OldSch88L Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 Hey guys! My Comanche is finally on the road after finishing up the 4x4 swap, so today I went to get an alignment done since everything was out of whack. Thing is, at city speeds, it wanders even though it's aligned, and no play anywere in the suspension. The mechanic said he could not get the caster in the ballpark probably because it's lifted. Problem is, I have no idea what height lift I have since I bought the truck like that, and the previous owner can't remember either... Looks at least 3", with stock UCAs, but the lowers look aftermarket since they're tubular and not stamped steel, and have a kink in them. What would be best to correct he geometry? The truck used to be 2wd, and included is a photo as it is with the lift, and for reference, it sits on 31's. Thanks a lot!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 Either will work, drop brackets will ride better. Doing both adjustable arms and drop brackets will work the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 I gotta ask since the knowledge of our old trucks seems to be getting rarer theses days, but does your alignment shop know HOW to adjust the caster? also, there is a thread i the link in my sig that will show you how to measure the ride height and compare to factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeeptec1 Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 I gotta ask since the knowledge of our old trucks seems to be getting rarer theses days, but does your alignment shop know HOW to adjust the caster? also, there is a thread i the link in my sig that will show you how to measure the ride height and compare to factory. The alignment shop has no clue how to set caster. Where the lower control arms mount to the frame there are 2 13mm nuts on the back side. Loosen the rear lower control arm bolts. Loosen the 2 13mm nuts and there are shims that fit up in there to set the caster. Easy way to get a good estimate on how much lift you have. Measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender flare if you still have them. My 88 Comanche measured 18 inches stock19 in the rear. With a 3 inch lift it is 21 front. 22 rear. I’ve run drop brackets on Cherokee’s with good results. I found the ride improved with drop brackets and the flex was better. Note the brackets do hang down a little more than a long arm so they will hit when crawling large rocks.also long arm will out flex the drop bracket set up. Also if your doing adjustable control arm do uppers and lowers. Most companies tell you set the lower arms 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer than stock or a spec they determined is good. Then set caster with the upper arms. There is a lot here hope this helps.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 I agree with drop brackets and arms, but if you really are only at 3 inches, you probably don't need the drop brackets. Anything over 3 and I say absolutely yes, especially if you want it to ride good. Core4X4 makes a set of adjustable upper and lower control arms that are fairly affordable and very beefy. Also, you can order them in several colors. They also make an adjustable trac bar, but again, at 3 inches, you probably don't need it. The adjustable arms will allow you to set your caster over the factory adjustment, which I found to not really be enough even at 1 inch over stock. Again, most shops won't go through the hassle of adjusting it, even with adjustable arms, as it takes unbolting the arms at one end to adjust them. Call around to different places to find someone who knows lifted Jeeps. It might cost more due to the labor to adjust them, but it will be right in the end..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 I assume the alignment shop gave you a printout of the end specs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSch88L Posted July 25, 2019 Author Share Posted July 25, 2019 1 hour ago, Pete M said: I assume the alignment shop gave you a printout of the end specs? Nah! Went back to look at it, and I only got a bill, no spec sheet Thanks to everyone for the help!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 adjusting the caster is something you can do with basic tools and a bubble angle finder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted July 27, 2019 Share Posted July 27, 2019 On 7/25/2019 at 6:13 PM, Pete M said: adjusting the caster is something you can do with basic tools and a bubble angle finder. How does one use a bubble angle finder to determine caster? I know the principle of caster, and how it is set, but I don't see how you can attach a level to anything that is parallel to the centerlines of the two balljoint studs to measure the angle. Can you explain, please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted July 27, 2019 Share Posted July 27, 2019 45 minutes ago, AZJeff said: How does one use a bubble angle finder to determine caster? I know the principle of caster, and how it is set, but I don't see how you can attach a level to anything that is parallel to the centerlines of the two balljoint studs to measure the angle. Can you explain, please? I don't' agree with this crap but this is what people claim to do. You get the pinion angle right an the caster will follow. And the only way to do that is with adjustable uppers and lowers......you can also push your axle out where is belongs too. Oh......and..........none of the drop bracket crap for me either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 27, 2019 Share Posted July 27, 2019 yup, it's super easy. caster is the relative angle of the ball joints to vertical, and the tops/bottoms of the Cs (or balljoints) are essentially perpendicular to the balljoint line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 I havent been on here as much as I used to, so I'm catching up a little. While doing my 6 inch lift, I set the axle tubes on jackstands front and rear, so full weight is on the axles with the wheels off and they are all set at the same height as if tires were mounted. Then using the yellow tool shown above setting on top of the upper ball joint, I set the caster to spec which I think is 5-7 degrees positive. In this manner i could unhook one adjustable arm at a time and adjust it and reconnect and then do the other side. Its been a year or so since I did that and its been driving great with no issues. Once you get caster adjusted, then youll need to set toe again, assuming you don't have crossover steering. If you have stock steering, any caster movement or camber movement with change the toe setting. So do caster first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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