  You are correct Tim.  Sorry OP, carry on...

[Blaine.D]

You guys are good if I wasn’t lucky at the junkyard 2 weeks ago I would be doing the internal slave cylinder.

[Big Dan]

BLUF - run it.

 

The luk throw out bearing is fine.  That whole "ITS GOT PLASTIC" is completely blown out of proportion.  Theres lots of info from Jerry Bransford (a TJ guru) about the luk bearings.

[JMO413]

On 12/16/2019 at 7:59 AM, 87MJTIM said:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but JMO is showing pictures of the internal slave/throw-out bearing.  The OP is converting to an external slave cylinder.  The TOB is completely different.

Yep I missed the external slave part just saw 93 AX-15