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What is this thing and why is there coolant leaking out where the screw is


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Just changed my oil (shell Rotella T6 5w-40 for those curious) and when i started it up after i noticed it was dripping a ton from where that little screw is it seems like. Admittedly I'm not sure what this is or why coolant would be leaking out of it, any suggestions?

20190629_172819.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Strokermjcomanche said:

Heater valve , because it's bad . 

 

Either replace it or run 97+ Cherokee heater hoses and run it without the heater valve 

Thats exactly what my dad just told me two seconds ago lol, thank you I'm gonna be removing it entirely 

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The heater control valve exists to cut flow to the heater core when the temperature control is in the full cold position. The end result is slightly lower cab temperatures (due to there not being a heater core full of hot coolant just behind the dash) and a drop in A/C vent temperatures of as much as 7 degrees Fahrenheit. If you don't have A/C or don't care about a slightly warmer cab, throw the valve in the trash and plug the vacuum line to it.

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18 minutes ago, Minuit said:

The heater control valve exists to cut flow to the heater core when the temperature control is in the full cold position. The end result is slightly lower cab temperatures (due to there not being a heater core full of coolant just behind the dash) and a drop in A/C vent temperatures of as much as 7 degrees Fahrenheit. If you don't have A/C or don't care about a slightly warmer cab, throw the valve in the trash and plug the vacuum line to it.

I live in arizona and have no floor insulation so heat is my middle name, I'm gonna chuck it as it brings nothing to the table for me but leaks 

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1 minute ago, Ωhm said:

Don't complain about loss of A/C cooling then.

Ac wasnt very good to begin with, like i said the odds are stacked against me and i end up soaked in sweat when I reach my destination anyway lol 

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There are mechanical valves you can replace it with. One type can be operated from the cabin with a cable, like a manual choke control. The other type you open or close from under the hood. Open for winter, closed for summer. No big deal.

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8 minutes ago, Pirate_Staz said:

Ac wasnt very good to begin with, like i said the odds are stacked against me and i end up soaked in sweat when I reach my destination anyway lol 

What?! You have AC? And it’s not working?! I’m jealous that you have AC(I’ll get it soon). Damn, I’d get that fixed in a heart beat if that was me. Chrysler still has those control valves new. But come the winter time, you’ll want that heater core. 

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5 minutes ago, Eagle said:

There are mechanical valves you can replace it with. One type can be operated from the cabin with a cable, like a manual choke control. The other type you open or close from under the hood. Open for winter, closed for summer. No big deal.

Now that might be a better option

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4 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

What?! You have AC? And it’s not working?! I’m jealous that you have AC(I’ll get it soon). Damn, I’d get that fixed in a heart beat if that was me. Chrysler still has those control valves new. But come the winter time, you’ll want that heater core. 

It doesnt work very well, no tint, the flooring and trans housing has no insulation, the windows don't seal perfectly, A/C on isnt much different from A/C off. I didnt buy an MJ for the comfortability, otherwise i woulda kept my tacoma lol.

 

Edit: to add to this, i have no boot on my shifter so tons of heat just comes out of that hole on the trans tunnel

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13 minutes ago, Eagle said:

There are mechanical valves you can replace it with. One type can be operated from the cabin with a cable, like a manual choke control. The other type you open or close from under the hood. Open for winter, closed for summer. No big deal.

Is this what youre talking about?

Screenshot_20190629-182510_Samsung Internet.jpg

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1 minute ago, Pirate_Staz said:

Both, literally just metal flooring and a bench seat in there. The floor boot is ripped 

I believe JMO found an acceptable Chrysler replacement floor boot for the TJ he made fit. I’m sure there’s aftermarket console boots. But those boots will help a little with the heat but if there’s no insulation under that carpet, yeah you are kinda hosed with heat. 

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Just now, eaglescout526 said:

I believe JMO found an acceptable Chrysler replacement floor boot for the TJ he made fit. I’m sure there’s aftermarket console boots. But those boots will help a little with the heat but if there’s no insulation under that carpet, yeah you are kinda hosed with heat. 

I don't even have carpet either, I'm bare bones over here haha

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1 minute ago, eaglescout526 said:

Oh boy. Alight. Chalk that up for two MJs in AZ that are portable toaster ovens. 

here's an older pic, only thing thats changed is that its much cleaner now. But yea AC doesnt really matter when youre getting cooked alive from the floor. Ive tried looking for upholstery places to get some insulation and carpet but everyone acts like I'm crazy for suggesting it or something. Guess ill have to do it myself eventually 

20190629_183724.jpg

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Insulation shouldn't be a problem to cut and put in yourself. Plenty of DIYs and ideas for that. I think the original vendor for the MJ carpet still makes carpet for our trucks. Someone may have the link to them. Anyways this thread got way off track. 

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Just now, eaglescout526 said:

Insulation shouldn't be a problem to cut and put in yourself. Plenty of DIYs and ideas for that. I think the original vendor for the MJ carpet still makes carpet for our trucks. Someone may have the link to them. Anyways this thread got way off track. 

Yup, i think I'm gonna go with eagles idea and put a manual mechanical one in that way i can still have heat and A/C but also don't have to worry about it failing on me or restricting flow

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1 hour ago, Pirate_Staz said:

Is this what youre talking about?

Screenshot_20190629-182510_Samsung Internet.jpg

 

That's it. If you don't want to bother with the cable, just install it and open or close it from under the hood when the season changes.

 

That valve was the factory heater valve in all AMC cars in the 1960s and 1970s. It's variable volume, so with the cable that's what controlled the amount of heat you got. Full open ==> full heat. Throttle it back for less flow to produce less heat.

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